22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Hi Bart--have you notified technical help (Tamora) that you are having trouble with the links in the box under the message box? Be as specific as you can so they have some idea what they are looking for. Tamora usually answers fairly quickly and politely to at least let you know what is wrong or that they are working on it.
Good luck.
Kate
Thanks everyone for chiming in. I will wait until spring and plant my new roses then. Official reason is that it's safer for the roses, the real reason is that I am not nearly at a point where I can plant them... it's called procrastination...lol
Next spring...:-)
Thanks again folks!!
Many of my plantings are of cuttings. When I expect frost, they are covered with 2 L pop bottles. In late winter, the bottle caps are removed during the day. Some years, I keep the cuttings in pots, also with pop bottles over them, and overwinter them under oak leaves along the foundation of my house to, as Mad Gallica says, plant roses with larger root systems. Both fall planting of the little ones, and keeping them in pots over winter, seems to work equally well. Yellow roses are the trickiest to keep alive.
Steve
This guy has an interesting approach...lol
Here is a link that might be useful: Getting rid of fungus gnats
Anything can be grown in a pot. The pot just has to be the right size, and in the case of zone 5, winter protection is needed. The usual recommendation for roses is a pot at least 20" in diameter for a non-baby rose. If it proves to needs more space than 20", at that point you get a bigger pot.
I revived this because I was just outside cutting a gorgeous bloom from Voodoo to bring in the house, and thinking about how much I appreciate that rose...
It has a very leafy-shrubby habit for a HT, and is a bloom machine, at least for me. It gets a little PM but no BS/cercospora/anything else, however I'm 20 minutes from the water so roses have to be genetic freaks to NOT get PM here.
It has a great fragrance and vase life too...if you haven't thought of it, I'd highly recommend it.
I adore my Honeysweet. Most unusual color, no blackspot for me, blooms lots. Its a Buck rose and tough. One of my favorite apricots is the Austin Carding Mill. I understand Chamblees will be carrying that soon own root - I plan to get several. I adore Fragrant Apricot [Roses Unlimited]. I had Belle Epoque a while back but wasn't that crazy about the color. When it died, I wasn't interested in replacing it, but that was just my opinion - you might love it. I adore apricots and love the pure, clear color such as Carding Mill, Tamora, Just Joey. If I ever ran across a good plant of Just Joey I would get it - have seen photos of huge blooms, but understand the bush is gangly. The blooms would make up for it........
Yes, I would describe it as apple green. None of mine are terribly thick yet, but new growth is very flexible. Thanks for the advice regarding the water Kim. Michael I will grab a leaf or two in the morning and post them, thanks. Jackie that is encouraging. I shouldn't have to wait long. Roses do much better here in the winter, so when it cools down it may bloom in it's 5th year.
I overwinter many in the garage. I believe the rule is 3 nights of 32 in a row before they are brought in. Usually after thanksgiving in my zone.I have a garden trolley so I can bring them in and out in early winter and spring. I keep them off of the cement but I believe there is no real reason for this via MichaelG. I keep them in a corner away from the windows, bit there is still diffused light. I also water once a month. If they begin to sprout too early it is the soft green growth, and I pinch it off before the official outdoor growing season begins. You should also be aware of aphids and such in the spring and treat accordingly. The most important thing about dormancy for any rose is making sure it is as healthy as possible before it goes to sleep....and prayer...lol. I try to mimic the weather for dormancy minus the gruesome temps and gale force winds.
This post was edited by susan4952 on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 22:54
Our curled rose slugs need to read this info because they are here in our garden from May until frosts...
I had them id-ed at Penn State University a few years back...
We have regular rose slugs also but there only here for about 4-6 weeks or so...
This post was edited by jim1961 on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 22:48
Michael's right, that the dividing line of 1867 doesn't make a whole bunch of sense -- and to be honest, I'm not sure it ever did.
We typically discuss under the "Old Rose" umbrella classes Species roses. We also include classes such as the Polyanthas, and what ARS defines as "Classic Shrubs" (which includes the HMs).
Given the age of the early HTs, I mentally fold them into that group. 'Lady Mary Fitzwilliam,' (see below, collected as "Whittle-Byer") 'Mme. Caroline Testout,' et al -- they're old enough for ME.
Jeri
Andrea - I have lots of large trees too. One thing my DH and I have done is find a sunny spot (usually a corner next to the house) of the driveway that the cars don't actually ever drive on. Then he digs up the paving, so that there is a circle of dirt. Then he digs up the dirt so it is soft. Then we get a LARGE pot and he takes off the bottom, or drills lots of large holes in the bottom of it, and we plant a rose there. Eventually the roots go down into the real dirt and the rose goes up, and is very happy.
Here is a picture of the old tea rose Anna Olivier growing in just such a place - there is only about 15 inches between the wall of the house you can see and the driveway. This rose was planted actually in a rectangular planter (with its bottom cut out as described) in that space 15 years ago, and it is still very happy.
Jackie
That kind of mottling indicates that the leaves are just dying without being killed by fungus or infected by virus. You can expect some old leaves to die like that normally, but not that many. I think it is probably overwatering. You should repot into a 16" pot, remove any sour soil and rotted roots, and LOSE THE GRAVEL LAYER. You will have to trust me on this, but it is established beyond doubt that "drainage layers" make drainage worse. They create a saturated layer in the potting soil just above.
Then water less often than you have been. The sign of underwatering would be that the plant stops growing and shoots go "blind" without flowering.
Dormant: not growing. The new growth will be burnt--you will prune that off in spring. Mature leaves of repeat-blooming roses will not drop in fall but will be injured by temperatures around 10 or 15, This is not a true deciduous dormancy; the roses will grow out whenever temperatures average above 40 for a while.
Terra cotta pots may break when exposed to temperatures below 20 for some hours because the rootball expands when frozen. It may be OK under a pile of leaves.
Again, you should take the rose outside and grow it normally for the next month or so.
I have the peach Drift rose and love it. I planted mine mid July I think it was or early August and its been full of blooms ever since. Its also doubled in size since I've planted it. I bought a red drift a few weeks ago and its not in as sunny a spot as the peach so its not looking as good as the peach. The blooms are much smaller on the red than the peach. I mean super tiny but cute. Since I planted the red later than the peach I didn't expect the red to be the same size as the peach. They are both much bigger than they were when I planted them. So far no sign of any disease. No bug damage and no BS. My regular roses are all dealing with BS problems and I do have to spray them. I've never sprayed my drift roses nor have I used any fertilizers and they look a lot healthier than any other rose in my garden.
Next year I plan on buying a few more Drift roses in different colors. I really like the one called popcorn drift. Its white with some yellow and does look like a partially popped kernel of corn.