22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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nanito(5)

Jackie, I was suggested to look into two sports of "Bel Ange": "Angel Girl", 1973, U.S.
and "Colin's Salmon", 1970, Australia.

The second one ("Colin's Salmon") seems to be quite a good option! I wonder why it is sold in South America as 'Salmon Ange' and still appears this way in the American Rose Society. I would love to grow the three plants all together to compare.

Here I attach a picture of "Salmon Ange".
Thanks for your reply!

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nanito(5)

And here another picture of "Salmon Ange". Sorry about the poor quality of the pictures...

Thanks in advance for any contribution!

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cecily(7 VA)

Wow, you have so much space! MG is right on -- Knock Outs that are pruned to the ground in spring here (northern Virginia) are 6x6 in August. I'm counting the tree trunks in your photo thinking that there will be a lot of root competition and I still vote for nandina or nandina plus perennials. Is there another spot in your yard where you could make an island bed for roses?

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deemkelleher

Okay, nandina it is. I can put the roses on the other side of my property. Unfortunately, I put them in a perennial bed thinking they wouldn't get much bigger than three feet. Oh well. What perennials do you suggest with the firepower nandina? I'm thinking of geraniums, coreopsis, and heuchera. Maybe also putting in a climbing vine on one or both the corner trees.
Thanks so much!

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alameda/zone 8

My pick for a yellow rose is Nacogdoches [named for the oldest town in Texas]. It is a healthy bush and the bloom is a bright non-fading yellow.
Judith

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pembroke(6--Louisville KY)

I have decided on the Mellow Yellow rose. There were a lot of great suggestions, THANK YOU. I really don't care much for the grafted roses so I looked at Heirloom's selection (all own root). Heirloom has some real nice roses to choose from and their delivery is fantastic, Mellow Yellow has been delivered and in the ground with not one leaf removed thanks to their packaging & looks to be strong and healthy. Thanks again. Pembroke

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nastarana(5a)

I found a crown gall on one rose. I cut it off, poured a bleach solution over the wound and dirt nearby and then covered the wound with pruning seal, on the off chance that I might be able to save the plant, which is a rare variety.

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kittymoonbeam

Galls will eventually kill the whole plant. If the soil gets infected, the next rose to live in that spot is at risk. Plants seem to grow slowly and stop flowering and then start dying off. You dig them up and find the galls.

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amberroses(10a)

If you plant it in a pot, you will need to water it very frequently in the summer. The soil should feel moist, but not soaking wet. If the soil feels dry a few inches below the surface, you need to water. You may even have to water every day in the summer. Don't overwater though because that is bad for the plant.

If you plant in the ground, how much you need to water depends on your soil and your weather. If it rains a good amount you don't need to water. Sandy soil needs more water. Windy weather requires more watering. Hot weather requires more water. Arid climates require more water.

When you plant a new plant you will have to water more frequently for a week or two. The new plant doesn't have enough roots yet. Don't overwater.

If the leaves turn yellow and droop it may be that you haven't watered enough or it may be that you watered too much and drowned the roots. If the soil feels really wet when you stick your finger in it, then you probably watered too much. If it feels dry, you probably haven't watered enough.

Sometimes, especially when you plant new roses in the sun during a hot time of year, you are watering just the right amount but the leaves still wilt and look bad. Put something next to the plant to provide temporary shade in the afternoon. After the weather gets cooler and the plant establishes, move the shade away.

There is no exact right amount of sun and water that every rose needs. You need to analyze your conditions.

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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

6+ hours of direct sun for your rose is good...

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

While we're looking at it, the photo shows not blackspot but either cercospora or spot anthracnose (but Paul already knew that).

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andreark

I thought that the spots looked too small and maybe not dark enough.....

Thanks both of you. I may make a roser yet.

andrea

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jacqueline9CA

Wow - this is an eye opener for someone in CA! We have so many vineyards in this state, and they are spreading wildly. However, I have never heard of this problem (probably because the wine, grape, & raisin industries are so strong that they prevent it from happening).

