22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I took a picture this evening.
Enjay

Looks like many of those dying leaves have blackspot or cercospora spot. I think it will be OK.

Everyone here has made bad mistakes. It's good that you have been so forthcoming.

To check for water logging, you can stick a pry bar or something 8"-12" deep and sniff for the smell of sewage or anaerobic decay. The simplest treatment for poor drainage is to raise the soil level around the rose six inches above grade, in a couple of stages. The rose will adapt by sending feeder roots into the drainable soil. Most feeder roots are quite near the surface because they need oxygen.

However, if the rose has been waterlogged for months, I think the leaves would have died and dropped off long since. But then, necrotic (dead, brown) spots are not normally characteristic of RMV. Also RMV usually shows as soon as the leaves expand.

Cupping of leaves could result from deficiency of calcium or molybdenum, from powdery mildew, or just at random. I don't think the discoloration you have is characteristic of Ca or Mb deficiency.

Although the name RMV has been utilized in this discussion, one does not know which virus or group of viruses is/are giving these symptoms (if it is virus caused). Leaf cupping is often listed as a possible rose virus result. The link below is rather old (1998), but it appears (to me) to be years ahead of its time regarding the viruses of roses.

"In general, symptoms of virus and viruslike infections that are visible on the leaf may include overall chlorosis (yellowing) or chlorotic mottling; yellowing, or clearing of the veins; green or brown banding of veins (a dark green or brown color that parallels the veins); yellowish green to bright yellow spots and blotches; and various fine lines, some resembling an âÂÂoakleafâ pattern and others appearing as erratic, wavy âÂÂwatermarks,â or as definite rings (Figure 1). The leaves may also be misshapen, puckered, recurved, cupped, twisted, brittle, and smaller than normal. In some cases, the leaves are cast prematurely. Canes often have shorter than normal internodes, resulting in stunting or severe dwarfing of the plant, or a âÂÂballingâ (rosette growth) of the new terminal growth. In some cases, there is severe cane dieback. Only one or a few canes of a plant may exhibit symptoms, or the entire plant may be affected.
With some of these diseases, only the new leaves and canes develop symptoms; with others, it is the mature, older leaves and canes that are visibly affected. Usually, the higher temperatures and drier conditions of summer inhibit virus or virus like activity in the plant. As a result, rose plants that had symptoms of infection in the spring commonly resume normal or near-normal growth in summer. With a return of cooler temperatures in autumn, symptoms often reappear, depending on the variety of rose, the strain of the virus or other agent, and environmental conditions. Although rose plants may seemingly tolerate infection, with symptoms appearing and then disappearing during the year, the agent does exert an overall debilitating effect and may eventually kill the plant. Aside from the acute symptoms that develop on leaves and stems, the plant suffers a chronic decline in vigor that, in cooler climates, increases the chances of winter-kill. Infected plants also show a decline in flower production and quality. Flower petals may show mottling, distortion, and line
markings."

Here is a link that might be useful: link to 1988 article

If I take 8" (or 30") of stem with a spent flower, I call it "deep deadheading." If the rose is too small, I just snap and take no stem. If it is too tall or floppy, I take 1-3 feet of stem. That could also be called "summer pruning," but you would only do it when taking a spent flower off, so it is also deadheading. I think we all understand that, when taking stem off, you should cut just above a leaf. When snapping a peduncle, you don't have to worry about that.

duplicate, sorry.

This post was edited by michaelg on Sun, Jun 30, 13 at 15:07

Susan, in your picture, the white flocky spots on the big green leaflet, top center, appear to be powdery mildew.

Kay, that is interesting about own-root gallicas hating pots, thanks.

Hi poorbutroserich

FYI, all yours are OGRs

Hippolyte - Gallica

Apothecary(?) [assuming it is R. gallica officinalis] - Species

Nuits de Young - Moss

Duc de Cambridge - Damask

Orpheline de Juliet - Hybrid Gallica

Complicata - Hybrid Gallica

'Own Root Damask' - a Damask I am assuming.

Gallicas as a class, and R. gallica itself, usually don't get black spot but do get mildew. Your others are generally susceptible to both.

Those are all once-bloomers, however, and are pretty much finished here before diseases show up. We don't see the point of applying a fungicide to a rose that's done for the season, so we don't use one on any of our once-blooming roses

However, on our repeating OGRs , we do use fungicides as needed for the specific rose.

OK, here's another one, Henry -
Did you not realize that Starlings are one of the worst birds? They're not indigenous to North America.

According to the IUCN (the International Union for the Conservation of Nature) they're on the list of the World's Worst 100 Invasive Species. More to the point, they're responsible for the reduction in chickadees, nuthatches, woodpeckers, purple martins and other swallows (great mosquito controlers).

I love the way their beaks turn orange in the warm seasons, but other than that, they're a trashy bird we'd be better off without.

It does seem odd that I have seen only a few following the horrific infestations experienced three years ago. I trapped many thousands in those years. It had to have had some effect, but the weather may have been the biggest contributing factor.

Home made beetle trap. Soup for everyone!

