22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Soooo, I'm to test before applying epsom salts, thanks. I tossed a handful on each plant at the beginning of the season for years. Also added a handful of Once fertilizer. Got tons of flowers for years but as I said the canes have gradually stopped producing. Come this Spring I'll cut off one of the old canes after the main bloom is finished.
I don't worry too much about the nitty gritty of things, to me, it's grow or go!!
Wirosarian, what is a good fertilizer? "feeding of some high N fertilizer (1-2 TBSP of a lawn fert.)" I can't find the Once on the market anymore.
Cecily, glad you liked the pictures. Our place POPs in the Spring.
Our robot lawn mower keeps the grass in check..... lol
Thanks everyone for the help, as you can tell I don't know much about roses so if you don't see it listed above and you know something that I should know by all means post it for me.
If done correctly, transplanting from a one to a three gallon can shouldn't disturb the roots. If you were keeping them in an UN heated garage, perhaps a three gallon soil ball around the roots might insulate them better against extremes in cold. If you're going to bury the cans in the ground, it would definitely be easier to dig gallon holes than three gallon holes. If encased in the ground, I doubt there would be any insulation benefit between a one and three gallon potted soil ball. Kim
Depending on your zone and the roses, I would pot up without disturbing the root ball. You can do the in and out thing til the first real frost . Then I would use the unheated greenhouse until ready for spring...then the in and out thing again. When u pot up do not loosen the soil from the root ball. Like any potted plant, just rough up the outer boundaries slightly before you plop it into the larger pot. I add soil before I take the baby out of the old pot and make a type of soil mold where the new one will go. Settle her in with water and more soil as needed.
I always go out of my way to make sure I specify a delivery date that I want. So far, over the past 10 years, every single one of the orders was delivered within a couple days of the date I specified.
Perhaps you left it up to the online nursery to decide when to send the rose. Some gardeners want their roses to come in the fall. Myself, I'd rather plant in the springtime.
Kate
@ hoov
I forgot to state that I actually tried that before to have them self-pollinate and I still get the same results: Dried up anthers with not a speck pollen on the stigmas. I even waited around for hips until the flower dried into a brown wand on the stem.
@Kim
Thank you for that useful information! I'll try that when the next blooms appear. (Hopefully my Center Gold blooms around the same time. I've read that it makes a good seed parent.) And yes, it has been more humid here than normal since it's the wet season right now.The humidity here was probably what kept my roses from releasing their pollen all year.
Hmmm, let's see now. In the evenings I love to mess around with my siamese and two tuxedo kitties. And I also love spending time with my two poodles. (little rascals all of them, hehe) Spending time on dog and cat forums, as well. In addition, I very much enjoy a glass of white wine or two--wish I had some now but unfortunately I don't. :p Reading. Spending time on various artistic sites and blogs on the web also gives me much pleasure. Of course there are many, many other things I delight in doing, but I probably shouldn't write a book about them on your thread, lol. This is a fun topic, Rene!! :-) It's a pity that the "Conversations" part of the "Roses Forum" has mostly gone the way of the dinosaurs. People seem to prefer spending time on facebook, or other places on the web in lieu of that. At one time it was a "hot" place to visit. Have a super evening, Rene, and all!!
Golden Celebration is one of the Austin roses I'm sure we'll always grow. Yes, lovely, upright, arching plants. And in our conditions, they are disease-free. (I think it can be troubled by blackspot, where that is a problem.)
The fragrance is wonderful, and the vase life is excellent, and the plants are an asset in the landscape.
For us, GC is bigger and more vigorous, and quicker to mature, on its own roots.
We have one from Hortico, on multiflora. It is occasionally touched by chlorosis, but that is transitory. 4 are on Huey. One is own-root.
Jeri
Newer foliage can often be lighter green until it matures. Lighter green can also indicate nutrient deficiencies or lack of light. Over watering can leach out nitrogen, making it more difficult to absorb sufficient iron. It all depends upon how the "light green" appears, where it occurs on the plant and how the plant appears in general. Many issues can express the same, or very similar, symptoms. Kim
We drove into town this morning, and it was overcast, with no sun peaking through.
It was a really interesting look at the trees that have grown over our roads. Many many of them are hackberry trees. It's an easy ID, because of the "shadows" under the trees on days with shade.
Look at your roads that are asphalt that is now a light gray. You'll see black on them as if it were shade, but it's not.
Repeating roses prepare for winter (insofar as they do prepare) by increasing the sugar content of stems in response to weeks of cooler weather. Do they do this more efficiently when they are growing or not growing? I guess the best answer is, nobody knows for sure, so do what suits you. It probably doesn't matter that much. However, if my roses had been defoliated by disease in August or September, I would want them growing in October, because they can't make sugar without green leaves. On the other hand, new reddish growth that is frozen represents a waste of plant energy.
One easy way of watering is to put in a drip system. I planted 30 roses and installed a drip system that has worked for over 15 years. Our place has chain length fence all around so I just attached the 1/2 inch plastic water line along the metal pipe that is on top of the fence. Took it up and over any trellis around the yard. On the lowest spots that would allow water to remain in the line I installed a 'T' with a open clamp. All I have to do is go around the yard opening and closing the clamps to drain the system. Instead of attaching the drippers to the main line I installed 1/4 inch lines (about 6 feet long) with the dripper on the end. That allowed me to move the dripper where it would do the most good. Drippers now come with adjustments on them to control the amount. Hook up a timer and forget about it. Most systems can handle up to 300 or more plants off a single water line. To go from the side of the house to the outer fence I just dug a 6 inch deep trench, laid the plastic pipe in it and covered it over. I'm sure it freezes each winter but the plastic must expand to allow for it as I've never had a break. Now and then a 1/4 inch may pop off or leak but a Goof Plug stops that. I just add another hole a couple inches away.
I'll leave the timing and amount you should water to the rest of the folks here as I don't know J about raising roses.