22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
If they have new shoots growing, they should bloom within a month. It's not too late to fertilize moderately and water if needed. But if they are not growing, it is probably too late for new shoots to start and bloom this year in upstate NY. However, controlling blackspot now will help them survive the winter. Deadheading at midsummer would help them bloom more.
This post was edited by michaelg on Tue, Sep 10, 13 at 16:14
I have both the Austins you mention, and you're right that TGG gets big. I have mine under an arch and while it's not technically a climber in my zone it puts canes up into the arch to reinforce the lower portions while the real climbers reach beyond it. Mine is very slow to rebloom, mostly spring and fall blooming if I'm lucky, but others have better results.
Darcey Bussell sounds like a better option if you're looking for a more mannerly DA, though as ratdogheads says it depends a lot on where you are. In my zone 5 part shade bed it gets to be about waist to chest high and can put out canes to 3' or so if I let it. It is a dark pinky-red and seems to rebloom well even in less than optimum sun. Another DA in that color scheme you should try is Munstead Wood, which is a darker purply-pink that I'll be trying again this spring, with many rave reviews.
Cynthia
We're in 6a (always forget to type that in before I click submit). I'm leaning toward DB for both color and size. I've always kind of liked the clashy effect of red and pink together. I just wondered about DB's disease resistance. My only Austin is 'Golden Celebration' and it's wonderfully disease resistant though I never spray it. Most of my roses do well no-spray with the exception of three 'Julia Child' which look awful without Bayer every other week.
It's easy to be confused since both over watering and under watering will produce the same symptoms. But my bet is this is over watering because of the heavy soil and the tray on the bottom of the pot. If there is any way to take off the tray do so and if you repot find a lighter potting soil.
The large brown chevron spots are probably from cercospora fungus where the leaf was infected weeks or months ago. This is not a big problem. Just pick off the leaflets.
Some of the leaves look sunburned, perhaps from too much heat and not enough water? A sharp closeup of one of the pale leaves could help us. A balcony in Texas could get way hotter than the environment where you are used to gardening.
As seil said, it can be hard to tell whether a plant is suffering from too much or too little water. Water larger pots 2 gallons at a time and let the surface dry slightly before watering again, maybe every two days. They might want as much as 8 gallons a week in very hot weather.
I have Caramella, it does get black spot and does throw out long canes. I wound up 'pegging' it into a round shape and it looked great. Of course that only lasts 2 years, this year I had to prune it a lot and repeg. This way, it gets covered in blooms. One other not so great thing about it, it is not self cleaning, and the spent blooms are ugly and ruin the look of the other fresh flowers around it. However, the blooms, from bud to open, are beautiful.
I ordered BG for spring but my other FT roses have grown like gangbusters on multiflora. Not much bloom but I am hoping after spring pruning it will bloom.
So healthy!!! And I am no spray. Like Diane, mine got the late season crud but lost maybe 2% of leaves and those were low and interior which I should've removed earlier in the season anyway to prevent BS.
I highly recommend them!
Susan
From how own root plants of it performed here we propagated for Huntington sales, properly budded ones should do significantly better than own root in harsher conditions. The main issues with that supplier were chronic virus (often quite severe) and his shipping bare roots year round, including the high heat of summer, because he found it "worked". OK. Kim
For what it's worth, that bloom looks a lot like my Yankee Doodle in cooler temperatures, including that slightly yellow cast on the reverse of the petals. In hotter temperatures, it tends to be a more pale apricot (most of our summers). Of course, I misidentify roses in my own yard, much less someone else's, but if that's a rose that's in your records this would be a very plausible match.
Cynthia
Be sure the new soil has about the same texture as the old root ball. Boundaries between denser and lighter soil create problems with the movement of water. Old potting soil has become finer and tighter as the organic matter is digested by bacteria. If you can't get a good match, remove as much of the old soil as you can and start the plant over in a uniform mix. It will need to be shaded for a while if you have to break up the root ball.
I think it's kind of a tough one to get going as an own-root. I have tried it from Vintage Gardens on numerous occasions, and it always died on me before it got very big. The one I got from RVR has done pretty well and bloomed once. Ya gotta look quick tho, cuz the blooms blow pretty fast.
RRD/RRV has been in and around the DFW area for over a decade.
Generally RRD hits one cane first. It looks as if your rose got visited by a single vagrant mite. Unless there's a source of the vector mites not all that far away....but it's not on other roses, so that argues for the lack of a local vector source.
Also the heat of a Great Plains summer seems to have suppressed the vector mites up in Iowa in published papers; I wouldn't expect Dallas to have cooler temps until later this month (and the mite population surges that go with the non=100F temps). But, again, a single mite can come from anywhere upwind.
Those photos are some of the worst multiple axillary breaks I've ever seen. And the buds are not forming in an orderly fashion.
One other pestilence to check out: chili thrips.
I think you may have saved it by cutting the support cane as low on the plant as possible. Watch where you cut it for odd replacement growth (which would show up in a couple of weeks in the weather you're having now.)
Rose cones?! Sound like an elaborate form of grower torture. I'm glad to know these roses grow well despite frost in zones close to mine. I don't prune until the roses break dormancy, not in the least reason because it *always* catches me by surprise and I scramble to get my pruning done. I meander around saying "crap, how did that happen so fast?!" I try to pick roses that survive without perfect care and these three are my experiments in pushing that envelope. Mr. Shovel takes care of poor performers for me, too!
Thanks for the advice on Pink Traviata. I love Traviata and was seriously considering the pink variety. I'll wait and see if someone around here has grown her.
Another place you could look for information is the New York Botanical Garden where they switched out all the roses in 2007 to more disease resistant and are growing without chemicals. They offer a list of which roses they are growing too.
I have 'Julia Child' and so far I've found it to be one of the easiest and most dependable to grow without chemicals. Medium size yellow flowers, lots of rebloom.
Here is a link that might be useful: Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden
I'd agree with mad Gallica - it didn't keep all its foliage for me but it wasn't bad with BS. Probably better than average, but not notably BS-free. It is hardier than many HTs for me, though mine stays rather short and doesn't bloom all that frequently. I love high contrast colors, so in a bed with other modern roses it fits right in.
Cynthia
Odd. I love it because it doesn't get a lot of blackspot here (like Michael said) but unfortunately it definitely is not a heavy bloomer.