21,401 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Wow alot of roses!! I have 3 of those. JH PIERNEEF is a good one. Mine stays about 4-4.5ftx3ft, blooms nicely and fairly often. S.E.A. OF LOVE is still in a pot and gets about 3ft tall and blooms decently. Very pretty blooms. THE NIGHTWATCH is wonderful. Mine's about 10yrs old and it tends to sprawl a bit, reaching around 5.5ftx4ft. The blooms are gorgeous and almost always in interesting clusters of random shades & tones of burgundy, crimson and white. It's my favorite of those 3.
I look forward to seeing pics of your new babies in the coming season.

Thanks for the feedback, Beth! I figured you would have a couple of these since you like the oddballs too :) I was really excited when I saw the pictures of Nightwatch, I'm glad to hear its a good rose too...I'll have to put in someplace where it will be seen!
I'll definitley post pictures this season!
Tammy

The volunteers have planted an outer bed of OGRs from ARE and ROYAT. The interior beds are older moderns, many appearing to be those from the 1966 installation. I went to Torrance to plant a friend's pot ghetto, but HAD to take her five new rooted cuttings from my wraps to make sure there would still be SOMETHING in pots on her patio! Kim

You're welcome! I wouldn't try to base that kind of identification on scent. Scents (and noses) are too variable and fleeting. Plus, what scent name is given in the registration is up to the nose of the person filling out the form. What good is it if their nose isn't any "better" than yours, or if what they perceive as one scent, isn't what others perceive? Give me quantifiable characteristics any day! Kim

Exactly! I wouldn't have identified my red HT as Olympiad if it wasn't for someone pointing it out to me that it has no scent to them.It did resemble Olympiad in all its attributes (heat-resistance, bloom form, leaves) but the only thing that made me suspend my judgement was that it was listed as having a mild tea scent which my rose didn't posses. Visual characteristics are easier to look out for.

Kate,
I guess some one passed a county rule around here, but I personally can spray RU, if my gardener does (and does not have a current pesticide use permit/license/class) it is a $250 fine for the first offence. In the city gas powered leaf blowers are also off limits.
I read a paper for a foo foo small town north of here, seems homeowners using hedge clippers on the weekend is also a big no-no and will have your neighbors calling the police on you. (makes their blotter reports several times each weekend)

It's the beginning of the most exciting time of the rose year and, best of all, I have many baby roses that will bloom for the first time this spring (I hope!). I'm most excited about Young Lycidas, Lady Alice Stanley, Earth Song and Pink Rosette.
Ingrid


I second Roses Unlimited in Laurens SC.
I live about an hour a way so even if you are a couple of hours away, it is worth it.
When I was creating a parterre rose garden two years ago,I attended RU's spring open house and purchased all of my roses there.
They grow own root.
Their open house should be some time in April.
As for a climber, one of my favorites is Abraham Darby. For me, it is an apricot rose and has very few thorns.
Hope this helps.


What about a temporary panel to cover the wall until the rose builds up. Or maybe a structure that provides light shade until the bush is larger. Once it's nice and big, the structure could be taken down. Might look out of place for a while, but the years of beautiful rose to follow would be worth it.


Quite often, bare roots dry out before they have a chance to develop the feeder roots so they can absorb sufficient water. Grab a bag of planting mix and dump it over the rose so you bury the green canes almost their entire length. Keep that mound of soil over the plant damp when you water until new growth begins showing, when you can gradually uncover the plant. You can make cylinders of card board or many layers of news paper stapled into the size cylinder necessary to permit filling it with soil so only the top two or so inches of the canes are exposed. Water into the cylinder so the contained soil remains damp.
It isn't necessary every time to mound newly planted bare roots like this, but where it's likely to be windy, arid, warm, brilliantly sunny where the plant is going to have to battle being pushed into growth too early before it can generate roots, it helps greatly. It's the same theory as planting the callused, wrapped cuttings deeply in pots or cups to prevent them from drying out or being pushed into too early growth before they can grow roots. Bare root body bags used to have those instructions on them. It's been so long since I've even looked at rose a body bag, I don't know if they're still there or not. The main causes of bare root failure are receiving or buying dried out, nearly dead plants and exposing them to desiccating conditions without proper protection against drying out before they can grow roots.
Trevor Griffiths, the nurseryman from New Zealand, wrote in one of his books of people who would bring back "dead" bare roots. He would bury them under soil to rehydrate them then pot them to take to speaking engagements to show how "dead" they were. I frequently bought "dead" returned bare roots for fifty cents from work years ago because I knew I could bury them a few weeks, then plant and nearly every one of them lived to become decent plants. It honestly IS hard to kill a rose...as long as you know what you're doing. Kim


So glad you figured it out. A clue for future reference is that the new growth (red) on the older cane looks just like the new growth (red) on the new cane. It does NOT look at all like Dr. Huey, the most used rootstock, which (at least here) produces new leaves that are green with red edges.
Jackie


I posted in your other thread, but I have a slightly different take on the holes in red clay. Done properly, Dr. Huey may actually prefer red clay than other soils. ;-) In my experience, deep is better than wide - may have to do with what's already been mentioned about roses needing to drain. I actually put a few small pebbles at the bottoms of my holes just to ensure that there's some drainage below the roots - but my holes are deep - 2 feet minimum, sometimes more. I also don't mix as much other stuff in with the clay as others do - about 30% peat moss with a cup of Mills Mix and that's it. If the rose roots can drain well, they'll like the red clay just fine and have no trouble growing through it, around it, and all over. The last thing I do is mulch - mulch, mulch, mulch. Shredded pine bark is best. It holds its shape pretty well. I mound it up in the center (no issue with shredded pine bark touching the canes) and then create large, 3-foot donut drip rings. When it breaks down, it forms organics that the roses love. I think they even love the smell. ;-)
Others are right, though, if you completely replace the soil in the red clay hole, you're doing little more than creating an in-ground clay pot.

thanks mzstitch, will use your advice, what can I do for the 4 estaoblished rose bushes? One Yellow 3 Red?? What should I feed them during Spring /Summer??? By the way, my brother in law lives in York!! Also have friends in Kings Mountain and Rock Hill, email me and I will tell you their names, you may know them.
Thanks
Ed

I agree that there should be nothing wrong with red clay and roses. Dr. Huey simply loves it. As others have said, though, hole preparation is important. Even though I'm in Atlanta, I bury every bud union at least a couple of inches below the surface.
Then I mulch, mulch, mulch - shredded pine bark works best for me. It breaks down in about a third to a half-season, but it retains shape well and doesn't wash away easily. I mound up the center quite a bit (there's no issue with shredded pine mulch against the canes) and then form a large drip ring around the center - like a 3-foot donut.
BTW, for newly planted bare roots - you should cover the canes completely with a center mound of mulch. Let the canes and shoots find their way out. That protects the bush until the roots gain some footing.
No one's said it yet, but all the talk about "feeding" may be a bit much. Use organics and lay off the hard fertilizer until you know you have an established bush - and even then use it sparingly. I can't say enough about Magic Mills Mix from Beaty fertilizer (you can get it from Rosemania, too). The stuff is great. I use a cup mixed with about 30% peat moss in the red clay to replace the soil in the hole. That's after removing all the rocks, by the way. Ensuring that the hole is deep rather than wide seems to work best in my clay.




It looks very healthy. You'll need to post a pic when the blooms open.