22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Ditto. Hot, hot, hot. I have been successful in pushing additionl water to get bloom size up during mid-summer. Otherwise, I deadhead, fertilize, etc., and wait for the fall flush.

Besides shrinking in size they can also shrink in petal count and change in color from high heat, drought or even too much rain. Cold can have similar effects too. I think every rose has it's own optimum temps and weather conditions. In some respects they are divas!

This is the only bloom my super juvenile Cinco has had so far. My camera makes the color look funny, only reason I said something though is because that's what the buds looked like.

Whatever yours are, they're pretty anyway!

Maybe Spanish Sunset?

Last year it was the same thing. Buds usually dry up and drop off before increasing in size or getting even close to opening. Should I prune it all off?

My Fairy has been wet for nine days and it is not showing those symptoms. Mad_gallica's suggestion that you may have a bad clone is sounding more and more likely. My plant has produced a large flush of nice little flowers every June for 30 years, then scattered bloom continuously into November.

While PH can more easily be altered to create a more alkaline base, I find the reverse impossible, at least for anything remotely long-term. I would probably be using a sequestered iron supplement to try to adjust the iron take-up in your rose (something such as Sequestrene)

Thanks, Michael. I may have been posting misinformation. I am pretty sure I didn't check to see where the research was done when I was checking for alleopathic properties in pine trees.

Ooops...

Lyn

Ian, thanks! I'll try it.

Jeri, I'm in California central coast. In the morning and afternoon we usually have dense fog, guess that's exacerbating the disease. But my roses are in well ventilated area and can receive bright full sun at noon. I'll try to apply some fungicide. I just fear if I keep pruning those rust leaves I will eventually lose all its leaves!

Elliott -- That's not rust. It's not that serious, either. I'm in Ventura Co, and I have some of that. It'll be going away, soon. I don't spray, and it will go away.

Jeri

Having (thankfully!) never seen RRD in person, I would say they look mighty suspicious. I have seen many Knock Outs and this doesn't look usual for them to me. Kim

Yes.

Take a look at the buds - KO sepals are rather small and simple. Those sepals are much more serrated on their edges and many have 'leaf' like ends. In your last photo, the sepals are horrifically overgrown.

KO buds are seldom the least bit thorny on their stems; these fine dense thorns aren't on any non-RRV KOs that I've examined. Many sick KOs have the hyperthorniness on some of their stems below their recepticles.

I would expect your sick blooms to hold on to their petals; healthy KOs drop their petals cleanly.

It looks like your rose may have reverted to rootstock, and from the pic, I'd guess 'R. multiflora'. This happens if the top growth dies off, and then the roots send new shoots which will not be the same as the budded top growth you intended to see. You can't really do anything about it other than digging the plant up and replacing it.

:-)

~Christopher

Thanks very much to both for your quick responses!

Hi Racin -- There are quite a few Old Rose addicts up your way, so plenty of scope for learning more about those roses.

Jeri

Wow, thanks for the warm welcome everybody!

Reem, I love my job and I am, above all, happy to be employed. The deployments aren't the greatest, but there are a whole lot worse things I could be doing. Thanks for the kind words.

Thanks also to everyone for the complements on the mini. I have a few minis but that is by far my favorite now. It's such a good little plant already.

Jeri, I love OGR's and wish more of them were repeat bloomers, because I'm greedy. Because of my occupation I rent a home in the country so I'm apprehensive about planting anything that will get too huge and having to leave it behind if I move in 5 years. It's really a conundrum.

I love a lot of the Austins and have 4 total, but having gone to a local nursery and seen a good number of them IRL, I've become a lot pickier...especially since so many of them are either strange plants overall, and/or ate up with RMV!!! I have a Jubilee Celebration that shows mild signs of it but is a big grower and bloom machine, so who knows? I keep it in a big pot on the deck and prune it with its own clippers just to be safe.

I could go on and on but I'm afraid it will get too lengthy.

Thanks again everyone for the friendly welcome, I'm glad to be here.

