22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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moroseaz

Kim, thanks for the clarification on musk and multiflora. We're also told that multiflora doesn't do well in our climate and having ordered some multiflora rooted roses several years ago, I can attest that every one of them has since died. The Ballerina was inherited about 15 years ago and is own-root. Had to have a cage built for it to keep it from overtaking the rest of that bed and keep it up off the ground. I don't prune it much 'til the new spring growth comes out and then only take out the dead stuff that I can reach. The nuisance rose in my garden is Belle Amore. It was grown from a cutting and is well over 6ft tall and grows wherever it doggone well pleases. Could be in the neighbors yard by now, too.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 5:28PM
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rross(NSW Aust)

I planted Ebb Tide the night before the most hideously hot day of the summer. It survived 45 degrees Celsius (113 degrees F). It's now the only rose blooming in my garden in the middle of winter.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 10:00PM
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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

Are the leaves of the species succulent?

No they are not succulent.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 2:54PM
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susan4952(5)

It is totally cute!

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 7:45PM
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ratdogheads(5b NH)

Alain Blanchard? I don't grow it, but it's caught my eye; I enjoy the unusual.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 10:50AM
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TNY78(7a-East TN)

Pretty! I don't think I've ever seen that heaving stippling on a single! Love it!

Tammy

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 7:25PM
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roseseek(9)

It's quite possible what they are selling are "maidens". Usually, a newly budded rose (maiden) is simply one shoot. They are traditionally pinched or pruned back to the first bud to encourage them to branch. Each bud has a 'guard bud' on either side of it. The maiden's shoot is the central bud, the usual one which grows when you prune to a bud. Cutting that off stimulates the two guard buds (one on either side) to break into growth, producing the two branches we're most often used to seeing on a new bare root.

If these are maidens, yes, it is possible for them to produce good, heavy plants. As long as the variety is one which is genetically capable of producing that kind of plant; it's grown and pruned properly, it should result in a decent plant. They are probably taking the lazy way out by selling maidens. That way, they don't have to do the initial pinch nor wait for them to produce the usual branched new growth. The real down side is a maiden is often a weaker bud union because it is younger and only one cane, so its base is smaller with a smaller contact area to the root stock. That makes it more easily damaged or even destroyed. But, it SHOULD be a lower price plant than a Grade 1 bare root. Kim

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 4:32PM
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dmny(z7 NY)

It's also possible your soil may be deficient in magnesium sulfate. Try sprinkling a couple of tbs. of epsom salts around the drip-line of the rose. It may help in producing some basal breaks that will turn into new canes for you.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 4:34PM
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nickl(Z7a NJ)

We have never deadheaded our Knock Out rose - more than ten years old now . We do occasionally trim out the spent clusters on our Pink Double KO and our Blushing KO because they are much more visible from the walkway and we try to keep them looking neat. We haven't noticed any difference in the repeat cycle either way

In fact, we don't do much pruning at all with any of them - just maintenance.

I think it's mainly a matter of personal preference. It is nowhere near as critical for them as it is with the HTs, floribundas. climbers, and the like.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 2:55PM
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dmny(z7 NY)

Thank you all for your input and suggestions.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 4:21PM
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dublinbay z6 (KS)

huh?

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 1:20PM
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Chaoticdreams(8)

I'm not sure if that'd be a joke or a silent wish for death........

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 2:39PM
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socks

The STL is going to be beautiful when those buds open up! Congrats on your success with your first rose. Since it's doing so well, why not move the lilac?

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 9:44AM
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DNTQuilter

Well, the second round of buds are coming on my Peace and JFK roses. I am now thinking that I had a senior moment in remember which bush I placed where.

I'm starting to agree that my picture posted in this thread is actually the Peace Rose, as the new blooms on the other rose look more like JFK this time around.

I am so annoyed with myself.

Scott in PA

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 8:13PM
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view1ny NY 6-7

Scott, thanks for the first laugh of the day! enjoy your roses wherever they are planted.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 7:35AM
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donaldvancouver(cool wet z8)

Navy Lady is very dark and very hardy.

