22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
It's quite possible what they are selling are "maidens". Usually, a newly budded rose (maiden) is simply one shoot. They are traditionally pinched or pruned back to the first bud to encourage them to branch. Each bud has a 'guard bud' on either side of it. The maiden's shoot is the central bud, the usual one which grows when you prune to a bud. Cutting that off stimulates the two guard buds (one on either side) to break into growth, producing the two branches we're most often used to seeing on a new bare root.
If these are maidens, yes, it is possible for them to produce good, heavy plants. As long as the variety is one which is genetically capable of producing that kind of plant; it's grown and pruned properly, it should result in a decent plant. They are probably taking the lazy way out by selling maidens. That way, they don't have to do the initial pinch nor wait for them to produce the usual branched new growth. The real down side is a maiden is often a weaker bud union because it is younger and only one cane, so its base is smaller with a smaller contact area to the root stock. That makes it more easily damaged or even destroyed. But, it SHOULD be a lower price plant than a Grade 1 bare root. Kim
We have never deadheaded our Knock Out rose - more than ten years old now . We do occasionally trim out the spent clusters on our Pink Double KO and our Blushing KO because they are much more visible from the walkway and we try to keep them looking neat. We haven't noticed any difference in the repeat cycle either way
In fact, we don't do much pruning at all with any of them - just maintenance.
I think it's mainly a matter of personal preference. It is nowhere near as critical for them as it is with the HTs, floribundas. climbers, and the like.
Well, the second round of buds are coming on my Peace and JFK roses. I am now thinking that I had a senior moment in remember which bush I placed where.
I'm starting to agree that my picture posted in this thread is actually the Peace Rose, as the new blooms on the other rose look more like JFK this time around.
I am so annoyed with myself.
Scott in PA
Navy Lady is very dark and very hardy.
Here is a link that might be useful: Navy Lady on HMF
This past Sunday, Bayses Purple looked fantastic at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden in deep shade. It was covered with flowers. The previous times I saw it I thought it was pretty sparsely flowered, but now it has reached a mature old age and is doing its thing, I guess.
Here is a link that might be useful: Bayses Purple in a German catalog
I planted it a few month ago, and it has not budded yet. I did get to see a few specimans at the Rockfeller Rose Garden in the Bronx in full bloom: they look great. However, because of the name, I have high expectation for this rose. But what I saw is a tad ordinary. I am sure they are great roses, but I serectly was hoping for something with a little more that extra something because of the name....
Roses from nurseries in places where BS is prevalent will all end up with BS because they don't spray. By the time you see it it will be too late but you can stop it in its' tracks by spraying. Buy the best bud union with the most and strongest looking canes and assume there is BS and begin spraying immediately.
Even where and when BS isn't an issue, it often will be in a nursery setting. No matter how good the cultural practices are, the plants are going to be stressed, impairing their immune systems. Crowding together in nursery rows fosters the perfect conditions for stressed plants to fall victim to the issues. Only in the absolute best of conditions can diseases be reduced without chemical intervention and those are rare, indeed. In Visalia, at Sequoia Nursery, black spot was seldom an issue anywhere in the nursery, except for the sales area where the plants were immature, stressed in too-small pots and crowded together either in green houses or out under shade cloth, all of which tremendously raising the humidity. Even when sprayed regularly, enclosing the plants inside boxes which raised the humidity even more, created the perfect Petri dishes for the fungi to germinate and proliferate.
If the diseases are that great an issue where you are, you may have to resort to spraying. Fortunately, where I am, they aren't. I have often been able to reduce, even eliminate the problems by defoliating new plants I bring into the garden and placing them in filtered light until they push new foliage. Not a 'cure all' but it has definitely worked quite well for many years and without anything smelly, expensive, potentially dangerous and toxic nor requiring the effort of actually DOING the spraying. Kim
Traditionally, before the technology of refrigerating them was developed, most new roses were planted as bare-roots in the late fall. Transplanting roses as bare-roots is much the easiest way to do it. In your zone, there is a risk that a warm December could cause roses to grow out, freeze back, and deplete the plants or even kill some of them. However, that's the way I'd do it, as opposed to the expense and labor of potting. Just dig them with 12" roots and canes, strip all leaves, label them and bag them. Store in the shade until you can plant. They should keep well at temperatures mostly between 25 and 40 degrees Remove any growth buds that break before spring. After planting, spray the canes with dormant-strength Wilt Pruf.
Dr. Earth #3 is 5% N, alfalfa is 3% N. So you could use a cup of DE or 1.5 cups of alfalfa every couple of months during seasons of active growth. Either would have about the same effect. Half-life of slow N is about 6 months. It takes 2-3 weeks to get going, depending on temperature. Blood meal would be for a booster.
Kim, thanks for the clarification on musk and multiflora. We're also told that multiflora doesn't do well in our climate and having ordered some multiflora rooted roses several years ago, I can attest that every one of them has since died. The Ballerina was inherited about 15 years ago and is own-root. Had to have a cage built for it to keep it from overtaking the rest of that bed and keep it up off the ground. I don't prune it much 'til the new spring growth comes out and then only take out the dead stuff that I can reach. The nuisance rose in my garden is Belle Amore. It was grown from a cutting and is well over 6ft tall and grows wherever it doggone well pleases. Could be in the neighbors yard by now, too.
I planted Ebb Tide the night before the most hideously hot day of the summer. It survived 45 degrees Celsius (113 degrees F). It's now the only rose blooming in my garden in the middle of winter.