21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses


I have planted 3 Molineux about 20 inches apart and love the fuller bush look that results. Below you can see a picture of it--if you look closely, you can see at least two bushes there (the third one is on the other side of those two bushes).
Molineux 3-in-1

I have no problems doing this--I think because Molineux is a somewhat upright vertical growing bush, so there isn't a lot of overlapping going on in the middle of the three. I probably wouldn't do this with most of my Austins which spread out more than Molineux does or are more fountain shaped than Molineux is. As it is, I love the blooms on Molineux and this way get three times more blooms! And it makes a bigger, more dramatic statement from a distance, whereas a single Molineux gets kinda lost in the scenery when viewed at a distance.
Kate

Hint:
When RRD was spread intentionally out in Iowa, it was done at the behest of the Beef Producers of the southern tier of Iowa counties who had a lot of multiflora in their grazing fields and they didn't want to kill it themselves, they were looking for a "Bioherbicide".
What I've seen in the more eastern part of this country is that RRD doesn't kill roses all that fast.
Your adjacent field sounds like some others I've seen (back when I didn't think to count living vs dead plants, because I hadn't thought the contradiction through) where the infection can build and build and build for several years and the field remains a mess for grazing, etc.

To attest to the power of painted on RU on rose stubs - I had what I think was a Dr Huey that came with the property. Very tall, only had blooms up at the tippy top, and when I chopped it down the first time to get new growth, the second growth came back identical - tall, leggy, leafy only at the top. Not beautiful, and in a bad place. Some of the old canes were well over an inch thick. The day I'd finally had enough, I chopped it again, painted undiluted RU with the paint brush and left it alone. No spraying, no wind worries, just easy peasy painting it.
I had growth within 2 weeks after the first chop. It's been 2+ months since the second chop, and there is NOTHING there... I'm a believer.

They are definitely not mantids unfortunately :( and I'm convinced they are probably just the shells.
I'm still unsure about that second pest though...the rest of the aphids are a bright green, and these guys are reddish? Are they a different type of aphid or just younger?
To treat, is it best just to spray them off or should I use insecticidal soap? Would the soap help prevent against future issues other than aphids?

Soap doesn't affect the future insects. it kills the insects that are coated with soap spray. Just apply it to the heavily infested growth tips.
I can't make out the image of the winged insect, but if it is nearly immobile and looks like a winged aphid, that's what it is.
Many beneficial predators will be present when aphids are thick, including syrphid flies and larvae, lacewing adults and larvae, ladybugs and larvae, and tiny wasps. They will almost always gain control of the aphids within a few weeks. Wiping off the thickest concentrations of aphids is a suitable control measure. Spraying water is fine, although many of the aphids will climb back up the rose. Aphids don't do significant harm unless they encrust the stems continuously for over a week.

If your plants are coming bareroot, they've probably been kept in the freezer throughout the winter, so just soak them overnight in a bucket of water so they dont' dry out (in the garage, for instance, away from the light) and then plant them.
If they are coming planted in a pot, I might leave them outside in a semi-protected spot for several days to make sure they are hardened off--and then plant them.
50-60 degrees isn't really cold for a rose. Worry when the temps drop down to 18 degrees--OK? : )
Kate

I live 3 hours from ARE - we have been having on and off temps of 50-60 and had 3 days of freezing weather last week. Your roses will come in pots and you will be delighted. I would protect them from extreme wind, etc. for a few days then plant them. Remember, Peggy survived hurricane Katrina - I would imagine 50 degrees sounds like heaven! I would mound with mulch or chopped leaves when you plant.


HEY, DUDE! I had a thought this afternoon . . .
If you liked the look of R. banksia lutea, and maybe think you could go for the same thing in WHITE -- but you want a remontant (re-blooming) rose . . .
HOW ABOUT . . . 'PUREZZA' . . . ???? ("The Pearl")
Bred in Italy by Mansuino, this is a cross of R. banksia lutea and 'Tom Thumb' (a teeny Micro-Miniature). It is a bit less rampant than the pure Banksiaes -- but definitely gives the same effect.
I'm pretty sure it will put on more bloom in Texas heat than it does here in my coastal chill -- but here's what it looks like (see below).
I have more photos, if you're interested.
Jeri


The current stake is unnecessary and you will have at least two years before you really have to decide on a support. The bamboo tripod will work up a certain height, depending on how tall the rose gets. You may want a tall trellis or pillar of some sort.


Ann -- I'm mystified by "rose sectarian" too. My first inclination was to guess that the writers might be referring broadly to hybridized varieties of roses. Then reading the article linked below (3rd) paragraph, I wondered if perhaps the term they're reaching for might have a geographical connotation -- "sector", for instance.
At any rate, there are obvious problems with translation throughout both articles. Perhaps we're reading the results of a computerized auto-translation program. The final sentence of the linked article probably says all we need to know.
Here is a link that might be useful: Taif, City of Roses

HT = Hybrid Tea.
I caution on standards (aka. "Tree" roses) in colder zones. They are usually not winter hardy, and will need to be protected (usually by bringing into a sheltered area) in the winter months. I won't recommend them to be planted here (although several local nurseries sell them), I am on the border of zones 6b/7a.

I'd be more inclined to think that damage was the result of over-enthusiastic pruning, by people who don't know what they're doing. Even the director of the garden has a background in Camellias -- NOT roses.
It's really very sad.
Almost all of the Secret Garden Musk Climbers in commerce today trace back to the two plants at the entrance to the Children's "hidden garden" there. (And don't ask me why I know that to be true. )
There are Alister Clark roses there that you just can't get here. And there are all those Japanese-bred roses.
Jeri


We've always had good luck with Grant's Ant Stakes (but make sure pets/children cannot access them -- and cannot get to ant granules).
Once the ants are gone, buy a big package of CINNAMON STICKS, AND STICK THOSE IN THE SOIL. They will discourage ants.
Jeri




I have decided that Lavender Crystals hatched into Lavender Fairies that flew away, leaving nothing but sparkly dust behind. And sparkle dust is awfully hard to see with the grass growing so fast now!
if its any consilation, I've tried Lavender Crystal twice and twice its died....maybe your dogs just saved you some digging :)
Tammy