21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses


Andrew,
Last fall we found a huge and ugly witches broom way out on a cane of my very large bush of R. x fortuniana. We cut it off fast and as low as we could.
So far, I don't see aberrant growth coming up from the roots. It may be something to do with the vigor of the bush itself.
Will this extend to roses grafted onto Fortuniana? I don't know, but it's worth a try if you can see the expression of the disease when it's limited to one or two nodes out on a cane.
Ann

Fortuniana is susceptible to it. It might increase your chances of the plant surviving because it is pretty hardy. I live in Tampa Bay so besides a few odds and ends, I graft everything on Fortunina.
I hope the plant does recover Ann! Best of luck with it.
Regards,
Andrew

If the NEW leaves are pale with ONLY the main veins dark green, it is iron deficiency.
These symptoms often occur early in the season and then clear up, because, for some reason, roses have trouble taking up iron from cold, wet soils. So there is no urgent need to do anything.
I wouldn't bother to buy an iron product. There is almost always plenty of iron in the soil. The problem is likely caused by a combination of pH above 6.8 and cold, wet soil. However, fertilizing with a soluble such as Miracle Gro for Roses or Miracid will supply available iron.
To reduce the recurrence of symptoms, check the pH and apply sulfur to get a pH of 6.0-6.5. It takes about a year to react fully on the soil..


Thanks everyone for your feedback. This is truly a post revived from the dead.
As an update, I did decide to plant (6) SIR's in the spot I noted in my earlier post. They are underplanted by Lavender. For the most part, I have been happy with the planting and the rose performance, but the blooms do struggle somewhat in the relfected heat. In cooler temps, they are certainly eye-catching. Disease resistance has been better than expected as well, but there is little to no fragrance. Overall, I'd rate it as good to above average as a rose.
I did lose one of the SIR's this year to an errant foot by a contractor last fall and the cold of this past winter. I have planted a very similiar variety called South Africa in its place to compare it directly under the same conditions to my SIR's. If South Africa tolerates the heat better and outperforms SIR, then I'll likely make a change.



Your description of White QE equates to my experience with this sport. I can affix the same description to at least a couple of other "white" sports of pink roses -- 'Augustine Guinoisseau' ('White La France') and 'White Gene Boerner'. (The jury is still out on 'Weisse Gruss an Aachen'.) The color tends to fade to white under the blinding mid-summer sunshine in my zone, but they all open pink, and usually remain a pale pink in the spring and fall.

It looks like the one which has grown at my sister's house for twenty years. When Santa Clarita heats up, the pink disappears and it's white (as is "Yellow Queen Elizabeth"). The pink you're seeing is normal for cooler, damper weather. Cook the devil out of it with lots of reflected, radiated and direct heat/sun and it will bleach out to pure white, just like the yellow sport does. Kim



Many different roses have flowers like that. It would help if you post pictures showing the architecture of canes for the whole plant. Sharp closeups of thorns, buds, leaves etc. might help someone determine the type of rose. Other pertinent info would be how big are the flowers and the plant, whether it blooms in clusters, and where you live.
Barring any ID of the rose or its class, you can search on pruning shrub roses and follow the typical advice. Pruning is best done in early spring before the rose leafs out.



Did I say I was assuming the roses in question were indigenous? I said that roses with a similar look have been found in that area, and brought to the west.
I suggest reading Phillips & Rix, and catching up on some of that research.
There are many, many things about roses that we won't know until DNA testing becomes more available.
Jeri

Occasionally I see this on my roses as well, not sure what this is. If I see this on a newly planted rose, I might loosen it with a hand fork or spray with water to loosen it a bit.
I don't think this webbing will do serious damage to the rose plant itself.
I wouldn't recommend using any miticides or insecticides, better to let Nature and predators take care of it.

This is caused by a type of sawfly larvae. They are little worm like caterpillars that eat into the forming buds and surrounding leaves and create little webbed nests attaching the bud and leaves together. When they start getting older, you will see more evident black spots that almost look like coffee grounds on the leaves and in the webbing. This is their feces. If you pull the webbing apart and expose the bud, you will see the small larvae which are usually green in colour and can be quite small at first. There are sometimes 2 or 3 in the little webbed area.
Some roses seem particularly susceptible to this type of Sawfly and others are rarely touched. William Baffin is one rose here that they absolutely adore and routinely attack in large numbers. No need to spray or dust as it will have limited effectiveness. Just pick them out of the cocoon and step on them, or use your finger and thumb and gently squish them around the bud and leaves.





Thank you!
mine is stiff, large and thorny.