22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Thanks. Overall, we've had cooler than normal temperatures for May, maybe that's part of the problem. Moroseaz, yours sounds lovely, I love the pictures I've seen of it, that's why I got it. I hope mine will get with the program soon.

Figure it's got to put out roots or it can't stand up. If you're living in a warm soil zone, it probably will take a little longer to establish than some of the shorter plants. Since it is so tall, I think of it more as an upright climber or large shrub than a hybrid tea. It gets more water, more fertilizer, more space. I do stake the huge canes so they don't break during our summer monsoon winds/dust storms.

That is not rust. If it is mites, and you have killed them, the damaged leaves will not change - they are already damaged. Any new growth should come in without this sort of damage now.

It could also be some sort of burn. Give it plenty of water, and give it a rest from any spraying or fertilizer for a couple of months and see if the new growth looks better.

Jackie

Thanx all!

"clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil" is the type that has had the azadirachtin removed.

https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&authuser=0&gws_rd=ssl#newwindow=1&hl=en&authuser=0&q=+%22clarified+hydrophobic+extract+of+neem+oil%22

Yes, functionally it is about the same thing as canola or other salad oil (which can also be used in the garden). It kills by smothering if the insect or mite is coated. It also kills the external fuzz of powdery mildew.

I have discovered 2 broken canes on Eden and Graham Thomas yesterday. I think it could be squirrels since they are the only animals that can get into my yard beside birds. Recently we have a lot of the brown ones, smaller than the usual grey ones, coming to our yard. I hope they stop doing it because "Dr. Jekyll" here is not happy.

Using bone meal would often result in something digging up what I just planted.

I have tried Mr. Lincoln in the dry Nevada desert 3 times, and it never did well. Now I am trying Oklahoma, Chrysler Imperial and Firefighter to see how they do. Maybe I will be giving up on them too, but I have given up on Mister Lincoln for good. At least there is no black spot here to worry about. Mr. Lincoln might be fine in N. Calif, and it wouldn`t hurt to try it!

I did buy Firefighter this spring and the first blooms on it have been great. It's more of a true red than Mr. Lincoln.

I studied our curled and common rose slug here and they can crawl back on the bush... So squish em... Our curled rose slug here feeds on the top of leaves... Our common RS feeds on the underside of the leaves...

But I think feeding habits and appearance can vary from location to location...

Two of my favorite pics I took a couple years ago...lol

If they do climb back on, I think it's uncommon for them to do so. However, it makes me very happy to squish the little #%%$#@!'s. They pop quite satisfactorily.

HI Ann
Thanks for the gentle correction of my assumption. It definitely seems to come from something other than my yard, but you're right that I don't know whether it is from the seller or the original rose grower. Certainly both companies for whom I've had the canker issues this year get their roses from another growing source, and that presumably is where the problem starts. Given the advanced state of progression from there, I still think similarly bad growing conditions will look worse by the time they arrive in cold zones after storage, but in all likelihood the problem began somewhere other than at the rose company. It has just had longer to fester by the time it gets to me, as witness a few photos of this year's crop. Any wonder these roses are already dead, after only a few weeks in the ground? I'd expect this look from body bag roses, since you take your chances there, but not good quality bareroots.

As I've said, the company has been great to replace these, but it's a shame about the treatment at the source. Hopefully they can fine the growers for these poor quality bands they received. Here are a few of the scarier ones, just after unpacking from the boxes.

And a split cane for good measure, also pruned down to nubbins.

Regardless, I like Ann's suggestion to stop this as far as possible at the "superficial blob" stage. Four of the badly cankered roses are clearly dead, but not Cinnamon Dolce (yet) who I immediately denuded of all her canes, and she seems to have decided to forgive me and regrow from the graft. Others that LOOKED fine after pruning, have had that progressive Black Finger of Death that so very quickly gets beyond me as soon as my back is turned.

Cynthia

Yea, I would be very disappointed to receive roses in that condition but at least they will replace it. But since they are living things, it happens. Good luck and please update for us on the new shipment.

Ha, over here in the UK, it means rose replant disease - a nuisance but absolutely not in the same league as the hideous Rose Rosette Disease - a horror mite infestation leading to dreadful growth distortions and eventual death. A nasty, nasty disease - I believe Ann Peck is the forum expert so follow up any of her postings (my source of info) and hope your area remains RRD free (cos I am counting the weeks and months before this hits the UK - the global movement of organic material suggests this is only a matter of time).

BC makes powdered aspirin that dissolves quickly in water. That might be a good option to mix either with the soil or in a watering can.

Seil's advice to prune to white pith is correct for young canes of hybrid teas.

