22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Since I've been contemplating trellis for an exterior stucco wall, find myself curious how far from the wall the spacers mount this trellis. This diagram shows 3":
Personally, I'd find that way too close for a rose. The 6" screw is likely 1/2 inch diameter for the 3/4 inch diameter spacer that just slides over it. For wall mounting you could use long lag bolts & slip pvc pipe over as illustrated here (where it's still too short but there is a photo) http://www.gardengatemagazine.com/54trellisattaching/ There are also trellis mounts similar to window box brackets, or using outdoor lumber with vinyl sleeves. For your brick & mortar wall, you'll need masonry appropriate fasteners & methods. Might be easier to mount it in the ground. Surprised the same design isn't offered as a ground mount.
Ratdogheads, how is yours anchored to the siding?
For that spot, I'd try to find something with some winter interest. That's the great thing about Therese Bugnet. It has red canes which look quite nice in the off season. That is also the reason I'm not overly fond of the prominent use of rugosas. They tend to look fairly bad during the winter.
Personally, I like spinossismas for roadside planting. A lot of them look good all year, they can handle road salt reasonably well, and can effectively fight a plow for curbside room. I'd strongly recommend the Great Grand and Wonderful R. hugonis except it is probably much too big for that location.
I ended up buying the Therese Bugnet- the bush I found was good sized and very healthy. Plus, it sounds like a must have hardy rose, and I can always move it to a different location if it does work there in the long term. R. hugonis is beautiful and I have a larger location on the other side of my house that could work. I only saw a couple of online places that have it and they are all out of stock, I will keep my eye out for it to become available.
The seeds inside should be very hard and usually a brown color when ripe. If you have any idea when the rose was in bloom and set these hips you can get some idea of how many days the hips have been ripening. Like I said, at least 90 days and 120 is better.
There are two easy ways to figure out ripeness. One is to do what Seil suggested. It's what I usually do. The other is to wait until the peduncle beneath the hip begins to separate from the stem holding it. If the hip easily falls from the stem, it's likely ripe. And, as Seil stated, some simply don't turn colors. Roses are related to apples. Apples come in all colors, including green, and those are ripe. Why wouldn't there also be roses which turn various colors, including green?
The May attack was probably rose slugs (little green worms, not slugs). When you looked for them, they might already have been wiped out by beneficial insects. If they are present, you can see them on the underside of leaves.
Next spring, watch for the first appearance of RS damage and wipe them off the underside, or if that's not practical, spray insecticidal soap with total coverage of the undersides. Or like me, you can just wait for the wasps to eat them.
I don't like combos for a myriad of reasons. Besides all the ones above they're not particularly efficient. Unless you have black spot, PM and many different kinds of bugs all attacking your roses all at once why use a spray for all those things? Each problem has an active ingredient that works on that pest or disease. You need to ID the problem correctly and use lthe proper product for that problem. Not just spray all kinds of things hoping you'll hit the right one. Learn to read the symptoms properly and ID the problem and then use the proper solution.
Or just learn to live with a few holey or spotted leaves and let Mother Nature run her course. She's actually quite smart about these things. Most insects have a season and some kind of predator. Most fungal diseases are weather sensitive and will come and go by your weather from season to season. And roses are tough guys. There are very few of these problems that will actually kill a rose outright. Slow it down or weaken it some but not kill it. If you're not sure what you have going on you can ALWAYS post pictures here and we will be very happy to help you figure it out.
Yes it has been cane hardy for me. Late growth on the tips will die back, and it's susceptible to breakage from the wind of course.
I am zone 5b. I used to be zone 5a on the "old" map. Lately I'd been wondering climate change had bumped me into 6 because I'd had such good luck for so many years, but last winter shattered my delusions of growing zone 6 roses. Purple Splash was fine.
I do know that this rose does not seem to do well everywhere. In my location, I know of no better white HT. My specimens have grown to around 5.5 feet high and across. The flowers are large (5 inches or better sometimes), have a high petal count, and are very fragrant. No significant disease problems.
At least here in my zone KOs can grown pretty big. I see them in flower beds here that are 6x5 but suspect they aren't pruned at all and if they are it is with hedge trimmers since they are shaped with some being boxy. My next door neighbor pruned hers down to about 24" tall in February and her bushes are now about 4x3'. Apparently it doesn't hurt them to prune them back that much if you want to keep them smaller
You mention when the nights turn cooler. That's the time to move them since you can't wait until dormancy. I'd take a radical approach. Cut them back to around 12" high, strip the leaves and then move them as soon as the nights turn cool. After you move them water them in well but no fertilizer. Particularly not nitrogen. As per Jack Falker's recommendation about 6 weeks before your first frost date give them a dose of potassium once a week.
This will give them a chance to set some roots beforehand. Hopefully you can dig up a decent rootball aka my video but this will still give the rose time to settle in. Come winter I'd mound the parts of the canes sticking out of the ground to within 2-3" of their tips. That should keep them healthy until you can plant them after the work is done.
I've gotten doubles from Chamblees also. Noticed them when the dirt fell off while planting them.They were tiny but have grown beautifully since planting separately.Nice of them thou since if one is weaker and doesn't make it. Chances are the other will grow fine.
I guess its difficult to keep track of large stocks of roses. K&M would not be the first to send out a mislabeled rose. LOL Oh well, it could be worse. But I do still want Christopher Marlowe, I'll see if they have it next season. I wish they would have a sale. Their roses are of excellent quality and I'd even say fair price, especially for what you get and on Fortuniana, but shipping is super expensive.
But to tell you the truth, its worth it. They carry a huge stock of Austins and besides Cool Roses here in Fl (which only has certain varieties and of limited stock) there really is no other source for Austins on Fortuniana.
Yesterday afternoon I walked a couple of streets looking at all the roses in the front yards of people and did not see anymore RRD but did see some probable herbicide damage that bears watching.
The HOA sent emails to the members and showed pictures of RRD damage and herbicide damage. It seems we have a couple of master gardners in the subdivision and the HOA has invited them to prepare a presentation for a community meeting.
The HOA is currently removing all KOs in common grounds and replacing them with native plants. It'll be sad to see the loss of all those beautiful blooms all spring and fall but RRD is such a major problem here they feel that is the only way they can arrest it.
wonderful! Enjoy your roses.
Enjoy your roses!