22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Hi View1NY, well, I cut them back hard today and buried them in a pot with a good mix of potting soil and my own organic compost. We'll see who comes back!!
Yes, I bought them on ebay from a seller named Rio0776 out of California and I was extremely impressed with the size and health of the plants when they arrived and how long they lasted during my negligence!! :(
He's out of roses for this season but I've got him saved as a favorite seller and really don't want to buy from anyone else. The rootballs were substantial and full of good soil, and the rootstock is so fat and green on his plants and the shoots had new growth right away. I'll buy again and again from him no worries.
Eco~
eco, thanks for the info. I saved that ebay seller so that I'll have it handy when I make my spring order.
Have you ever ordered an own root rose from that seller? I'm in Brooklyn NY & my climate is pretty similar to yours. The roses I have are all grafted onto Dr. Huey & was thinking about trying an own-root rose next time. I'm curious about how it would do but really don't have the patience to wait years to see a decent-sized plant. Any info would be appreciated.
Sulfur kills or repels bad spider mites (Two-Spotted Mite) as well. I never had a mite outbreak during the years that I used it. However, the TSMs can develop resistance to sulfur, and then you have a big problem because the sulfur suppresses the predatory mites that normally help control the TSM. This commonly occurs in agriculture--not so much in home gardens, but it is possible.
As Nicki says, potassium bicarbonate (Remedy, Green Cure) is probably a better choice for powdery mildew on roses. But sulfur is also somewhat effective against blackspot and rose rust.
Hi all, I'm new here but I'm buying some late season potted roses and cant decide between some beautiful orange and multicolor ones for here in NJ. Can anyone advise on these?
My color scheme is mostly lavender/mauve, peach/pink and white with some deep pink/purple and orange accents.
Chihuly floribunda, George Burns floribunda, Easy Does It floribunda, Living Easy floribunda and Joseph's Coat climber, Polka climber...which of the 4 floribundas (cant decide between Easy Does It and Living Easy) and 2 climbers do you think I should choose?
Thanks all!
In addition to the possibility of herbicide spray damage, I feel that the public needs to be aware of the possibility of herbicide passage through the soil, i.e. rose roots absorbing herbicide, see link below.
Here is a link that might be useful: my link on subject
I got the Black Cherry Floribunda and Monkey Business from J&P a few weeks ago as well and although they were large cuttings, they were still bareroot cuttings.
As long as the roots are hardy then they should survive but when I planted J&P roses last year late in the year they struggled the following year (my Disneyland is barely over five inches tall this year). I would make sure the ground is mulched around them. You didn't by any chance plant them next to the house did you? That would increase their chances due to protection from the wind and some warmth radiating from the house.
It says a lot about the quality of the new J&P that they sent these out to such a cold zone this late in the season. Most good nurseries would have set a date for shipment next spring. In your zone these are going to be very hard pressed to survive this winter. I know that Mad is correct that heavy mulching can cause disease problems but personally I think it's the only chance these have of making it through your winter.
Hopefully you planted them deep. Even if they are own root plants deeper is better in your zone. Instead of mulching with leaves I would suggest mounding them as high as possible with soil. You can actually bury them completely, like they do when they do the Minnesota tip. If you do this make sure that you put markers around them so you know where they are and can find them and unbury them come spring.
I don't ever recommend keeping roses in the house. It's a very tricky thing to do. They need much more humidity than a normal house has and even with lights they won't be happy. They also tend to have terrible problems with spider mites as well. If they were still potted I would suggest getting one of the small free standing green houses to put them in, outside, for the winter. The green house was very inexpensive at Big Lots (you can also find them on line this time of year) and I've had very good results with doing this with my seedlings and new cuttings.
Yes, apparently the plumbing of the rose runs more vertical than horizontal, with roots on one side more connected to the canes on that side. You may have to dig the plant and bare-root the part you are trying to save. It is worth trying this if the crown is splittable, but, with those own-roots that make a tap root, you can't split it. Perhaps you could get a bit of root with a cane stub and treat it like a cutting.
