22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I haven't grown any of those roses, so can't comment on them, but I second Michael's point about the pillar being a bit on the short side. Remember you have to sink the legs in about 1 ft to 1.5 ft., so that leaves at most 5 ft for the rose to climb on.
Why don't you check out the David Austin web site. He double lists a number of his roses--for example, 4 ft tall if grown as a shrub, but 6-8 ft tall it grown as a climber (and wrapped around the pillar). I think The Pilgrim falls into that category and it is supposed to be fairly good on the disease-resistance. Lovely pale yellow/white blend.
And yes--plant it outside the pillar. I didn't, and my pillar deteriorated unexpectedly--rusted and falling apart although the other one like it was fine. Boy, was that a job getting it out of the climber that was planted in the center under it. Now I always plant my climbers about 6-10 inches outside the pillar.
Good luck.
Kate
Thank you very much Michael. I would rather be disappoint now than have some kind of nightmare later. You saved me alot of time, energy and frustation. These roses were recommended for my situation by a rose company. However, when I started to look into it further, it seemed these roses would not be suitable. That's when I decided to write to the forum.After pouring over catalogs and websites the only ones I came up with were Zaide and Fairy Tale Cinderella. Your suggestion of Reine des Violettes needs serious consideration as well.
With much appreciation - Margie
If you are considering using a manzate type product, you may find the following thread of interest.
Here is a link that might be useful: link to thread mentioned
Was Barfield White Climber found in Florida?
ZD produced two sports, Kathleen Harrop, which is a silvery pink and Martha. KH is quite nice, a lovely color. Martha I have not seen, I understand it is more a salmon color. I love ZD, but the color is a bit in your face. Some people can't stand it. ZD should be possible in zone 6, especially with a south or east exposure.
Meredith, I would think how much supplemental water a garden would need in winter would depend upon how warm and wet the winter is. I can understand where one with frozen soil and regular rainfall would need little. The last two here have had heat spikes into the high eighties with less than half the normal rainfall, resulting in virtually no ground water. If I don't water at least weekly through "winter", I have dried out, dead plants. Kim
I'd agree with mad Gallica - it didn't keep all its foliage for me but it wasn't bad with BS. Probably better than average, but not notably BS-free. It is hardier than many HTs for me, though mine stays rather short and doesn't bloom all that frequently. I love high contrast colors, so in a bed with other modern roses it fits right in.
Cynthia
If they have new shoots growing, they should bloom within a month. It's not too late to fertilize moderately and water if needed. But if they are not growing, it is probably too late for new shoots to start and bloom this year in upstate NY. However, controlling blackspot now will help them survive the winter. Deadheading at midsummer would help them bloom more.
This post was edited by michaelg on Tue, Sep 10, 13 at 16:14
I have both the Austins you mention, and you're right that TGG gets big. I have mine under an arch and while it's not technically a climber in my zone it puts canes up into the arch to reinforce the lower portions while the real climbers reach beyond it. Mine is very slow to rebloom, mostly spring and fall blooming if I'm lucky, but others have better results.
Darcey Bussell sounds like a better option if you're looking for a more mannerly DA, though as ratdogheads says it depends a lot on where you are. In my zone 5 part shade bed it gets to be about waist to chest high and can put out canes to 3' or so if I let it. It is a dark pinky-red and seems to rebloom well even in less than optimum sun. Another DA in that color scheme you should try is Munstead Wood, which is a darker purply-pink that I'll be trying again this spring, with many rave reviews.
Cynthia
We're in 6a (always forget to type that in before I click submit). I'm leaning toward DB for both color and size. I've always kind of liked the clashy effect of red and pink together. I just wondered about DB's disease resistance. My only Austin is 'Golden Celebration' and it's wonderfully disease resistant though I never spray it. Most of my roses do well no-spray with the exception of three 'Julia Child' which look awful without Bayer every other week.
It's easy to be confused since both over watering and under watering will produce the same symptoms. But my bet is this is over watering because of the heavy soil and the tray on the bottom of the pot. If there is any way to take off the tray do so and if you repot find a lighter potting soil.
The large brown chevron spots are probably from cercospora fungus where the leaf was infected weeks or months ago. This is not a big problem. Just pick off the leaflets.
Some of the leaves look sunburned, perhaps from too much heat and not enough water? A sharp closeup of one of the pale leaves could help us. A balcony in Texas could get way hotter than the environment where you are used to gardening.
As seil said, it can be hard to tell whether a plant is suffering from too much or too little water. Water larger pots 2 gallons at a time and let the surface dry slightly before watering again, maybe every two days. They might want as much as 8 gallons a week in very hot weather.
More gorgeous pics--how can you ignore this lovely rose, Kate? Your pics are beautiful, and now I've got to get this rose. Diane
If you want to order it from Heirloom Roses, call them and ask. It's listed as "out of stock" on their website, but when I ordered mine, I called them to ask and they had 17 that were actually available, with more scheduled to be available in the fall.
I'm excited for my buds to start blooming!
Kate, thanks for the info and lovely pics!!!
Zachary