Here is a link that might be useful: Navy Lady on HMF

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 9:56PM
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monarda_gw

This past Sunday, Bayses Purple looked fantastic at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden in deep shade. It was covered with flowers. The previous times I saw it I thought it was pretty sparsely flowered, but now it has reached a mature old age and is doing its thing, I guess.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bayses Purple in a German catalog

    Bookmark     June 21, 2013 at 1:08AM
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farmerduck

I planted it a few month ago, and it has not budded yet. I did get to see a few specimans at the Rockfeller Rose Garden in the Bronx in full bloom: they look great. However, because of the name, I have high expectation for this rose. But what I saw is a tad ordinary. I am sure they are great roses, but I serectly was hoping for something with a little more that extra something because of the name....

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 8:26PM
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Jim_in_AV

Beth, FM is one of the few light roses I have that the thrips did not seem to like.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 11:25PM
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henryinct

Roses from nurseries in places where BS is prevalent will all end up with BS because they don't spray. By the time you see it it will be too late but you can stop it in its' tracks by spraying. Buy the best bud union with the most and strongest looking canes and assume there is BS and begin spraying immediately.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 7:49PM
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roseseek(9)

Even where and when BS isn't an issue, it often will be in a nursery setting. No matter how good the cultural practices are, the plants are going to be stressed, impairing their immune systems. Crowding together in nursery rows fosters the perfect conditions for stressed plants to fall victim to the issues. Only in the absolute best of conditions can diseases be reduced without chemical intervention and those are rare, indeed. In Visalia, at Sequoia Nursery, black spot was seldom an issue anywhere in the nursery, except for the sales area where the plants were immature, stressed in too-small pots and crowded together either in green houses or out under shade cloth, all of which tremendously raising the humidity. Even when sprayed regularly, enclosing the plants inside boxes which raised the humidity even more, created the perfect Petri dishes for the fungi to germinate and proliferate.

If the diseases are that great an issue where you are, you may have to resort to spraying. Fortunately, where I am, they aren't. I have often been able to reduce, even eliminate the problems by defoliating new plants I bring into the garden and placing them in filtered light until they push new foliage. Not a 'cure all' but it has definitely worked quite well for many years and without anything smelly, expensive, potentially dangerous and toxic nor requiring the effort of actually DOING the spraying. Kim

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 8:08PM
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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

BD is tallish but wider than tall here. The wall is 6' tall.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 10:17AM
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seil zone 6b MI

My Quietness only gets about 3 1/2 to 4 feet high but can spread 5 ft easy. This picture is kind of deceptive because you can't see how deep it really is.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 7:45PM
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seil zone 6b MI

I like the new look. Seems easier to navigate too.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 7:17PM
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dottnmd(z6bMD)

Tammy, I am going from 10 acres to 1 acre, LOL. We are moving 15 mins away. I hope someone chimes in. I can't wait till mine go dormant unfortunately and I am not much good at rooting lately.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 4:09PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Traditionally, before the technology of refrigerating them was developed, most new roses were planted as bare-roots in the late fall. Transplanting roses as bare-roots is much the easiest way to do it. In your zone, there is a risk that a warm December could cause roses to grow out, freeze back, and deplete the plants or even kill some of them. However, that's the way I'd do it, as opposed to the expense and labor of potting. Just dig them with 12" roots and canes, strip all leaves, label them and bag them. Store in the shade until you can plant. They should keep well at temperatures mostly between 25 and 40 degrees Remove any growth buds that break before spring. After planting, spray the canes with dormant-strength Wilt Pruf.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 5:11PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Dr. Earth #3 is 5% N, alfalfa is 3% N. So you could use a cup of DE or 1.5 cups of alfalfa every couple of months during seasons of active growth. Either would have about the same effect. Half-life of slow N is about 6 months. It takes 2-3 weeks to get going, depending on temperature. Blood meal would be for a booster.

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 4:04PM
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andreark

Thanks. I think I will continue using Dr. E every 6 to 8 weeks, then a couple of TBSPs of bloodmeal only occasionally. I will post the results (photos) in a month or two.

Thank you all for the help. I'm having a great time with these beauties.

andrea

    Bookmark     June 20, 2013 at 4:44PM
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