22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
From how own root plants of it performed here we propagated for Huntington sales, properly budded ones should do significantly better than own root in harsher conditions. The main issues with that supplier were chronic virus (often quite severe) and his shipping bare roots year round, including the high heat of summer, because he found it "worked". OK. Kim
For what it's worth, that bloom looks a lot like my Yankee Doodle in cooler temperatures, including that slightly yellow cast on the reverse of the petals. In hotter temperatures, it tends to be a more pale apricot (most of our summers). Of course, I misidentify roses in my own yard, much less someone else's, but if that's a rose that's in your records this would be a very plausible match.
Cynthia
Be sure the new soil has about the same texture as the old root ball. Boundaries between denser and lighter soil create problems with the movement of water. Old potting soil has become finer and tighter as the organic matter is digested by bacteria. If you can't get a good match, remove as much of the old soil as you can and start the plant over in a uniform mix. It will need to be shaded for a while if you have to break up the root ball.
I think it's kind of a tough one to get going as an own-root. I have tried it from Vintage Gardens on numerous occasions, and it always died on me before it got very big. The one I got from RVR has done pretty well and bloomed once. Ya gotta look quick tho, cuz the blooms blow pretty fast.
RRD/RRV has been in and around the DFW area for over a decade.
Generally RRD hits one cane first. It looks as if your rose got visited by a single vagrant mite. Unless there's a source of the vector mites not all that far away....but it's not on other roses, so that argues for the lack of a local vector source.
Also the heat of a Great Plains summer seems to have suppressed the vector mites up in Iowa in published papers; I wouldn't expect Dallas to have cooler temps until later this month (and the mite population surges that go with the non=100F temps). But, again, a single mite can come from anywhere upwind.
Those photos are some of the worst multiple axillary breaks I've ever seen. And the buds are not forming in an orderly fashion.
One other pestilence to check out: chili thrips.
I think you may have saved it by cutting the support cane as low on the plant as possible. Watch where you cut it for odd replacement growth (which would show up in a couple of weeks in the weather you're having now.)
Rose cones?! Sound like an elaborate form of grower torture. I'm glad to know these roses grow well despite frost in zones close to mine. I don't prune until the roses break dormancy, not in the least reason because it *always* catches me by surprise and I scramble to get my pruning done. I meander around saying "crap, how did that happen so fast?!" I try to pick roses that survive without perfect care and these three are my experiments in pushing that envelope. Mr. Shovel takes care of poor performers for me, too!
Thanks for the advice on Pink Traviata. I love Traviata and was seriously considering the pink variety. I'll wait and see if someone around here has grown her.
Another place you could look for information is the New York Botanical Garden where they switched out all the roses in 2007 to more disease resistant and are growing without chemicals. They offer a list of which roses they are growing too.
I have 'Julia Child' and so far I've found it to be one of the easiest and most dependable to grow without chemicals. Medium size yellow flowers, lots of rebloom.
Here is a link that might be useful: Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden
It's not clear to me how they got back to exporting in one year, since grafted roses are grown for two years before harvest. Does anyone know whether there has been any change in how they are producing roses, other than not using rootstock imported from Europe?
But I'm relieved that we haven't lost another quality producer of roses.
I'm pretty sure my PJPII had RRD this spring. The new growth turned a weird combination of red and green and never outgrew it, plus the leaves and flowers were distorted and the canes stayed super flexible with soft thorns. Last year he grew so well and produced amazing numbers of fragrant flowers. I will try him again, but not for a few years.
Your PJPII looks normal to me, too. My PJPII had very red new growth that startled me at first, but greened up nicely, until this spring, that is.
I have kept new cuttings, including The New Dawn, alive over winter by siting them in their pots along the uninsulated, north foundation wall of my house and covering them with 2 L pop bottles, from which I have cut the bottom, and oak leaves. The only tricky part is removing the bottle caps when it's warm in the spring so that fungii aren't too happy.
Should work. Just aim for at least a 24" pot (the bigger the better) and an outer pot to provide some insulation from the heat is a great idea. If you can possibly site your pot such that it's in the shade most of the time (with the rest of the rose in the sun) then that will help. Also if you can run drip irrigation to the pot so that it is assured of regular water, that doesn't hurt either. Potted roses need regular fertilizer, so plan on that as well.
Your "2B" is obviously not your USDA growing zone if you are in Benicia--you might want to change that...
I guess, if I was being conscientious, I would step on the potassium more than nitrogen or phosphorous....we were always taught potassium was good for hardening woody growth for winter. Probably be more reticent with the nitrogen though.....although, it frequently depends what's left in the shed at this time of year, also.
I have Caramella, it does get black spot and does throw out long canes. I wound up 'pegging' it into a round shape and it looked great. Of course that only lasts 2 years, this year I had to prune it a lot and repeg. This way, it gets covered in blooms. One other not so great thing about it, it is not self cleaning, and the spent blooms are ugly and ruin the look of the other fresh flowers around it. However, the blooms, from bud to open, are beautiful.
I ordered BG for spring but my other FT roses have grown like gangbusters on multiflora. Not much bloom but I am hoping after spring pruning it will bloom.
So healthy!!! And I am no spray. Like Diane, mine got the late season crud but lost maybe 2% of leaves and those were low and interior which I should've removed earlier in the season anyway to prevent BS.
I highly recommend them!
Susan