22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I've gotten doubles from Chamblees also. Noticed them when the dirt fell off while planting them.They were tiny but have grown beautifully since planting separately.Nice of them thou since if one is weaker and doesn't make it. Chances are the other will grow fine.
I guess its difficult to keep track of large stocks of roses. K&M would not be the first to send out a mislabeled rose. LOL Oh well, it could be worse. But I do still want Christopher Marlowe, I'll see if they have it next season. I wish they would have a sale. Their roses are of excellent quality and I'd even say fair price, especially for what you get and on Fortuniana, but shipping is super expensive.
But to tell you the truth, its worth it. They carry a huge stock of Austins and besides Cool Roses here in Fl (which only has certain varieties and of limited stock) there really is no other source for Austins on Fortuniana.
Yesterday afternoon I walked a couple of streets looking at all the roses in the front yards of people and did not see anymore RRD but did see some probable herbicide damage that bears watching.
The HOA sent emails to the members and showed pictures of RRD damage and herbicide damage. It seems we have a couple of master gardners in the subdivision and the HOA has invited them to prepare a presentation for a community meeting.
The HOA is currently removing all KOs in common grounds and replacing them with native plants. It'll be sad to see the loss of all those beautiful blooms all spring and fall but RRD is such a major problem here they feel that is the only way they can arrest it.
Wish newscasts would help. We've had at least one recently, but the two heart shaped knock out rose planting at LoveField airport are severely infected and have been so for about 2 years. No blooms this year, just the ugly diseased foliage and they just keep shearing them back. Similar plantings across the street became diseased and were removed. Not sure what the delay is in ripping them out. Here, it's an epidemic.
There are not many rose gardeners around, we need all the help we can get. Some newscasts might help to educate public. Someone from my rose club has RRD landed on the wild roses on his property (about half acre of wide roses). He couldn't take care of them by himself, called county, but got no help from them. I tried to get him to call the TV stations.
OK. I will get some. Now how would it go into my spray rotation. I normally use Bayer once a month and Honor Guard once a month leaving a two week interval between the two.
I do have some that have had sick leaves for a long time, but I have a new Quietness that I noticed this morning is starting to get the tiny yellow triangle at the tip. It hasn't got the ugly brown part yet. Until you had posted that it was a fungus I thought it was probably insects, due to the fact I was already using two types of fungicides.
Thanks for the info. It is always appreciated.
I haven't noticed the chevron symptom on Quietness. Maybe it is something else.
Remember, I'm not giving you a firm diagnosis. That would need to come from a path lab. Actually insects (leafhoppers) cause the chevrons on some plants by damaging the midrib on the underside. I have looked for this bite damage on rose leaflets and not seen it. Also suggestive of fungus is it being confined to certain varieties, usually tending to be glossy-leaved and blackspot-resistant.
I think you could tank-mix Daconil with the conazole fungicide if the weather is not extremely hot. Both are chemically rather stable.
Nice photos, Jacquie! I like the Liatris behind the roses. For me, in my zone 5 Nebraska garden, The Generous Gardener is a floppy biggish bush that might only be 4 feet high but the canes reach out 6-8 feet to the side for something to climb on. Mine happens to be at the bottom of an arch with real climbers behind it, so I tuck the canes of TGG into the arch to keep them out of the way but put them horizontal so it'll bloom more on laterals (hopefully). Mine is about 6 years old and at best it has maybe 2 or 3 flushes a year. It has quite notable winter dieback - the canes don't look cankered but are dark brown inside - and it's a bit slow to come back from regrowing. The pictures below are a section of the bush this week that show a fairly lackluster bloom cycle.
In a really mild winter like we had before 2013, and TGG had surviving cane, it did want to climb. Here it is on the arch looking white among a variety of other climbers (the white on the tripod in front of it isn't TGG - it's Crown Princess Margaretha). That's the best it's ever looked, as well as the biggest, and I don't think it rebloomed at all that year.
I think your plan to have a tripod over it sounds good given its growth habit. In most zone 5 years, it wouldn't cover an arch like the photo above, but it would appreciate something to hang on. It's a nice enough rose, but I would put it behind other roses so it can shine when it's nice and not be annoying when it just sits there.
Cynthia
Asclepias incarnata is the one that does well up here.
Diane... I was raised on a farm and the day was you could always see milkweed on the fence rows and ditches. Those days are gone. When I mentioned the farmer that was spraying. Later that night on the local news they mentioned the farmers were spraying a mix of liquid ammonium and a herbicide. Every house and yard in the block east of the field was getting hit with it.
It certainly won't do much good to plant it if they hit it with herbicides
yeah, I second michealg:MUCH better to wait until the plants are dormant!!!
You mention when the nights turn cooler. That's the time to move them since you can't wait until dormancy. I'd take a radical approach. Cut them back to around 12" high, strip the leaves and then move them as soon as the nights turn cool. After you move them water them in well but no fertilizer. Particularly not nitrogen. As per Jack Falker's recommendation about 6 weeks before your first frost date give them a dose of potassium once a week.
This will give them a chance to set some roots beforehand. Hopefully you can dig up a decent rootball aka my video but this will still give the rose time to settle in. Come winter I'd mound the parts of the canes sticking out of the ground to within 2-3" of their tips. That should keep them healthy until you can plant them after the work is done.