22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
It has to do with what they use for rootstock -- the different rules for Pickering and Palatine. Pickering imported theirs from Europe and Palatine grew their own. There were some (retaliatory) rule changes in the import/export regulations (that had zero to do with roses or rose politics or Pickering) and Pickering came out the loser, or so I've heard.
Beats me. I have this problem with almost every rose I grow. Off hand, I'd say there are three roses in my garden that have stayed within the size predicted by the growers: The Prince, Tamora, and Ebb Tide. That's it! Right now, fool that I am, I believed that Princess Alexandra of Kent would be compact--ha. I am faced with moving her if she gets much bigger, and I have no place to put her. It's looking like Young Lycidas will be the same. And don't get me started on the giant Ascot. Please don't believe HMF on this one. They are soooo far off on the size estimate given in their description of this rose. Diane
"They" (HMF) only reports what site users provide them. If the information is not what you experience, do everyone a favor and post it in the comments section on the rose page, NOT on a photo comment. Photo comments get lost with the photos. Go to the rose's page and comment there where it remains with the page so anyone checking comments will see it.
Help Me Find doesn't grow any roses, nor do they test them or independently check on the validity of any information the ARS or any other organizations provide. They are simply a reporting tool. How accurate, complete, "good" they can be depends upon how freely WE share what We experience with the roses in question.
The sizes given on the site are primarily what is provided in the registration information provided by the ARS, which is provided them by the raiser/introducer of the roses. If that doesn't jive with what it does for you, post a comment containing where you are, any special conditions you deal with and how the thing performed for you. Imagine how many prickly Kudzu plants your garden would be missing if those who had already discovered the issues thought enough to share them before you checked there. Kim
nanodoll, I was able to obtain some of the roses of Mathias Tantau Sr., and Jr. especially, when Eurodesert closed. Some of those are 'Goldregen' ('Golden Rain'). 'Landora' ('Sunblest'), 'Pussta' ('New Daily Mail'). I have 'Cinnabar' and 'Juliska' from Vintage, and the famous HTs, "Tropicana', 'Fragrant Cloud', 'Anneliese Rotherberger' ('Oregold'), and 'Monica' in cheapo body bags, so if they don't survive the winter I am not out too much.
'Fragrant Cloud' is one of my all time favorite roses. Love, love the color, in all stages and the fragrance is to die for.
'Pussta' is one of the best floribundas I have ever grown or seen, and I can't understand why it is not better known and more often sold.
They are a bit challenging in my climate, cold and wet, but with a fert regimen and winter protection, they have thrived so far.
I get lots of compliments on both 'Golden Rain' and 'Sunblest', even though both are often dismissed as inferior yellow roses. Possibly that is because yellow is challenging in our climate, so not often seen in roses.
Hans Evans took over the company in 1985. I am not so familiar with his work. I do have 'Diadem', a pink floribunda from 87. So far I am a bit underwhelmed, but this only the first year I have had it.
Thank you for this information. I love Evers' roses and want more of the newer ones. The three I do have--Ascot (Palatine has this one), Bernstein-Rose, and Augusta Luise, I love--I even have multiples. The ones I want now are available only in Europe so far. Here's a pic of Ascot. Disregard spotted old gardener's hand in the corner-ha. Diane
How fun to meet everyone! Must have missed this, wasn't around too much in August!
Here is me this morning after dropping my little ones off for their first day of school!
Here are said little ones...my favorite garden helpers on their first day of school!
They grow up too fast!!
Andrea
I've been very happy with the foliage on my Mutabilis. It does have a different growth pattern from most roses. It's very airy but I think that also suits the delicateness of the blooms. This was mine in August when EVERYTHING else is pretty much covered in black spot. And this is far from a mature plant as it's only about a one year old rooted cutting.
Maybe it depends on where Mutabilis is grown and in what orientation. Mine is in a dry and hot climate but backed against a wall and the open side receives at most sun until midday and quite a bit less in the fall and winter. It's quite full and in fact you can't see the wall. I believe Mutabilis benefits from occasional pruning and even a severe haircut every four to five years won't hurt it. Mine doesn't put out much new growth unless it's cut back at least a little bit every now and then, up to perhaps a quarter of its size. When it's left untended for too long it develops long, thin canes with fewer leaves and flowers.
Ingrid
Rose slugs (sawfly larvae), which are green worms on the underside of the leaves. The translucent white spots are from the young worms grazing off the lower cuticle. They may have mostly grown up and pupated by now. If you catch them early in the season, you can just wipe them off the bottom of damaged leaves. You can also spray with an insecticide containing spinosad, reaching the underside of the leaves.
I am concerned about the strong branching shoot in the picture, which might indicate rose rosette virus disease. Please give us a couple of sharp images of that.
You're welcome. From what I see about the label on line:
VEGETABLES, HERBS, SPICES, ROSES, HOUSEPLANTS, FLOWERS, TREES,
AND SHRUBS.