I tried splitting twice and it didn't work, but I would try it again. I drove a hatchet blade with a heavy hammer to divide the plant. The plants survived but RRD symptoms recurred.
Looks like sawfly larvea (Rose Slug) damage...
Pick them off the bush or use Spinosad which works well.
Follow directions...
You sure you do not have some time of animal eating your leaves off besides the rose slug damage?
I left our younger Double Knockouts unprotected last year and rabbits ate them to the ground.
Now I place fencing around them until they mature alittle...
The bush should be ok...
Hi Dragoonsers
I live in Sydney and have 13 roses, including 3 very tough climbers. I don't know how easily you can get hold of the roses you want.
There are some easy roses for this warm climate. Do you have access to Australian bred roses? My (Alister Clark) Nancy Hayward climber is still young but starting to be the perpetual bloomer it's famous for being. I'd recommend you get it for your climate. I feed it with slow release rose food twice a year, and give it diluted weed tea now and then. I just snap off dead flowers and chop off any canes that make any moves to invade my neighbours' place. I'm a relatively new gardener but find this rose my easiest.
Jeri I'll see if I can get my hands on that book. Problem is tea roses I think will be hard to find. We have all sorts of Modern Roses but I don't think Teas (they have such weird proper gentlemen names) which I have never heard of locally. I do have this rose, I'll see if I can find a picture. Its own root and has been grown really well. I just attached a picture. What class do you think it belongs to? I like the shape. Its unlike the austins, and the modern ones.
Jackie you're right about the weather. Humid summers, dry winters and spring
KingCobb we don't get rust or blackspot (even though its so humid at times). Spider mites do attack often.. And most roses are grafted on centifolia.
Henry why not share some names?!
And Ross I don't think Australian roses are available. Most roses are modern, "wild ramblers" and austins are available too. I'll see what I can find though. Thank you for your suggestion!
Um, tricky, Coconutty cos I have/had the first 3 but will have to try very hard to be objective - and as I always fail, my opinion really is quite worthless....but anyway, FWIW, GdD - this rose needs a tender warm wall to really do well in dreary and damp England. I tend to grow all my plants quite hard - while many of them thrive despite themselves, GdD is not one of them. The same could be said about the next on your list.....or at least my version of it. There are several roses with this name (Mme Louis Leveque (I grow the pink moss), but clearly, I do a rubbish job of it because it was a mean bloomer which looked nakedly horrible for a lot of the time. On the other hand, for a clearly slack gardener, Purple Skyliner has been a winner - requiring very little in the way of fuss and attention, PS throws out several generous flushes, with dainty little flowers and fresh green leaves, with a sweet scent and a forgiving nature in its flexible non-prickly amiability. A playful, delightfully informal rose.....and one which might be just the ticket to welcome you back to the pleasures of the garden - well done, you.
The only one in your list I can comment on is Mon. Tillier. Planted several years ago, in full hot sun, watered well the first year, I was just looking at him today - full of blooms, not a spot of disease on his green healthy leaves. A good one. I have Purple Skyliner in a pot but its not big enough for me to comment. Good luck with your renewed interest in gardening!
Except for the babies all my landscaping is established and gets watered once a week. I've slacked off recently except for the roses. The babies get watered almost daily. Most of my landscaping is oaks and they don't get watered.
When there is enough rain and cooler weather that the ground stays wet, I stop watering until the weather heats up in the spring.
A university soil test through your extension service should be pretty dang accurate.
Nematodes and PH are definitely possible culprits. Other possibilities could be soil history if you haven't lived their long. A previous owner could have dumped something in that soil that wouldn't show up on a standard soil test. Common culprit would be thats where they parked the car when changing oil/flushing out antifreeze.
My roses are grafted onto fortuniana. Though I have some old roses that do well here own root but not in this area. So nematodes shouldn't be as much of an issue. Other plants do well here in the soil with nematodes, but again not in this area. We've lived here for 14 years. This bed used to grow gorgeous roses, but not anymore. Michael good suggestion on the kitty litter.