22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
RRD is specific to roses so you don't have to worry about other plants getting it. Of course, there are lots of other diseases around, so whatever you plant, become familiar with its pests and diseases, if any.
Sorry your roses got RRD. Good luck with your new plantings.
Dorothy P is not red enough. Red ramblers include Chevy Chase (maybe not hardy in z. 5), Crimson Rambler, and Excelsa. The latter two were very widely grown in their day and commonly survive.
Is there fringe on the stipules (flanges at base of the leaf stems)? Is there white at the base of the petals?
See photos at helpmefind.com.
Your rambler looks wonderful.
I shipped my Brother Cadfael to the west... I wanted to love it, but it just didn't do well for me. I think it wants a lot of heat, for longer than our growing period. It didn't fade, it just didn't bloom a lot, and stayed puny. Others may have different experiences.
The heat probably does cause Brother Cadfael to grow large (mine is huge), but I don't think it's helpful to the blooms. This year our awful heat wave began in June and is continuing (reached 113 out here one day). Brother has bloomed through all of it, but the blooms are totally toast, and the big show in June totally balled. So if you want a large plant, heat might be the answer, but the blooms are a different story. However, the blooms on my plant never fade, so I'm puzzled by your plant's fading blooms. Of course, it's a whole lot drier here (in fact, it's a desert) than in New Jersey, so comparisons aren't overly helpful, I guess. I think the newer Austins may grow faster than some of the older ones and bloom more steadily than the the older Austins. Be patient--Jude the Obscure is even slower to get going. Diane
There was a beautiful very tall white Rose of Sharon in town, in the open by a fence. Every time I drove by it in bloom, it would (almost) turn my head. Then one spring it was gone. No idea why, and the rest of the landscaping didn't change.
My location is more sheltered, with an evergreen line in back of and below this border location. So this is the current front runner!
And yes, my Darlow literally fell over with the torrential rain we had a few weeks ago - on top of the Cardinal de R below it on the slope, with enough force to break canes. I pruned the gallica hard, after I slipped a line around the Darlow, and used bungee cord to attach line to eye hook on side of house wall, hauling Darlow vertical again. Darlow none the worse for wear, nothing broken, still blooming. But clearly a hazard to his neighbors!
Altheas grow in almost all of our climates here. I've collected many colors and flower shapes because they are SO agreeable here, and they root without fail. Ironically, I did snap a photo of the white with burgundy center one at my friend's house in Torrance last week. In her more coastal climate, the flowers are HUGE, compared to here where it's hotter and drier. Hers flowers for many weeks longer than mine, too. Kim
There are several possible explanations. Notice the two other threads here concerning how heat causes the reduction in bloom size. If you feel increased heat isn't the issue, it may easily be that the soil it has grown in has finally depleted, reducing the available oxygen available to the roots, and perhaps the nutrients. Drainage suffers as soil breaks down. The plant could need repotting to correct the drainage, improve the water holding capabilities of the soil and improve the nutrition available to the plant from the soil. I'm sure there may be other possibilities, but these come to mind first. Kim
Wonderful advice from everyone, thank you!
Ken, i will check them out, Glowing Amber is well, glowing! And ofcourse I'm open to other ideas and suggestions and would love to hear what roses you all like, any type.
Racin- This weekend is at Olympia, WA on Saturday July 13th. I hope to see you there, my name is Sarah (and no I'm not french. drat.) I only brought 1 rose to my first show, so i encourage you to try if you want. Just bring your best one and have fun. This is a great easy to read article that encouraged me to try. And just think- you get to enter the novice class too.
http://spokanerosesociety.org/2013/06/bringing-roses-to-the-show/#comment-6054
Don't get me started on Raft Island-heaven!
No box store sells 25 gallon nursery containers. I am placing an order with HAVILAND soon since I need to expand my collection by several hundred specimen trees. Haviland is selling their nursery containers really cheap. I could get you for example 25 gallon Haviland for $5.50 each (pick up in my yard SC) if you need 100 of those. I am looking to group with someone to reduce costs per container. You could also place an order online with hydroponics.net. I bought their injected molded containers that are strong and their shipping charges are varied and reasonable.
Besides shrinking in size they can also shrink in petal count and change in color from high heat, drought or even too much rain. Cold can have similar effects too. I think every rose has it's own optimum temps and weather conditions. In some respects they are divas!
Picture of infected leaves.
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
My Fairy has been wet for nine days and it is not showing those symptoms. Mad_gallica's suggestion that you may have a bad clone is sounding more and more likely. My plant has produced a large flush of nice little flowers every June for 30 years, then scattered bloom continuously into November.
While PH can more easily be altered to create a more alkaline base, I find the reverse impossible, at least for anything remotely long-term. I would probably be using a sequestered iron supplement to try to adjust the iron take-up in your rose (something such as Sequestrene)
Ian, thanks! I'll try it.
Jeri, I'm in California central coast. In the morning and afternoon we usually have dense fog, guess that's exacerbating the disease. But my roses are in well ventilated area and can receive bright full sun at noon. I'll try to apply some fungicide. I just fear if I keep pruning those rust leaves I will eventually lose all its leaves!
I think the "gritty mix" was more meant for potted roses than planted-in-the-ground roses.
I can tell you what worked for me when I started new beds. First, section off the area you intend to plant with whatever edging you'll be using. Then spread some composted manure, mushroom compost, garden compost, or whatever rich organic matter you have, about 2" thick (or more, if you have enough). Grass or no grass on the ground, doesn't matter -- ignore it. If you have very heavy soil, you can also add peat moss or gypsum.
Cover the bed with cardboard -- this will keep any germinating weed seeds in the compost from being able to reach the light, and they'll die off. This will also kill any grass or weeds already growing in the area. Then top the cardboard with 2"-3" of some kind of organic mulch (the cheapest I found at Home Depot was mixed hardwood mulch). Soak it well when finished, and leave the area for two months or more before planting in it.
The best is to do this in the Autumn and leave it until Spring. If you are in an area that doesn't get a lot of rain/snow, you'll have to water the area to help the cardboard break down. You want it to last long enough to kill any plants or weeds underneath, but break apart enough to dig through at planting time.
When it's time to replenish mulch, first put an inch or more of compost or manure on top of the old mulch (plus any organic granular fertilizer or other amendments you may use) before adding new. If you continue this yearly, you'll be feeding the critters in the soil, and they'll break it down and mix it around for you.
:-)
~Christopher
This post was edited by AquaEyes on Tue, Jul 9, 13 at 21:16
thanks guys, I'm glad to hear,
I didn't use manure as I was worrying about burns etc., but I'm relieved to hear my mix is adequate as I worried it'll wasn't draining well enough. All the pots, mainly at the nurseries , was crazy gritty, almost akin to succulent mixes..
I'm a very basic gardener, I tend to water needs and basic pruning but use strictly manure and mushroom compost for fertilizing.
Last time I had a look at the new Stormy Weather she had been mowed down by the guy cutting the lawn. Since it's a mailorder plant and still young I figured it's not that big of a deal.
Any advice on how to proceed? The planting site is intact but most above ground growth is gone, I saw a few leaves at the bottom but that's it.
I'm going to make a chicken wire cage to cover her up for the rest of the summer
Thanks!