21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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anntn6b(z6b TN)

The theory is that the airborne mites will not recognize the leaves as rose leaves so they will choose to move on.

This was inspired by the mites being unwilling to stay on leaves of R. bracteata in laboratory experiments.

At least two rose growers in the central and eastern US have had lower RRD infection rates than they might have had otherwise possibly because of their use of antitranspirant sprays.

To try to answer Lainey's question, I'd need to know where Lainey lives. IF in east Tennessee, I'd start spraying antitranspirants in mid May, or if this heat hold, next week. Midsummer, if temps are above 70s at night, probably not, and then again in August September and maybe into October. This comes with no guarantees. But there is some logic behind it. The problem is, that conditions (local temps, temps in upwind areas where the mites are established, future winds) do vary continually.

This is an attempt to reduce disease pressure on a garden and it has some limited success.

    Bookmark   April 9, 2013 at 1:37PM
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lainey2(7a)

Thank you, anntn,
Actually my zone has changed to 7a, I'm in SW VA. So if night temperatures are above 70, don't spray wilt proof. If that correct?

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 10:47PM
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socks

Lucky you to have the space to move them around. (Lot of work, isn't it?)

I have 5 bushes too close together, an unfortunate clump in the center of the garden, but they seem to be one happy family getting plenty of sun, so I'm not "fixing" them!

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 7:16PM
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kittymoonbeam

I'm a mover too. I keep trying different spots. Some of the newer floribundas are big and I would call them shrubs. It used to be I knew what to expect but not anymore. And everything is bigger here so I have to guess.

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 10:03PM
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deervssteve(9)

The Atomist sprayer put out a heavy pressurized mist of materials. I would be able to coat the underside of the leaves. Nothing to treat lightly. My spray bottles and two gallon pump sprayer just do a spritz.

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 6:34PM
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susan4952(5)

Big guns.

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 9:56PM
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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

Glad to be of help.

I think to get good photos of pruning the plant needs to have a light wall or fence or some plain backdrop, otherwise it's hard to see the details.

jim1961, amazing rose!!! What is that?

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 9:21PM
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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

Hoovb,

That was an own-root Hydrid Tea Precious Platinum...
Sadly it started really declining in it's 4th year
with severe BS...Big time!
So in that sense not so amazing...
But no matter what you did to it that rose would come
back...lol

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 9:38PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Order the Bayer Rose, Flower, and Shrub Disease Control (tebuconazole fungicide only) by mail order if you need to. It is by far the best product for controlling blackspot.

Return the 3-in-1 if you haven't opened it. Insecticides should not be applied routinely to roses. Just pick off the beetles and drop them in soapy water.

The Ortho fungicide is fairly effective used every 7 days, so go ahead and use it up. But the Bayer product is effective used every 14 days, and it actually kills the blackspot body inside the leaf. During very hot, dry weather you can skip some sprayings and resume as soon as small black spots reappear. (Inspect frequently.)

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 10:18AM
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wreckitriz

I bought the bayer anti fungal concentrate at lowes. :) thanks everyone!

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 9:30PM
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seil zone 6b MI

No plastic bags for frost covers. I made the mistake once of covering plants with plastic tarps and had worse damage than the places where I didn't cover at all. If the plastic is touching the plant in any place it will freeze and burn the plant. Everything under that tarp was black (and died) when I pulled it off. The things outside the cover were only a little crisp around the edges and survived. Sheeting provides the needed cover but if it touches the plants won't transmit the cold and damage them.

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 1:41PM
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susan4952(5)

Thank you, Seil. That has never happened to me! Wonder if it is because the dry cleaner bags are very light weight and I always remove them first thing in the morning. I find them really useful for the budded out tops of my tree roses. I would CRY if those were damaged.

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 5:34PM
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ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9

Kitty, your pictures are beautiful. The retaining wall with shorter roses in front should finish off that area beautifully. I hope we'll see pictures when that area is finished. I'll be interested to find out what smaller roses you'll choose. Some of the short Austins and polyanthas would be lovely, or roses like Sweet Chariot, Blue Mist or Vineyard Song. You probably already have some great ideas of your own.

Ingrid

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 2:28PM
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floridarosez9

Every time I come on the forum, I have to look through everone's lovely pictures again. Hoov, I've decided you don't post enough pictures.

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 5:33PM
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Galway Bayjust starting to bloom
Posted by deervssteve(9) April 11, 2013
3 Comments
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deervssteve(9)

I've had it for over 20 years. At one time I had a a grouping of three but two were against a brick wall. We needed to have the wall supported and needed to take them out.
This one was the biggest and got up to 8 feet.

    Bookmark   April 11, 2013 at 10:43PM
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deervssteve(9)

more blooms

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 4:12PM
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kstrong(10 So Cal)

Thanks for the complements on the Mme Plantier/Geranium combo. Actually, when I did it, I wasn't even thinking about combos. I was thinking this is a boring rose 11 months of the year -- what can I put here that will be interesting the rest of the time? Geraniums bloom year around here, so that was the plan. Mme. Plantier only does that blooming thing for one month in June, and I actually put the rose there to hide the shed -- which it does very well. So most of the time, the rose is just providing a ladder for the geranium to hide the shed.

But that picture was three years ago, and those plants still are co-existing there just fine with very little care of any kind. Mme. Plantier doesn't even require spraying for mildew which makes it a rarity here.

