22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
The second edition of the Compendium of Rose Diseases by Horst and Cloyd, 2007 has a list, with varying descriptions. Horst has since retired and Cloyd is now in the midwest.
When it comes to diseases, the bigger economic impact (and louder constituency), the more that's known. The rose community has been pretty quiet for over a century.
Right now, the home horticulture side of research is suffering. Many, many of our state ag agencies are losing their home hort slots when it comes to funding.
Example: the first RRD paper came from Glenn Viehmeyer in Nebraska. He worked with flowers. He developed colder hardy mums and had embarked on a cold hardy breeding program for roses.
There is no comparable person now in Nebraska. The one worker at the same station around ten years ago had been half home hort and half agriculture and had been moved to dry beans when we visited there. As US dry bean production was being competed with by Canadian dry beans, he wasn't sure how or where his funding would come from in the future.
The current RRD research has funding, but is limited in what pathways they can follow.
Use Google Scholar to see what's funded and what's been written/published for the past three decades.
There are lots of "they say" beliefs in gardening that are just false. Seil has lots of zone 5 experience and is trustworthy. If you apply manufactured fertilizer in September, that may increase bloom in October, and there is no evidence that it increases winter damage to the main canes. But if you fertilize only with organic materials as Sam does, those will continue releasing nutrients for months, so late fertilizing may not add anything that the plants can use.
I have a bunch of big ones, too :( I swear it's hard to keep leaves on the plants pretty much all summer! I still have JBs doing their thang, too :( I'd love to use that grasshopper bait that's organic, but I don't trust it yet. I'd hate to mess up the ecosystem here, even though insects do kinda have the run of the place, lol.
On the fighting side, I do have two small snake species that live in my roses. And usually I have toads, but I haven't run across any yet this year. If tree frogs eat grasshoppers, I've seen those cute l'il guys :) And preying mantises, but they aren't as big as the grasshoppers yet this time of year, lol. Getting there!
Here check this out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tA6mclUE6Vk
Pick or hose them off the bush...
Safers insecticide soap and Spinosad work if used according to directions...
I've used spinosad when mine is that bad, but you must protect the bees from it while wet. Do it after they've gone in, remove blooms nearby, and don't use much at all. If they are that voracious (and mine were), they will eat the spinosad-poisoned leaves soon enough. So don't drench the rose or anything. I put random sprays on leaves around the affected plant. It can really hurt bees before it's dry, but after that it's one of the safest insecticides around. I wouldn't spray the buds in your case. Let them eat the leaves to die and then they won't bother the buds, either. Then the blooms will be even safer for the bees when the buds open, imho.
I fortunately have seen very few JBs this year, although other nasties have been munching on my rose buds. I think the culprits are grasshoppers and katydids. I recently planted roses and killed every grub that I dug up. It has been dry here. I don't know if this helps, although it's not good for my gardens or our well. I also don't have a lawn, just perennial/rose beds and gravel paths. I'm hoping that maybe the grubs aren't finding enough to eat since no expanse of lawn roots for them to feed on.
A question about Milky Spore. Can it be used in garden beds or is it only for use with lawns? I'm not sure how the nematode is spread.
Sharon
JB's have been much more numerous this year than in the 30 years I have been gardening in Va. I don't know if they are getting smarter, or if it is an example of Natural Selection, but my JB's are hiding deep in the center of the blooms, making it harder for both the birds and me to get them.
Since I've been contemplating trellis for an exterior stucco wall, find myself curious how far from the wall the spacers mount this trellis. This diagram shows 3":
Personally, I'd find that way too close for a rose. The 6" screw is likely 1/2 inch diameter for the 3/4 inch diameter spacer that just slides over it. For wall mounting you could use long lag bolts & slip pvc pipe over as illustrated here (where it's still too short but there is a photo) http://www.gardengatemagazine.com/54trellisattaching/ There are also trellis mounts similar to window box brackets, or using outdoor lumber with vinyl sleeves. For your brick & mortar wall, you'll need masonry appropriate fasteners & methods. Might be easier to mount it in the ground. Surprised the same design isn't offered as a ground mount.