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS
ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY is an effective fungicide for the prevention and control of various Fungal Diseases including Powdery Mildew, Black Spot, Downy Mildew, Anthracnose, Rust,
Leaf Spot, Botrytis, Needle Rust, Scab and Flower, Twig and Tip Blight, and Alternaria. As a preventative,
apply ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY on a 7 to 14 day schedule until the potential
for Disease development is no longer present. To control Disease already present, apply ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY on a 7 day schedule until Disease pressure is eliminated. Then
continue spraying on a 14 day schedule to prevent the Disease from reoccurring. To prevent Rust Leaf Spot
Diseases, Anthracnose and Scab, begin applications at the first sign of Spring budding. To prevent Powdery
Mildew, apply in mid-Summer or when Disease is first detected. Continue applications until Disease pressure no longer exists.
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS
Mix ferti-lomeî
ROSE, FLOWER & VEGETABLE SPRAY at the rate of 2 tablespoons (1 fluid ounce) per
gallon of water. Thoroughly mix solution and spray all Plant surfaces (including undersides of leaves) until
completely wet. Frequently mix solution as you spray.
Hopefully, you didn't exceed the 2 TBS per gallon. Even at that rate, if your weather is expected to be as hot as you've indicated, you might experience some burn. But, what is worse? Scorched leaves of black spotted, falling foliage? You're right, it's always something! Your higher heat is going to help prevent some of the disease spread because it can get too hot for the spores to germinate. Until it begins remaining cooler, I wouldn't spray be once every two weeks for fear of burn. Good luck! Kim
Since oil sprays are not very effective against blackspot, I would avoid spraying in the evening because the water in the spray, staying wet overnight, might cause germination to occur. (It is certain that blackspot needs long wetting to germinate, but I am just speculating about the effect of oil spray.)
In the morning, plants are cool and well hydrated, so sprays are less likely to burn. Sprays will dry quickly, which is good for a number of reasons. Be sure the soil is well moistened before applying sprays, especially oil, sulfur, chlorothalonil, or bicarbonate.
I've been waiting for weeks for them to open up ordering. I want PHILATELIE really badly! I ordered it last season, but they ran out and couldn't send me one. So I made sure I get mine and get it in November instead of March or whenever I opted for last time. Also ordered replacements for my own-root BUXOM BEAUTY/PAROLE that never did anything and finally died, and ANN HENDERSON who also died on me. And got ELFI VON DASSANOWSKY because I love that light pink and yellow combo. Plus they have to replace two of my roses from last season. I got a mis-marked MONTE CARLO COUNTRY CLUB and HARMONIE never broke dormancy.
Beth - I ordered Buxom Beauty from Palatine this year, they've done really well, lovely fragrance. From what I've seen here, looks like I better reserve my roses soon. They have a great selection. The roses are really good quality and they have been very helpful when I've called with questions.
I bought two own root roses in mache pots at a rose show. I set them down off the patio in some dirt between some abelias. I never got around to planting them and threw them away. It didn't matter since they planted themselves. They are both over six feet tall and poke out from the seven foot abelias
On the other hand, some of us, including zone 5 growers, feed until mid-autumn with good results. Roses need all the nutrients, including N, to stock up on carbs for the winter. However, if you have been fertilizing with something like Rose Tone, or if the soil has high organic content, it will continue to release soluble N into the fall. So in many circumstances, it doesn't matter either way. I haven't noticed any difference in serious winter damage between fertilizing and not fertilizing. (I have experienced zone 6 and zone 5 winters in the past.) Generally, when you find gardeners advocating opposite practices, that means you can get satisfactory results either way.
I applied 10-10-10 recently and will probably do so again in early October. Roses here usually grow and bloom until mid-November. In zone 5 the rose-stopping freeze is around two weeks earlier, I guess.
Margaret was easily six by eight feet in Newhall (budded from Edmund's many years ago) and had no foliage issues there at all. The PLANT was gorgeous. The flowers fried as quickly as they opened. I loved the bush, the foliage and the gorgeous sepals, I just very seldom saw a decent open flower because they were so heat intolerant. Kim
That's very interesting, Sidos. I wonder what others who have grown Eden would say--any similar kinds of situations or experiences?
Haven't decided yet what to do. Because Eden is so special, I'd like to re-plant her, but then I remember her less than wonderful traits (slow re-bloom and not very profuse, for instance), and then I start thinking of some lovely Austin climbers I wouldn't mind trying out . . .
Just don't know yet. For now, I'm just grateful for all the helpful input I'm getting here, as we try to figure out what happened.
Kate
Now that I think about it, my Eden can get pretty dry and stay happy. I've never had mine planted in a heavy/wet spot, but I can vouch that she may need less water than other roses.
If you have room, I hope you replace her (or yours may bounce back) :) Yours is so gorgeous!
I've tried various pruning techniques to try to get better bloom on my Eden. Mine had too many older canes, apparently. I pruned some so that she made new laterals, and those had good rebloom this summer! She may be one that likes what I call 'rejuvenation pruning'. My New Dawns like that, too.