I just got my final [well, maybe!] order from Vintage Gardens. All the bands look great but some of them look like mature roses they are so thick and big. I am wondering if I should pot them up in a bigger pot than a one gallon? Or if I should pot them all in one gallon pots and check the roots at the end of the summer. Thanks!
Judith

If they're that large and mature, definitely go the larger size. Why smoosh the roots into a gallon where they'll be stressed for a couple of months then have to repot when you can spread them out in a two and leave them for months longer? I use whatever size the plant impresses me it needs. Many fit nicely in gallons. Some demand to go large right off the bat. As long as you're not going band to five gallon or larger, you can't really hurt anything. Go for it! Kim

When I was a kid, my dad had an old Ford. Every time it would act up, he'd start noticing new cars and talking about them around that Ford. He swore for years that old car "heard" him and straightened right up. My mom talked to her plants, "See that compost pile over there?.....", and they would straighten right up. So, why not? Stranger things have happened! LOL! Kim

I think if you plant the shovel in the soil just in front of the bush you can encourage growth.....or just have a really handy shovel when needed.

Neptune is supposed to be a vigorous bush, I asked a local rosarian who recommends it what to do to make mine more than a one cane wonder. He suggested a shovel. My rose must have heard that comment and has thrown out 3 more fat canes.

Wild Blue Yonder was a gangly, awkward shrub for me, which grew straight up, with thick canes and not enough leaf coverage. It may be different elsewhere but I wasn't at all pleased with it once it matured a bit.

Hey all,

Thanks for the input! As for BS, normally, itâÂÂs only the spindly HTâÂÂs that get it with any vengeance in my garden. This year has been sooooo rainy, though, and Charlotte is getting some BS.

@zaphod42, thatâÂÂs good to know, itâÂÂs def a damp, wet spring/summer here! Good to know Ascot is doing well in this weather.

@Diane, itâÂÂs funny, I saw zaphodâÂÂs post only after I posted mine, lol. But IâÂÂve been following it too for some good info! Funny we both talked about MW, too.

@predfern, thanks for the info on CdM, it noticed that in the drawings VG had on itâÂÂs website for CdMâÂÂs habit. Do you know about the health or anything else? Are the suckers hard to control?

I simply cannot visualize an aphid infestation severe enough to kill an otherwise healthy plant.

Nor do I think anyone was suggesting that the Original Poster simply ignore an infestation of aphids.

The point that was made was that, with pesticide already sprayed, and no aphids present, further use of pesticide is not needed.

And that, if in the future, the only problem IS aphids, they could easily be eradicated through less-catastrophic means.

Jeri

Wooooooow, so I left this post for a while and look at what it turned to, LOL
OK, so, let me clarify a bit, I sprayed again.
But this is because the day I sprayed the plants on, was
very wet and the plants were dripping.
The mistake I did here was spraying dripping wet plants.
Shortly after, like 20 minutes, it rained again and this time the rain was heavier that the previous time so I think the insecticide was all cleaned off and yes, it was all gone because the days after the continuous rain, Aphids attacked.Again.
But after spraying the plants, there have been little as to no aphids anymore. :)
I also took another measure to reduce aphids; I removed all weeds around.
Another thing is that right besides the house next door to mine, there is this neglected tree, not grown by the government or public.
It is one of those trees with winged seeds (Not like literally, "winged") which is, as I said, neglected and collects all diseases and pests known to plants.
I wish I was exaggerating, but on that tree, each and every leaf has more than 500 aphids feeding on it and this is a big tree we're talking about.
I cut off all branches reaching into my home and thus, the aphid problem has decreased.
The reason that tree is not gone is because (It grows on the edge of a wall) if they cut the tree off, it will fall right on my neighbour's home. haha
I just want my roses to be healthy and happy, and not looking as bad as every other rose in the neighborhood which are all, Aphid infested catastrophes.

Thanks for all the replies!

thread link

Here is a link that might be useful: Another interesting 2013 seedling

Forum Link

Here is a link that might be useful: Rose Propagation Forum

Earwigs very much eat on any sort of bloom, whether they be rose, clematis or otherwise. They do eat other bugs as well, but in abscence of those, will happily put holes and munch away on blooms. They do prefer blooms that are nearing the end of their lifespan of the bush over newly opened ones.

Hello Mitchell:

Agree - it is an earwig.

Earwigs are omnivores meaning they will feed on other insects and also on the plants themselves. Sometimes they will do both at the same time. In fact, they will feed on just about any organic matter, whether living or dead. They are not considered a major pest of roses.

Some people even consider them to be a beneficial. I don't think I would go that far, But IMHO, they don't cause enough damage on roses to warrant using a pesticide. If you feel you need to control them in the garden, you can trap them, handpick them, or enlist birds as your allies. Aside from insect-eating birds, they don't have very many natural enemies.

Is this grown indoors or out? Has it had normal appearing foliage before, or is it a new plant? Have you fed it with anything, or sprayed the leaves with anything? Do you know the name of the variety? More information is needed to help figure this out. Kim

Looks like you have those inside. Is that correct? If so they need to be outside. Roses do not do well at all indoors. Also what roseseek has said. What else are you doing for this rose and how long have you had it?