Ratdogheads, how is yours anchored to the siding?
For that spot, I'd try to find something with some winter interest. That's the great thing about Therese Bugnet. It has red canes which look quite nice in the off season. That is also the reason I'm not overly fond of the prominent use of rugosas. They tend to look fairly bad during the winter.
Personally, I like spinossismas for roadside planting. A lot of them look good all year, they can handle road salt reasonably well, and can effectively fight a plow for curbside room. I'd strongly recommend the Great Grand and Wonderful R. hugonis except it is probably much too big for that location.
I ended up buying the Therese Bugnet- the bush I found was good sized and very healthy. Plus, it sounds like a must have hardy rose, and I can always move it to a different location if it does work there in the long term. R. hugonis is beautiful and I have a larger location on the other side of my house that could work. I only saw a couple of online places that have it and they are all out of stock, I will keep my eye out for it to become available.
The seeds inside should be very hard and usually a brown color when ripe. If you have any idea when the rose was in bloom and set these hips you can get some idea of how many days the hips have been ripening. Like I said, at least 90 days and 120 is better.
There are two easy ways to figure out ripeness. One is to do what Seil suggested. It's what I usually do. The other is to wait until the peduncle beneath the hip begins to separate from the stem holding it. If the hip easily falls from the stem, it's likely ripe. And, as Seil stated, some simply don't turn colors. Roses are related to apples. Apples come in all colors, including green, and those are ripe. Why wouldn't there also be roses which turn various colors, including green?
The May attack was probably rose slugs (little green worms, not slugs). When you looked for them, they might already have been wiped out by beneficial insects. If they are present, you can see them on the underside of leaves.
Next spring, watch for the first appearance of RS damage and wipe them off the underside, or if that's not practical, spray insecticidal soap with total coverage of the undersides. Or like me, you can just wait for the wasps to eat them.
I don't like combos for a myriad of reasons. Besides all the ones above they're not particularly efficient. Unless you have black spot, PM and many different kinds of bugs all attacking your roses all at once why use a spray for all those things? Each problem has an active ingredient that works on that pest or disease. You need to ID the problem correctly and use lthe proper product for that problem. Not just spray all kinds of things hoping you'll hit the right one. Learn to read the symptoms properly and ID the problem and then use the proper solution.
Or just learn to live with a few holey or spotted leaves and let Mother Nature run her course. She's actually quite smart about these things. Most insects have a season and some kind of predator. Most fungal diseases are weather sensitive and will come and go by your weather from season to season. And roses are tough guys. There are very few of these problems that will actually kill a rose outright. Slow it down or weaken it some but not kill it. If you're not sure what you have going on you can ALWAYS post pictures here and we will be very happy to help you figure it out.
I guess you can take advantage of the robber fly population and get some batting practice in.tennis rackets make good fly swatters to.maby a potatoes gun for the jb peach balls.get creative.I am learning weild ways to kill bugs that way.for instance,I just learned cooking oil,new or used,kills every bug I pour it on.like dish soap and water,it suffocated them.bakeing powder and yeast,with some suger,added to hot water,makes my fly bait.it ferments a day or two,then its sealed tight for two weeks.the end product is effective for all species of fly.after its in the trap a few days it ferments again,into vinegar. Now fruit flys die by large numbers.it just cycles over and over.flys ferment bringing in more flys.its nasty stuff! I'm still worried about the black widows, they are as bad as my flys but have no nateral preditor here.I want to get some chinise mantis eggs,and lady bugs,but I may have to wait til next year.we got a month or two befor winter starts in here.
meredith, I didn't know they would eat peaches! I was shocked to see them on the tree, there were a couple hundred peaches before the JBs got to them. They also ate our corn by going inside the husks and eating the kernels. then eating a hole at the bottom to get out. I had only seen them on roses before that. No I have no more peach tree and no vegetable garden. This year is the first year that I have seen them back in great number since I killed those thousands and thousands several years ago. I am going to be more observant next year.