21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses


The polyantha White Pet (aka Little White Pet) might be a good possibility. I got mine from Vintage Gardens but don't know if it's still available. Other on-line nurseries might have it. It's widely regarded as a wonderful and healthy rose that blooms prolifically.

No Lyn, if you were building raised beds and needed soil to fill them, purchasing sandy loam and mixing it with your glacier slurry to make it hold water better may work. But, for simply improving what's in the ground already, continuing to mulch heavily with whatever organic material you have readily at hand will likely serve you better and far more cost effectively, not to mention being a WHALE of a lot easier dragging up your hill! Kim

Mike,
I own one fragrant cloud. I bought it last year. It survived this winter with no die back and minimal winter protection. Granted, we had a mild winter. I think with winter protection, it would survive any winters here.
From what I can tell, the fragrant cloud loves the heat. We had a very unseasonably hot summer. It was putting on blooms when all my other roses were on strike from 100+ degree temperatures.
When the blooms open, they look like 5 inch popcorn balls. I'm very attached to my fragrant cloud. c:

After having one in the shade (that survived fine) for 3 years, I bought my second this year. Both are on Dr. Huey and very strong and mostly disease free. She thrives in heat. Mine cuts beautifully and that fragrance! When I bring bouquets in to work, Fragrant Cloud, Chrysler Imperial and Double Delight get the most ooos and ahhhhs.

If you have decent drainage, go ahead and get them in the ground. Set the bud union at ground level. Plan to winter protect these next winter. Once these (fortuniana budded) roses have a good root system and get through their first winter, they'll be fine. You should see some really nice blooms this coming fall. I have 30+ roses on fortuniana rootstock. 10 came with me from S.E.FL when I moved to N.GA and have been in the ground since I moved up here in 2008. All the other 20+ bush's have come from K&M. Don't be afraid of fortuniana grown roses. Just be careful the 1st year.



I have planted 3 Molineux about 20 inches apart and love the fuller bush look that results. Below you can see a picture of it--if you look closely, you can see at least two bushes there (the third one is on the other side of those two bushes).
Molineux 3-in-1

I have no problems doing this--I think because Molineux is a somewhat upright vertical growing bush, so there isn't a lot of overlapping going on in the middle of the three. I probably wouldn't do this with most of my Austins which spread out more than Molineux does or are more fountain shaped than Molineux is. As it is, I love the blooms on Molineux and this way get three times more blooms! And it makes a bigger, more dramatic statement from a distance, whereas a single Molineux gets kinda lost in the scenery when viewed at a distance.
Kate

Hint:
When RRD was spread intentionally out in Iowa, it was done at the behest of the Beef Producers of the southern tier of Iowa counties who had a lot of multiflora in their grazing fields and they didn't want to kill it themselves, they were looking for a "Bioherbicide".
What I've seen in the more eastern part of this country is that RRD doesn't kill roses all that fast.
Your adjacent field sounds like some others I've seen (back when I didn't think to count living vs dead plants, because I hadn't thought the contradiction through) where the infection can build and build and build for several years and the field remains a mess for grazing, etc.

To attest to the power of painted on RU on rose stubs - I had what I think was a Dr Huey that came with the property. Very tall, only had blooms up at the tippy top, and when I chopped it down the first time to get new growth, the second growth came back identical - tall, leggy, leafy only at the top. Not beautiful, and in a bad place. Some of the old canes were well over an inch thick. The day I'd finally had enough, I chopped it again, painted undiluted RU with the paint brush and left it alone. No spraying, no wind worries, just easy peasy painting it.
I had growth within 2 weeks after the first chop. It's been 2+ months since the second chop, and there is NOTHING there... I'm a believer.

They are definitely not mantids unfortunately :( and I'm convinced they are probably just the shells.
I'm still unsure about that second pest though...the rest of the aphids are a bright green, and these guys are reddish? Are they a different type of aphid or just younger?
To treat, is it best just to spray them off or should I use insecticidal soap? Would the soap help prevent against future issues other than aphids?

Soap doesn't affect the future insects. it kills the insects that are coated with soap spray. Just apply it to the heavily infested growth tips.
I can't make out the image of the winged insect, but if it is nearly immobile and looks like a winged aphid, that's what it is.
Many beneficial predators will be present when aphids are thick, including syrphid flies and larvae, lacewing adults and larvae, ladybugs and larvae, and tiny wasps. They will almost always gain control of the aphids within a few weeks. Wiping off the thickest concentrations of aphids is a suitable control measure. Spraying water is fine, although many of the aphids will climb back up the rose. Aphids don't do significant harm unless they encrust the stems continuously for over a week.

If your plants are coming bareroot, they've probably been kept in the freezer throughout the winter, so just soak them overnight in a bucket of water so they dont' dry out (in the garage, for instance, away from the light) and then plant them.
If they are coming planted in a pot, I might leave them outside in a semi-protected spot for several days to make sure they are hardened off--and then plant them.
50-60 degrees isn't really cold for a rose. Worry when the temps drop down to 18 degrees--OK? : )
Kate

I live 3 hours from ARE - we have been having on and off temps of 50-60 and had 3 days of freezing weather last week. Your roses will come in pots and you will be delighted. I would protect them from extreme wind, etc. for a few days then plant them. Remember, Peggy survived hurricane Katrina - I would imagine 50 degrees sounds like heaven! I would mound with mulch or chopped leaves when you plant.


HEY, DUDE! I had a thought this afternoon . . .
If you liked the look of R. banksia lutea, and maybe think you could go for the same thing in WHITE -- but you want a remontant (re-blooming) rose . . .
HOW ABOUT . . . 'PUREZZA' . . . ???? ("The Pearl")
Bred in Italy by Mansuino, this is a cross of R. banksia lutea and 'Tom Thumb' (a teeny Micro-Miniature). It is a bit less rampant than the pure Banksiaes -- but definitely gives the same effect.
I'm pretty sure it will put on more bloom in Texas heat than it does here in my coastal chill -- but here's what it looks like (see below).
I have more photos, if you're interested.
Jeri





OH THANKS SO MUCH you all! Those pictures really help! Marina, it looks like you have yours on wire attached to 1 X 1s?
Jackie, I intend to let MAC go wild with some other noisettes. The wilder the better.
I received my Sombreuil today on fortuniana and I'm going to start training her right away. I think I'm going to have to go with screws and wires in brick...
I appreciate all the information and photos. Very helpful!
Susan
Hoovb, what rose is that in your photo? What support system are you using?
Molly