22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Our curled rose slugs need to read this info because they are here in our garden from May until frosts...
I had them id-ed at Penn State University a few years back...
We have regular rose slugs also but there only here for about 4-6 weeks or so...
This post was edited by jim1961 on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 22:48
Michael's right, that the dividing line of 1867 doesn't make a whole bunch of sense -- and to be honest, I'm not sure it ever did.
We typically discuss under the "Old Rose" umbrella classes Species roses. We also include classes such as the Polyanthas, and what ARS defines as "Classic Shrubs" (which includes the HMs).
Given the age of the early HTs, I mentally fold them into that group. 'Lady Mary Fitzwilliam,' (see below, collected as "Whittle-Byer") 'Mme. Caroline Testout,' et al -- they're old enough for ME.
Jeri
Andrea - I have lots of large trees too. One thing my DH and I have done is find a sunny spot (usually a corner next to the house) of the driveway that the cars don't actually ever drive on. Then he digs up the paving, so that there is a circle of dirt. Then he digs up the dirt so it is soft. Then we get a LARGE pot and he takes off the bottom, or drills lots of large holes in the bottom of it, and we plant a rose there. Eventually the roots go down into the real dirt and the rose goes up, and is very happy.
Here is a picture of the old tea rose Anna Olivier growing in just such a place - there is only about 15 inches between the wall of the house you can see and the driveway. This rose was planted actually in a rectangular planter (with its bottom cut out as described) in that space 15 years ago, and it is still very happy.
Jackie
That kind of mottling indicates that the leaves are just dying without being killed by fungus or infected by virus. You can expect some old leaves to die like that normally, but not that many. I think it is probably overwatering. You should repot into a 16" pot, remove any sour soil and rotted roots, and LOSE THE GRAVEL LAYER. You will have to trust me on this, but it is established beyond doubt that "drainage layers" make drainage worse. They create a saturated layer in the potting soil just above.
Then water less often than you have been. The sign of underwatering would be that the plant stops growing and shoots go "blind" without flowering.
Dormant: not growing. The new growth will be burnt--you will prune that off in spring. Mature leaves of repeat-blooming roses will not drop in fall but will be injured by temperatures around 10 or 15, This is not a true deciduous dormancy; the roses will grow out whenever temperatures average above 40 for a while.
Terra cotta pots may break when exposed to temperatures below 20 for some hours because the rootball expands when frozen. It may be OK under a pile of leaves.
Again, you should take the rose outside and grow it normally for the next month or so.
I love these photos of your giants, kitty. I guess this time of year must be the "stretch" season, even up here. Many of my roses have gone nothing short of berserk in shooting up. Of course in Idaho, it will come to a dead stop when winter arrives. Diane
In Ohio, I would definitely wait til spring. If you order bare roots, you can plant them in early April. If you order potted plants, you will have to wait until about the end of May (after last freeze date) to plant them.
That drought got a few of my special plants also! @#$%*!
Kate
No - it turns out that any instructions that start with the phrase "you must..." are completely bogus - no one I know removes leaves, or dormant sprays here. If you had some sort of infestation like scale, then I might dormant spray, but not otherwise. There are endless "rules" about how you must do certain things, and all of them (except providing adequate water, sun, and food) have been debunked in the last 10 years.
I would just prune your HTs lightly, as you said, as they are babies. I feed my roses in Jan when I prune them with a time release fertilizer, because I am lazy. Others concoct all sorts of home made and/or expensive recipes - up to you. The only other thing I do which I do think is important is to mulch around the roses (making sure the mulch does not touch the base of the rose) 2-3 inches in the Spring, so that they can survive our hot & dry Summers.
Relax - see what works - no one is grading your paper!
Jackie
Perfect!!!
I use a good compost as a top dressing. It works great and looks fine. I do this twice a year. I probably don't have as many roses as you do (21) so I have time to feed them every month or so. I use Dr. Earth Rose Fertilizer.
Thank you so much for your clear and concise answer.
andrea
Our dear, dear, DeervsSteve, sooo very sorry, hon!!! The agony of it! :(
Johnny Cabot, re: "...Steve, what patience you have..."
I think Steve's long suffering patience is fortified with venison. ;)
And as to the long standing JB attacks on your beloved roses...my heart goes out to you, "big time". Stinkin' buggers!!! :(
This post was edited by dove_song on Tue, Sep 24, 13 at 16:49
My deer don't migrate.
I love this time of year, too, because I can stay outside longer than I can during the summer high temps. Of course, there are tons of fall chores to be done.
I still have some blooms in the garden and the leaves on the trees have not started turning, but I am thinking it is going to be a short fall and a long winter.
Smiles,
Lyn
Some people cover there garage windows so the light doesn't kick-start the roses to grow.
This post was edited by jim1961 on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 10:35
I overwinter many in the garage. I believe the rule is 3 nights of 32 in a row before they are brought in. Usually after thanksgiving in my zone.I have a garden trolley so I can bring them in and out in early winter and spring. I keep them off of the cement but I believe there is no real reason for this via MichaelG. I keep them in a corner away from the windows, bit there is still diffused light. I also water once a month. If they begin to sprout too early it is the soft green growth, and I pinch it off before the official outdoor growing season begins. You should also be aware of aphids and such in the spring and treat accordingly. The most important thing about dormancy for any rose is making sure it is as healthy as possible before it goes to sleep....and prayer...lol. I try to mimic the weather for dormancy minus the gruesome temps and gale force winds.
This post was edited by susan4952 on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 22:54