-Kellyn

Holly

I think I got lucky with the 3 icebergs. I had driven down to the large rose supplier to pick up the main roses for my new bed (5 of them) and since I had to use the freeway interchange right by Lowe's, I decided to stop for a pair of Russian Sages since I could not find them locally and they were listed in their ad. There sitting with the roses were a few 1g pots with 3 small icebergs started in them. All were listed as Iceberg-Brilliant Pink-Burgundy. I left the elastic tags on the plants just so I could figure them out later.

I think the darkest is a bit close to hot pink, but with so much white they really are Brilliant Pink. I prefer the paler pink but if you are doing a bright colored bed, I think either would be fine.

Like many, I have a love hate relationship with Icebergs. I hate that they do so well and are so common-loving the unusual and uncommon. But I LOVE that they do so well, bloom so well, grow so fast, seem to not care where they are planted. The two 1g's I bought last season are just as happy as the rest of the bed, even though they started smaller and do not get the care that the rest of the bed gets (less water-more heat)

Thanks Kippy, hope I get lucky like you did. I am going to try to find Blush pink, thanks to your photos and description.

So glad to hear Icebergs can take so much abuse and still do well.

Holly

Diane - I am just ignorant, so if I should know the answer to this question I apologize. Question: Does the ARS have any plans to collect REGIONAL Roses in Review type data? Those of us who live in, for example, a Mediterranean climate in California would like to know which roses do well here, period, as we do not garden all over the country.

We know that some roses which are disease prone here (rust, for example) are clean elsewhere, and visa versa - no black spot here, and covered with it elsewhere. Also, of course we do not care whether roses are "cold hardy", as we have very few nights of frost at all. A rose could very well be a 10 here, and a 3 on the East Coast, so I really do not see any worth in trying to rate roses all over simultaneously - the data is really not of much use. Just my opinion.

Jackie

Jackie, the lowest level of collection is done at the district level. Each coordinator has the data provided by reporters in for their district, and they are encouraged to provide a summary report. The coordinator names are on the RIR form in the magazine. I can also help with contact info if needed, I just have to find my copy... :-)

Oh, and I am the coordinator for the Penn-Jersey district. Send me an email for a copy of the 2012 report.

The whole Easy-to-Love series does great for me here in hot, humid Alabama. All of them are bloom machines even through our hottest summers. Most can be grown no spray here, where almost nothing else can be. The ones I have that are own root (Easy Does It, Easy Going and Livin' Easy), do seem to be more disease resistant than my grafted ones (Cinco de Mayo, Hot Cocoa, and another Livin' Easy). They all get much bigger in my climate than I expected, though...at least 5 ft (and most topping 6 ft) by at least 4 ft by end of season.

I wonder what it is about that Easy series. My Livin' Easy is own root and every year it throws so many new canes that I reduce by three or four at pruning time. I keep expecting after seven years it will slow down. None of my other roses do that. I'm really surprised it gets BS. That's a shame because it's such a trooper otherwise. I always think of it as a rose that will take a tougher growing situation but I see that's not true.

I think the leaves with yellow veins are dying because the soil is saturated so the roots can't get oxygen. The Jubilee Celebration leaf has a mineral deficiency. Is this a new leaf or an old leaf? Water-logging can also cause iron deficiency (symptoms appear on new leaves).

Even though they are recommended in old books and by recent writers who aren't paying attention, "drainage layers" in pots or the soil have the opposite effect and should never be used. However, if you mixed a little Turface with the bottom soil, I doubt it would have much effect.

A general rule is, avoid creating sharply defined layers or boundaries between soil types. These interfere with the natural movement of water through the soil. The pot itself is such a boundary, creating a saturated layer at the bottom. A "drainage layer" just moves this layer higher in the pot. However, with less watering or rain, the saturated layer will dry out enough to aerate after two or three days.

You can drain some of the excess water by touching your finger to a drain hole, breaking the surface tension, or by inserting a wick.

Thank you, all. I think I have a combination of issues.. I've read the previous posts regarding sharply defined layers. Pretty sure kitty moonbeam and MichaelG. My mix was homogenous with very little additive. When I use the word patent, I mean that the holes are open and draining freely. Surface tension is not an issue. I am going to repot and make sure the turface did not GLOB together. Thank you all....now if we could just get some nice weather.
And grit is turface.
And the Jubilee Celebration was a new leaf.