22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
The reason it is not blooming very much might be because you are cutting it back and "not allowing those long tendrils" too often. If it really wants to be a climber, it will put its energy into getting as tall as IT thinks it should be (no matter what you think), instead of putting its energy into blooming.
So, I would tie the long canes as horizontally as you can, and stop cutting it back (just deadhead it after bloom), and see what happens.
Jackie
Celeste, when I saw how small your rose growing area is I became a bit concerned. You really won't be able to grow many roses there, especially since the bed is so narrow. Given the fact that you have so much space, why not make the rose growing area much larger?Of course you can grow lots of other things there too, which will make it look much prettier and more interesting than just roses alone. Grass takes a lot of water, doesn't give shade and doesn't encourage birds and beneficial insects and other creatures. If you try some of the old roses, they get very big and beautiful and would need a lot of space. Lavender Lassie can get huge. I'm also concerned that your west-facing wall with cook everything. That's how I lost a beautiful climber, Reve d'Or, by planting it where it got afternoon sun. Roses don't have to be against the wall, and in fact will get much better air circulation and will suffer less if they're out in the open. Do you have a patio that you could plant a rose garden around? That would cool down the house area, especially if you added some trees like crape myrtle and perhaps had an arbor for growing climbers. I'm afraid the trellis is going to be much too small and flimsy for the climbers you have planned there, assuming they survive. You say you have a dry climate, which is what I have, and mine also gets very hot. Does the front of your house have a cooler exposure? That might be a good place to have roses also. Mine get very stressed by the heat, especially if there isn't sufficient rain.
I hate to sound so negative, but I've had to toss or give away any number of roses because they couldn't stand my heat. Lavender Lassie is very beautiful but from what I've heard the rebloom isn't particularly frequent, so don't be distressed if it doesn't rebloom like some other roses.
We're always here for you with advice should you need more information.
Ingrid
Have an idea in your head of what the final goal of the pruning is going to be. Old and dead wood should be removed at the base. It is possible that is all that should be done. If the rose is getting too big for the space, then do some cutting back. Some rugosas have attractive, fountain shapes, and can lose that is they are butchered, which is why having a goal is important.
Sabine, I live in a hot, dry area in San Diego County and have noticed that, with the little rain we've had, many of my roses are suffering, in spite of watering every second day. The other day I dug down into the dirt around some of the roses and discovered that, although the top was moist, one or two inches down there was no moisture at all. What I'm doing now is putting the hose to each plant with just a trickle of water coming out and leaving it there until I can see that there's moisture further down when I check with a trowel. Have a look at the soil around your roses; you might be having the same problem. Other than that I can't imagine what could be causing the dieoff. If it is a lack of water I would also put mulch around the roses, if you haven't done so already, to keep the sun from sucking up all the moisture.
Ingrid
Thanks Ingrid,
This rose is so old and established I never really had an issue with water, I just recently started to let the area soak. The part that concerns me is that it is the only rose in my garden that is behaving this way. I think I am going to take soil and tissue samples in to get tested
I keep my mulch 4-6" away from the rose stems (in z4 my bud union is buried) & I try to put on 2-3" at a time. You say that your mulch is "fine", most info I've seen recommends something courser like wood chips to allow rain/water to run thru. I use wood chips that I can get "free for the hauling" at a site run by my city gov't where they haul their tree trimmings. I am a big advocate of using local mulch like this rather than buying it, think "mulch locally" just like you frequently hear "eat locally". Below is a link to some good articles to read on mulching.
Here is a link that might be useful: Hort. Myths
Most of my buds hadn't opened, but I did spray it inside a couple -- didn't notice any negatives.
There is some information on bioworks website related to small volume applications which calls for about 1 tbsp/gallon. Plus they are very responsive to consumer calls/questions.
The thrips here have been virulent for about the last 4 years with no end in sight. I'm convinced the bastards have decided to make Maumelle, Arkansas their permanent HQ.
I did the Orthene treatments. And yes Orthene will kill them, but my residual results have been far superior with BontaniGard. With Orthene, I only felt like it was effective for 24 hours. Plus the Orthene just smells so awful. Botanigard is odorless. If you have roses that are blooming, the last thing you should want is the sour death stench of Orthene (or the additive mercaptan which supposedly makes it smell so bad). I'm not saying this product is for everyone, but for me it's a dream come true. The image of lifeless thrips in a bloom is beautiful!
The fungicide timing is tricky, but with a little scheduling it's not bad. Bioworks has a list on their website of compatible fungicides and the time intervals for application. I'm thinking of going with Cleary's 3336 and alternate with Mancozeb or Banner Max (is it best to mix in a contact fungicide every couple of weeks or alternate between 2 systemics?)
Please don't take this personally or feel insulted, but I did indeed get a pop-up while trying to access that link. .I'm not trying to start a war over this, but I'm also not saying anything that isn't the case. I should say that it is privacy settings, not security settings - my error.
This is the pop-up:
:
"This website uses the digital subscription service Press+ to manage access to its content. In order to bypass the message you are reading and access our site, we need you to enable your third-party cookies or switch to a different browser. This will enable Press+ to store small bits of information in your browser that enable the site to function properly.
(followed by technical geeky stuff )"
Please let me also say that I do appreciate the links to articles in your other posts..
This post was edited by nickl on Sat, Jun 15, 13 at 9:25
Pictures would really help a great deal. Both of the blooms and of the foilage of the apparent non-Iceberg variety.
Also, climbing Iceberg is not really a great choice for our climate and zone. It isn't hardy enough to be a true climber each year and since it is also somewhat BS prone, this tends to weaken the plant going into the following year. The shrub version of Iceberg does just fine here however and has enough vigour to regrow each year despite the BS.
Hi Diane,
I just went outside to take some photos and sure enough..the closed rose had opened up a bit since a few hours ago and is looking more like her sister. I've uploaded the photos here.
They...look the same....she says sheepishly:(
Well, that's a good thing! Problem solved!
Thank you for your kind response;)
Mira
This one is also advertised on Amazon:
Black Dragon Rose Seeds Bush Flower Seeds
its very obviously a scam. but alot of people actually buy them!
Looking good DNTQuilter! :)
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sunflowersrus222,
We have a large calendar hanging in which I write down the days it rains, when I fertilize or whatever...
Keeps me on track... lol
We have had so much rain that I only have had to
handwater my newly planted baby Heirloom Roses once since May 15th...
Without seeing it, my best guess would be powdery mildew. If you are unfamiliar with it, and blackspot is your usual fungal disease, you likely won't see a lot of it -- but immature plants can mildew when stressed.
No spray will eradicate it. Sprays are preventive, only.
If you have sprayed, it may stop spreading. You can hide it some with an oil spray, but be very cautious. At 75 deg. you're getting up to where oil on leaves cooks them, and a temporary bout of mildew may be preferable to that.
Jeri
If you have highly salty, alkaline water, it can leave calcium spotting on the foliage, as can many sprays. You'd do better posting clear photos of the issue for diagnosis. Kim