21,400 Garden Web Discussions | Roses


If you want to do a spray program then Rosemania has some good advice and protective gear. Please don't spray unless you are going to protect yourself. Blackspot is tough and needs tough chemicals to kill it. It hangs around on the stems and soil waiting to jump onto the leaves. Only certain sprays will kill it.
You can also encourage new vigorous growth of new leaves by feeding and watering, removing competing weeds and putting down a heavy mulch layer to cover up anything hanging around on the soil.
Some roses are more likely to get blackspot than others and some years are worse for blackspot than others.

Those of us who live in bad blackspot territory (which Houston is) have the choice of selecting from the most resistant 1% of roses (and you can't trust catalog claims) or spraying. Spraying the Bayer Advanced fungicide containing only tebuconazole will stop the disease and keep your roses clean, but only if you reapply every two weeks. The exact product name is Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs. Don't accept anything else. Get a one-gallon pump-up tank sprayer with a spray wand.
The other thing is pruning and training. Your climbers will look much better and bloom much more if the canes are arched semi-horizontally and tied down to the fence. Remove a fraction of the oldest canes each year to encourage production of new canes from the base. Give them fertilizer and water.


Body bags are hit or miss. I used to buy them and I still have a few in my yard. But many of them were virused and even if they did well the first year or two and bloomed, they would succumb to disease or winterkill (which is hard to do in my zone). I admit, I'm always tempted when I see them, but unless it's something very rare, I'd pass.
It's not that Costco sells bad stuff, but most people don't understand that the roses that are sold in bags are an inferior product than other ways to buy roses and are most likely what can't be sold to more discerning rose buyers. Hence the very low price.
And if you do buy bagged roses, soak them for a while before you plant. They've been in those bags for a long time with no water.

What you mainly have to worry about is the roots are likely to go in that direction because the soil is normally less compact directly around a pipe so as the roots look for places to grow to they naturally look for the direction of least resistance. The roots than can wrap around the pipe corroding the pipe which in turn can cause damange. Personally I would move the rose. If you call your gas company they will come out and stay with you as you remove the rose, and make sure where you move it to there are no pipes. While they are there they can show you where they pipes travel around your home so you will know in the future where you can dig, and where you can't. Normally the do this as a service, there is no cost.



I've never used it, but last year I saw something at Walmart that claimed to work as a mulch stabilizer. It's a spray that supposedly holds mulch in place without compromising water and air movement (ummmm, yeah, right). I have NO idea if it works, but you might check into it. It was called Barkbinder, or something similar.
John

Thank you all...I am so appreciative of this forum and how helpful everyone is!
There are a couple of the fungus looking white spots on the other cane--mostly on a few the laterals. Should I treat with a fungicide? If so which one?
Michael when do you plant your Spring bands? I intentionally waited until Fall thinking that would be better than shocking them in the heat of Summer...although perhaps I waited to late. Of the dozen I got last year this is the only one who seems less than happy. She is also probably the only one rated warmer than zone 6 so maybe just more fragile in my climate in general?

I ask for delivery around April 15 and transplant a week later after checking the 10-day forecast. If I need to place a subsequent order, the sooner, the better.
If you look closely at the white spots, they are probably shiny or silvery. The outermost layer of bark has died and the fungus may be inactive. I see this all the time and don't worry as long as the cane supports vigorous growth.

'Pam's Choice' has always been a modest shrub (as are most of the odd colored roses) but of decent vigor and hardiness. Mine has never exceeded four feet tall, and somewhat less wide. It blooms generously and the bloom color is a consistent blend of cool mauve and warm tan.
If Blackspot is a problem for roses where you are, then this rose will suffer from the disease, sometimes defoliating badly, so be prepared to deal with it, if necessary. I consider this a nice addition to this color range, but is far from perfect.

I too, wait for my forsythias to bloom. The last couple of weeks have been a torturous test of "the gardener's patience" because the forsythia has been blooming all over town, but not on any of the levels in my garden. I garden on a slope.
Seil ... thank you for telling me the "why if it" as to why the forsythia is such a great indicator plant. Maybe the wait won't be so awful knowing the the soil has not warmed up enough.
Lola ... I live in the mountains of northern California, but it's still California. Even with a couple of feet of snow covering the roses for over a month, I didn't get much die back, but my day temps don't drop below freezing (they do at the higher elevations) ... only the night temps. There is not one bud on any of my roses while the other Californians you referred to in your post are sharing photos of this year's roses. Ya' just can't lump us all together .... lol.
There are times when I am sooooooooooo jealous because I am looking at winter while they are looking at spring, but I also don't have to do gardening chores 13 months out of the year. I get an annual break.
My forsythias popped last week while it was raining and all of the roses are completely leafed out. The buds were swollen for several weeks, but the roses held off, too, until it was the right time to leaf out. That's why I am learning to ignore anything other than the forsythias.
Smiles,
Lyn

LOL...yep that's part of my pot ghetto on the floor in front of them :) There's also 2 more this size in the back, two 4x6 in the back, and one "real" greenhouse with actual panels and vents still boxed in my garage. That one is 8x12 I think. :)
Tammy

That's the kind I have too, the clear one from Biglots. I got it cheap during the friends and family sale. I put my house roses straight into it, and it made their leafs a little burned at first even though I watched them carefully, but I think they are used to it now.

Those spots don't look like mildew to me. Like Michael said It usually starts at the top on the new growth first and the leave sort of look dusted with powder not spotty.
That leaf damage could have been caused by a lot of things so don't spray anything until you know what it is. Spraying for an insect you haven't seen or identified is a waste of time and money and could kill potential helpers needlessly. Also, most insecticides are specific to certain insects and usually work on contact only. If you can't see them to ID and spray them you won't hit your target with the right stuff. Keep checking them and look for the insect and photograph it so we can ID it and then you'll know what to use specifically for that insect.
That doesn't even look exactly chewed but more torn. I don't know what kind of weather you've had but that could be just frost or storm damage too.


Thanks for the replies. I first saw the pic on heirloom and loved it. Then the fact it had fragrance and hips added to it. It's just that I don't always trust what the seller says, although all the other roses I have planted from Heirloom has pretty much performed the way they said.It would be nice if it was continuous bloom but I would be happy with a repeat.

Deb....
I have brought forward as much information as I could from the listed REFERENCES on HMF to the rose page.
HMF is very much a work-in-progress, just like our gardens, and there was a time when we could not add plant characteristics to the main rose page. Of course, there were tens-of-thousands of roses already in the database when this feature was added. It's going to take years to bring all of that information forward for all of the roses.
In the meantime, I suggest you do check the REFERENCES on the rose page, (if we have them ... there was a time when we didn't have that feature, too.) for additional information.
From what I have read about 'Scabrosa' in other sources, it's a solid plant and can be a wonderful garden rose.
Smiles,
Lyn








Absolutely a nervous daddy, I agree with the teasing. Lol. I'm just going to let her do her thing for now and she now she turns out. Her blooms opening it looks like so I'm just going to let her be. I'll keep y'all updated. Thanks to all who had input!
Kittymoonbeam:
Are you talking about Peace on own root or grafted?? We bought a grafted Peace almost two years ago, it's been struggling and still less than 2', quite pathetic especially when compared to the vigorous Honor bought at the same time.
We've fertilized Peace, watched out for it, it doesn't seem to have any disease, but just won't grow. Hubby and I are wondering if we should dig it up and put in a pot, letting someone else take up the nice spot (I have three babies from Heirloom who seem to be doing great).