And Debbie, with the morning glories, my advice is to take the whole yard out -- herbicide -- and then start over. The problem at my mother's house is she wants to save the roses -- but it would have been SO much easier to blast the whole thing and then replant the roses. And wear gloves. Morning glory sap is a strong allergen through skin. (stuff I learnt the hard way).

This post was edited by kstrong on Thu, Apr 11, 13 at 10:27

    Bookmark   April 11, 2013 at 10:06AM
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martinca_gw

So glad I posted this question. Catspa, I will NOT plant evrn the mini agapanthus, and I WILL plant some purple ivy geraniums in front of my big , white Banks climber......thanks to your gorgeous photo, kathy!

    Bookmark   April 13, 2013 at 1:12PM
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Campanula UK Z8

Well, Hey, another northerner (exiled to genteel Cambridge from t'other side of the Pennines from you (Oldham!....and I am never going back).
So yep, in agreement with everyone - pretend they have been bare-rooted and treat them as such - in the ground, plenty of watering for this summer and a dose of something heavy on the potassium at the end of the summer. As for the blooms, there is logic in removing new buds....but, I find that roses which have got mature top growth and fairly thick canes are less fragile than new cuttings or baby first year roses - the stored energy in the canes will mitigate the lack of feeder roots and moreover, the rose seems to have an innate 'sense' for how much blooming growth it can comfortably sustain - in our shorter, milder climate, it will flower quite sparingly, if much at all. Queen Elizabeth is a tall and vigorous rose for us in the UK (must be a giant in California).

    Bookmark   April 12, 2013 at 5:00PM
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roseblush1(8a/Sunset 7)

Camp....

Since I live further north and up in the mountains, I have a shorter growing season than when I lived in Socal. What an adjustment ... lol.

I found that I need to dis-bud all of my rose garden after the first rose curclio migrates into the garden and have found that the dis-budding does lead to stronger plants. That said, you brought up a very important point, and I do apologize. I should have qualified my post "in my climate". Thanks for the heads-up.

Smiles,
Lyn

PS... after I protected QE from deer last year, the rose jumped to 6' tall. We'll see what happens this year, since it is starting the season as a less "stressed" plant.

    Bookmark   April 12, 2013 at 7:07PM
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seil zone 6b MI

Oh, that is so sad to hear. I hate this stuff! I wonder if there will ever be a treatment for it, besides removal, that works.

    Bookmark   April 12, 2013 at 3:38PM
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donaldvancouver(cool wet z8)

Very beautiful.

As for cold hardiness, there's a comment on HMF that it survives zone 5 easily.

    Bookmark   April 11, 2013 at 9:12PM
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Terry Crawford

My 'Oshun' has survived -22F temps with no winter protection. I have found that once established, Oshun cannot make up its mind whether it wants to be a climber or a shrub...it has long canes that would take well to pillaring I think. I've grown 'Oshun' for 4 years...going on 5 now this Spring...and haven't had much dieback to speak of that I can recollect. I did find that it takes about 3 years to reach its growth potential.

    Bookmark   April 12, 2013 at 3:20PM
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joshtx(8a)

Absolutely a nervous daddy, I agree with the teasing. Lol. I'm just going to let her do her thing for now and she now she turns out. Her blooms opening it looks like so I'm just going to let her be. I'll keep y'all updated. Thanks to all who had input!

    Bookmark   March 30, 2013 at 9:25PM
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rosybunny

Kittymoonbeam:

Are you talking about Peace on own root or grafted?? We bought a grafted Peace almost two years ago, it's been struggling and still less than 2', quite pathetic especially when compared to the vigorous Honor bought at the same time.

We've fertilized Peace, watched out for it, it doesn't seem to have any disease, but just won't grow. Hubby and I are wondering if we should dig it up and put in a pot, letting someone else take up the nice spot (I have three babies from Heirloom who seem to be doing great).

    Bookmark   April 12, 2013 at 1:31PM
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martinca_gw

Big canes and, yep, thorns. Can't wait for the big blooms to come come.

    Bookmark   April 12, 2013 at 12:25PM
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nummykitchen

Oh wow, that is one happy rose bush! Your bloom is so pretty and has me even more excited about this one. Those are some huge buds!

I hope you share again when they open up! I bet it will be a showstopper!

Thanks for posting your pictures.

Andrea

    Bookmark   April 12, 2013 at 12:43PM
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kittymoonbeam

If you want to do a spray program then Rosemania has some good advice and protective gear. Please don't spray unless you are going to protect yourself. Blackspot is tough and needs tough chemicals to kill it. It hangs around on the stems and soil waiting to jump onto the leaves. Only certain sprays will kill it.

You can also encourage new vigorous growth of new leaves by feeding and watering, removing competing weeds and putting down a heavy mulch layer to cover up anything hanging around on the soil.

Some roses are more likely to get blackspot than others and some years are worse for blackspot than others.

    Bookmark   April 12, 2013 at 10:13AM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Those of us who live in bad blackspot territory (which Houston is) have the choice of selecting from the most resistant 1% of roses (and you can't trust catalog claims) or spraying. Spraying the Bayer Advanced fungicide containing only tebuconazole will stop the disease and keep your roses clean, but only if you reapply every two weeks. The exact product name is Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs. Don't accept anything else. Get a one-gallon pump-up tank sprayer with a spray wand.

The other thing is pruning and training. Your climbers will look much better and bloom much more if the canes are arched semi-horizontally and tied down to the fence. Remove a fraction of the oldest canes each year to encourage production of new canes from the base. Give them fertilizer and water.

    Bookmark   April 12, 2013 at 11:08AM
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