It has happened in my garden, however. Luckily my next door neighbor who hired "gardeners" who mowed & blew & sprayed herbicide everywhere decided he could no longer afford them because of the recession - yay!

Jackie

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jacqueline9CA

Thanks Henry - you always come up with interesting articles.

Jackie

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kathy9norcal

Chiming in from zone 9, (extremely hot dry summers, moderate winters, and almost no blackspot), I am an orange lover. My favorites have been,


Pure Poetry

and


Outrageous

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himali.patel

you can search on a google for that. you find so may websites list which provides good orange rose at a very low price. you can order it online from any of them. They provides an home delivery facility

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mad_gallica(zone 5 - eastern New York)

There is a massive difference in blackspot problems from eastern to western New York. Deactivating the cloaking device is always a good idea if you want reasonably local information.

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seil zone 6b MI

Oranges and Lemons is definitely orange and yellow stripes. Chris Evert is an orange blend with reddish edges and no stripes. That should help you tell them apart.

My cousin (she lives on the next block from me so same zone) has O&L and it has been very winter hardy for her with no protection so I think it should do fine for you.

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sara_ann-z6bok

Nice bouquet Holly, thank you for sharing!

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sara_ann-z6bok

Holly, they're both lovely. The stripes are nice. Thinking about trying a couple myself next spring.

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

The main value in understanding the saturated layer is that if you do, you won't waste pot space by installing a counter-productive drainage layer.

You want shallow? I got shallow. For years, I've maintained a 16" bonsai fig in one inch of sandy loam with NO DRAIN HOLES in the pot. I know how much water the soil will hold without forming a saturated layer. I flush the soil twice a year.

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HollyKline

This has been so informative! Happily, I was already doing most of what I heard - the wicking is new, I will be checking that out! Thanks everyone!

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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

It's much cheaper to use it as a spray; also you would be adding less sodium to the soil. You can spray it every two weeks if you want to. Maybe not in the hottest weather (if you have extreme heat).

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andreark

Great!

Thanks Michael,

andrea

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seil zone 6b MI

You would be better off giving your sister a gift certificate for roses to be delivered in the spring. Planting any variety of rose in October in zone 6 is not a good idea. Those roses will not have time to settle in before winter sets in and are likely to die over the winter. But if planted next spring they should have plenty of time to thrive before their first winter and will do much better.

Find a supplier for the roses you've chosen and order them for delivery to your sister in the spring. Give your sister the card with the invoice and a picture of the rose you've selected in October. Your sister and the roses will be much happier.

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JMartel17

Thanks to everyone for the advice and comments. All very helpful. I am going to plan to send four bushes next spring, but will let my sister know now that they are in development.

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andreark

Hijacking my own thread!!

I just want to tell Kim that he was right (natch) about listening to your plants. I have one rose in the raised bed that needs a LOT more water than the rest in the same bed. It's not just the individual rose (Brandy) because I have another in another bed and it is normal.

The raised bed was put there because after cutting out a portion of my patio, we found a major root from one of my very large trees..An arborist that I've used said that putting soil on top of the root and planting roses there wouldn't hurt the tree. My thought about this Brandy needing more water is that maybe she is sitting where the tree is taking more water from that section.

Have a wonderfully rosey weekend,

andrea

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roseseek(9)

That could be why, Andrea. It could also be the imported soil isn't as uniform as the ground. If your raised Brandy is sitting on less compacted soil or sandier soil, it's going to suffer from perhaps too fast drainage or less water holding capacity than the other, in ground plant does. I have that specific issue all over here due to the danged moles. Where they don't go, the soil holds moisture and the surrounding plants are OK. Where the evidence of their activity is greatest, I might was well be growing those plants in pure sand. They complain like crazy! Trying to figure out why some things work and others don't, can be a real "fun" job, huh? Thanks. Kim

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