The OP asked when to fertilize. There is no point in fertilizing until there are green leaves to utilize the nutrients. Be sure not to exceed labeled doses of fertilizer, and if you are using more than one kind of fertilizer, reduce doses accordingly. (Labeled doses are always on the generous side.) If you overfertilized last season, there should be plenty of nutrients left over except for nitrogen. Available nitrogen is transient in the soil, so N needs to be applied every year, in several small doses if you are using a fast nitrogen source. By contrast, excess phosphate can build up harmfully in the soil if you keep applying more than is needed.

These were just delivered from my local nursery. They are knockout roses but look really unhealthy. Should I return them?

I never pinch off buds, and it's never made a bit off difference in my roses. I agree about removing more grass. The only thing that concerns me is the distance to the fence from the rose--it looks like just a few inches, but it could be the photo which makes it look that way. Peace will be a big rose, and it's a beautiful one. Diane

Peace, for me, has been about the most disease resistant of my lot, AND, in case you aren't yet aware, it has a great backstory.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosa_Peace

First that I love the shape of the trellis but I agree that it's too flimsy for what you'd like to do. I suggest clematis or a mix of clematis.

I don't know where my brain was in my above post. I meant 4x4 post.

Tall fencing is the only sure fire method. Other than that individual cages around the roses will help some. The spray will only work if you are diligent about doing it often and for sure after every rain.

There was a bear in my garden this morning. I guess that's preferable to deer.

One of my favorite pictures of Jadis. I know she is not on the list, but she is beautiful and fragrant. her only issue was losing leaves at the bottom, so I always planted something shorted in front of her. I would prune her back to about 2.5 ft and she would grow to 6 or 7 feet tall by end of summer

PP and Tiffany both get blackspot here in Asheville, and I'm pretty sure they would in Houston, which also has severe disease pressure. Earth Song is resistant here and in most gardens, but I can't promise that it will be for you.

The way ES spreads is apparently not by root suckers but by canes that come out sideways from the crown before turning up. Double Delight also does that. It is easy to remove these if you don't want them, or turn them into new plants. I don't consider ES invasive.

Clay soil is fine for roses. Just dig in some compost or manure over the whole area. A top dressing of coffee grounds and a good mulch will improve the soil texture over the years. Don't step on or dig the clay when it is wet.

If it's just the tip leave it but keep an eye on it because often times that will begin to travel down the cane. Sometimes if the cane had a bloom at the tip a short section will die back where that bloom was cut off but the rest of the cane will be OK. If there is a brown stripe down one side of the cane it's over. It will eventually all turn black and dry up. If it's at the bottom where the soil line is it's already toast. It's probably rotted below the soil level.

Well I figure I should give an update, mostly because the in-the-moment decision making and the nature of learning what to expect and how to behave and everything else that comes with experience was a useful lesson for me that may benefit others.

So a quick summation.

I have had about a 10% success rate on my first flurry of cuttings using the burrito method. Considering all the places I did things "wrong" as I went along I actually consider it a success. I didn't properly go through my received cuttings to make cuts at budding points so I had tips far away from where the plant would naturally send them, occasional missed watering, over attentive watering, and such were all mistakes along the way.

The decision to stick many of the calloused cuttings in the dirt with still a month or 2 of questionable weather wasn't so dreadful as I originally thought. More plants have started to stir and awake, granted some are just now putting out their first leaves, but point being, that when I stuck them outside it was more of a "may as well see, and pull out dead sticks when weeding later," instead of just tossing them out when I got tired of potting up my mess of cuttings. It did snow a couple times after I planted them outside, and we definitely had some freeze/thaw cycles. More than I was obviously hoping for when I planted them.

I moved some of my leafed out cuttings to the garden. Where 2 promptly died, and 4 are still very slowly growing. The plants are still tiny. The couple I have in the house will be going outside soon. I found a slight spider-mite infestation on one of the few I have indoors so I figure it is time to let natures little bug eaters help me take care of the issue.

I will say that a couple of the plants were much more likely to root than others. Heirloom and Mr. Lincoln putting out 3x more plants than the other successful varieties, and of course some I didn't get any to stick. However, those 2 were among the ones I wanted the most, and now that I have them, I have that intense satisfaction. I actually bought an heirloom from Walmart anyway because it was discounted to $6 and was a gallon plant in good condition, just with spent blooms.

I doubt that I will get any flowers from these tiny little specimen this year. I suspect, that in future, I will opt to purchase my initial plants and then take cuttings from those for gifts, back ups and filling out beds. Thanks everyone so much for the help so far in my rose obsession.