22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Camp,
A friend in Texas had an absolutely gorgeous one, for about four years. I saw it at its peak performance, over 4'x5', thick, healthy, absolutely covered in bloom the Spring of 2009. Stunning (and I hate that word). I was back to visit this year, and it was GONE. In three years it had grown backward and failed to sprout this year. Of course they've had horrible drought, and record heat; but he irrigates and out of 100 roses, this and two others are all he's lost. It's a prima donna, evidently.
John
What Michael said unless you're talking about pruning them to move them. If they are very large roses it may be a good idea to prune them back a little to move them. No matter how careful you are you will probably lose some of the feeder roots when you dig them up. Cutting them back some will place less stress on the rose to supply nutrients to a big bush when it has fewer roots to do it with. Climbers in particular may need to be pruned down since those canes are so long. A smaller root ball will have a tough time getting water and nutrients all the way out to the ends.
But, I do agree with Michael that fall is not the time to prune roses if you are in a cold climate. Is there any way this move can be put off until early spring? In the early spring before they leaf out you can prune them back and move them with little problem. They'll wake up in their new spots and just begin to grow from there.
What seil said.
But to answer question 2, if you prune HTs low, you will have green leaves nearly to the ground, but you will have a small plant in May-June and thus fewer blooms. It may catch up in late summer. If you prune HTs high, you'll have mostly bare legs up to that level, but a bigger plant and better first flush. Very low is 8", or to the ground if there is severe winter damage. Very high is 36"-40".
Yes, this is the marketing group that brought us the Dream Roses. Their most successful rose promotion was Flower Carpet but that's losing steam now. They have to find a new nitch to stay in roses. They also have promoted other successes and failures. Tropicana canna being one of the better.
At this point, the owners of the J&P name are in fast & furious mode, bent on cashing-in to the max on the last, tattered vestiges of what once was a premium brand.
It's past time for all of us to recognize (and to inform others) that Jackson & Perkins is no longer a reputable source for roses.
Karolina11: ". . . (W)hy would their experts advise differently"?, you asked. There are no experts of the kind you have in mind left at J&P.
If you are having soil problems, try putting in a raised bed with good soil. Your ph needs to be 6.3-6.5. IF you can't get it there you will have discolored leaves. There are ph charts you can see that shows you what nutrients get locked up at what ph level.
I have a small no spray garden,so I am very selective about what roses I plant as I live in the southeastern mountains. After much research, I planted a big three gallon Cinco De Mayo from a local nursery, knowing full well it black spots in some southeastern gardens and not in others. I also know the first year is not a true measure of the success of a rose in my area, but I'm happy to say the first year has been a great success. It has bloomed literally non stop, has some black spot, but everyone else does, too. The leaves are still full and healthy this late in the season. I love the color and the fragrance; she's a big flouncy party girl, always swirling and dancing in the wind.
Reading this reference on HMF,
"Monographie du Genre RosierEDIT
Book (1824) Page(s) 155.
R. sulfurea Var. minor. Pourpre jaune. This variety does not bloom unless grafted, and that rarely; it is double the former [R. sulpfurea]." R. Hemisphaerica is a synonym for sufphueera. Perhaps what you're looking for might be might be Sulpheraea flore plena? Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: R. Hemisphaerica flore plena
I have gotten packages where the boxes were cut up and used as spacers, etc. Seemed wasteful to me to use instead of crushed paper, etc. Maybe since it was a flat rate, they figured why not sacrifice the free clean boxes as packing material. But it makes it tough for the person who wants a box and can't find one. I like to reuse boxes when I can. Sometimes flat rate is a good thing, but its always best to be sure you're not overspending.
Try googling rose recipes. I just did and the general topic had many recipes listed, plus a breakdown into more specialized topics, such as rose cakes, rose wine, etc. If you search for rose gumdrop recipes, you will come up with more of a "how to make a gumdrop rose" series of listings. You might have to do a little bit more rigorous searching for gumdrop recipes. I have made lemon and orange gumdrops, so it seems like using a rose oil or extract as the flavoring would be very possible. Diane
They have sale pricing on the link below. Perhaps what you found was an older link? Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: Highcountry Roses sale
Seil, the interior pruning on Carding Mill is still evident. They removed a number of canes from the middle of the plant. What is left is a beautiful shape with a clear interior.
I have seen a video from The San Jose Municipal Rose Garden on pruning. And the woman who did the pruning shows how to prune to keep the interior clear of too many canes. She also shows how to prune the bush to make it shaped, as she called it, like a vase. My CM is free of interior 'clutter' and is shaped beautifully.
The other two English types are (or were) quite tangled.
The David Austin directly from David Austin, as you said, is much better cared for.
Thanks for your input,
andrea
I have noticed the yellowing of the interior leaves with lots of BS on my dense healthy roses. What I interpreted as lush foliage is actually affecting the plant by decreasing air circulation. I will prune a little differently next spring and see if it makes a difference. These roses are such picky b$&tches.