22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
You might try calling or e-mailing Burling at Burlington roses to see whether she would root one for you. She can root just about anything and if she has a mother plant it's very possible she'll help you out. I know she rooted a bunch of Annie Laurie McDonnell climbing roses (I have one of them) for interested buyers and had a waiting list for this rose before too long. The same thing could happen with the very desirable Cl. Lady Hillingdon. Judging by the size of the one described by Rogue Valley Nursery, I have the feeling that they have the climbing one too.
Ingrid
I also found I didn't have the patience to convert my old slides. I meant well, but . . .
I used Olympus SLRs for years (film) and I am now using an Olympus E-500. It does a good job for me, but I don't know what I would next move on to.
For a "pocket" camera, I tried a little Nikon Cool-Pix, found it SORELY lacking, and took it back to Costco, whence it came. I replaced it with a Canon PowerShot A2500, which fills that niche nicely. At a push, I can get a decent rose image with it, and it's good for snapshots of the dogs, and events.
Jeri
A rather inexpensive item to improve photos, is one of the "cubes" (photo light tent like to do small product photos) I cut the bottom out of mine so I can set it down and over a vase(etc)
Taking photos early or late in the day will help and on a cloudy/overcast day.
You can also stand back and zoom in to blur the background. (if you have an optical zoom)
A $2 piece of white poster board can be propped up to reflect light back to open up shadows.
And there are a lot of modifiers for flashes that can help, but the best thing to do with a flash is buy a second and use them off the camera to add depth and highlights (Ratio in your cameras flash manual if you have that type of flash)
That IS lovely, bkutz! And Jeri's right, ignore what Amandahugg said about the patent police. That's nonsense. As a matter of fact, you should consider sending photos of the rose to Star Roses. There's a good possibility that THEY might want to purchase the rights to propagate and market this new variety from YOU.
Let's hope that the sport remains stable over time (ie, doesn't readily revert), and that it retains the disease resistance of its sport parent (my guess is that it will).
Congratulations on your find, Bkutz! Keep us posted, okay?
It's been my experience (unfortunate as it is) that the difference in spray drift from Herbicides and RRD can often be differentiated by the amount of initial damage exhibited. If one lone cane (or a small part thereof) is deformed I usually think RRD. If more then one cane seems to be affected I think of the possibility of Herbicide damage. The next test (although a bit risky) is easy. Cut back the offending cane (canes) and if new growth sprouts with symptomatic foliage it's RRD.....Interestingly enough, I took out an Austin rose this spring that exhibited RRD growth. Further confirmation of its RRD appeared 2 months later when a leftover piece of the root sprouted showing RRD symptoms on even the tiny new leaves. I will not replant in this spot for a couple of years just for this reason - unseen leftover virus infected roots........The plight of the elm tree in America I hope isn't indicative of where roses will be in 50 years. But if the mite can't be widely controlled (including in the wilds), it may be a sad ending to a glorious hobby........Maryl
maryl, not all herbicide damage is spray drift. Herbicide can also be absorbed by the roots.
Here is a link that might be useful: link to my rose rosette virus web page
I don't have experience with using Wilt Pruf for that purpose, but I can tell you that WP itself can burn rose foliage under some circumstances. Be sure plants are well hydrated, and apply in the cool of the morning. Don't apply to wilting transplants, but apply days in advance of transplanting.
By reducing transpiration, anti-transpirants cause leaves to "run hotter" than they would otherwise, because transpiration cools the leaf. But this is not to say your idea would never work. I really don't know.
I'm not as tempted by Wisconsin roses or any of the Canadian companies because they graft on rootstocks that wouldn't like it here in Florida. Truthfully though, I've even considered trying multiflora rootstock for rare varieties. Maybe I could build a tiny air conditioned greenhouse or put ice cubes on the roots......
I have a rose "problem." :)
Thanks for all the information. Hopefully I will get lucky w my Sugar Moon since one of the things that attracted me was that there were several blooms and a bunch of buds yet to open. And I loved the scent. Today I found a spot for it and will plant it this weekend. I planted my Liv Tyler in a nice, sunny location earlier today. I'm already excited for next spring!
Throwing in a non-rose climber that you may like for your gazebo, I'd suggest you look into the wisteria 'Blue Moon'. It's a cultivar of one of our native species of wisteria, so no worries about it taking over (or possibly not even being winter-hardy) for you. It also reblooms lightly and intermittently. It might make a nice complimentary climbing companion to whatever roses you select.
Some clematis might be a good idea as well -- many offer blooms during the Summer when many climbing roses aren't doing much.
:-)
~Christopher
hi, Charleney,
I live in the central Puget Sound area and have been here for about 4 years now. I am glad you are feeling better and want to garden.
Like everything else, there is a lot of different advice given on fall pruning that I've read. The Olympic Rose Society recommends cutting back moderns 1/3 about Thanksgiving, but they are a tad bit colder and probably windier than Seattle. I think Olympia is 7b. Other regional ARS groups (Seattle and Tacoma) only mention spring pruning that I've seen. What I come away with from the different opinions is that if you prune your roses now you won't kill them. Likewise, If you don't prune your roses now, you won't lose anything.
Practically speaking, what Lyn mentions, is also what I've read. The leaves transfer their stored sugars into the canes before they drop so if you cut back too much too soon into the moderns, you can possibly cut into their energy reservoir. My leaves (prob zone 8a) haven't ever fully dropped, though, so I am not sure that the transfer is taking place completely. I expect your leaves don't fully drop, either.
But to be safe, what I would do is cut out the dead wood and do some light trimming of thin canes or ones that are going to whip around in the wind and then wait until February or so. You won't hurt anything by waiting and we really might have a very cold winter, in which case the roses might actually need what's in the canes.
Just another opinion! Gean
Gean ...
Good to see you posting !
I usually have to wait until the end of March or early April before I can begin to prune. However, my 8a zone is located at a higher elevation than yours and I think we have winter temps longer than you do in your garden.
You are correct in that a modern rose pruned at the wrong time will survive. Mrs. J's roses were deer-pruned for three years before I got them caged. My deer just pruned whenever they wanted to feed on the rose and did not prune correctly. The roses lived in spite of them.
Smiles,
Lyn
Lynn, may I suggest Poseidon? It's gorgeous. I got it this spring grafted on multiflora and it's just bloomed and bloomed...but it is at least 6 ft tall. I pulled down some canes and it is busting out the laterals....I may use it as a climber! It's a Kordes rose and has been very healthy. Here is a photo on HMF that looks like mine. Notice the buds?
I purchased Love Song on Dr. Huey...I realize now that I have mf root stock to compare that Huey is not good for my garden. Love Song is anemic. I will try it on mf though because it is a beautiful rose and I love my lavenders!
Poseidon's buds are deep hot pink and then burst into many petals similar to Love Song but more blue/lavender.
I have Purple Tiger own root. It's lousy own root here...
Susan
Here is a link that might be useful: Poseidon on HMF
I purchased the purple tiger today from S & W but could not determine via their site which root stock they use. Dr. Huey works well for my alkaline soil. I purchased 4 Marie Pavie on multi-flora and am guessing that I will have to really amend my soil to reduce the pH. I will have to do the same for Purple tiger if it is on multiflora.
Thank your for the suggestion. Poseidon is very pretty. It reminds me a bit of the way Blue Girl in person when it is in a pot and greenhouse. These roses usually turn gray here. I do not know if it is the heat, soil, or a combination of the two.