22,151 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I'm not so sure that the colour is all that is different about the sports of Iceberg. I have the original, Brilliant Pink and Burgundy versions as do many neighbours and the pink and burgundy versions are just not as prolific as the white version. I've also heard from others that the blackspot susceptibility is different amongst the sports as well; my own experience is that the original white is more prone to spotting than the two sports.
Maybe it's a climate thing and maybe I ought to put my 2 cents in on the roses you hate to love post...my Burgundy Iceberg is a fine rose. The color is deep and rich and never has been otherwise, save that one pink cane, which was kinda cute. I wouldn't call her prolific, but she's never without flowers. Yes she blackpots but pretty much everything in New England blackspots. I also have a couple young white iceberg climbers. BS resistance seems about the same, but hard to judge because I do spray.
Was it grafted? It probably reverted back to its root stock (it happens) what nursery did you get it from? They should replace it for you immediately if not first thing next season. This happened to me with one of my Austins Wildeve. It was NOT the flower I purchased (came out white and small). Austin's in Texas is sending me a replacement but I have to wait until next Jan. I hate waiting but I guess these things happen.
I'm with you Kentucky rose - I was very surprised to see bare roots still for sale a good month after the Canadian companies have stopped shipping, but the free shipping plus the $10 or so each rose special was too good to pass up. There were quite a few that I've only seen around on grafted varieties, so on sale is the way to go for me, since my grafted roses have a higher winter kill rate than own-root. At these prices I bought, well, more than I want to admit.
At this late date I was expecting either dried up small specimens or bare roots with gigantic gangling sprouts hanging off them like old potatoes, but to my surprise they looked both substantial and not too far along in development. With our unusually cold and wet spring, it was still a pretty safe bet planting here in zone 5, and I got them all in this past weekend before yet another rain storm. I was particularly happy to see this sale since two of the ones I bought were Hulithemas that I suspect are not going to be hardy in my zone - Bull's Eye and Eyeconic Pink Lemonade - but I'd been wanting to give those a try and the lower prices they were worth the gamble.
Always fun to have a pleasant surprise!
Cynthia
Oh yea....trust me I ordered a LOT...I ordered the first time when they first had the mix and match and paid shipping and couldn't resist then when they had mix and match with no shipping so I ended up buying 23 all together. I just moved into a house with 1/3 acre that hasn't been taken care of for years in San Jose, CA so really hoping that they all live and do well....ordered pretty much the same roses that everyone else did including the mustard & ketcup since it is gorgeous! I hope to get a lot of help from this site because I am sure I am going to need it :)
I have one planted about six months ago. It has now outgrown the trellis and is shooting large branches in the air. I will have to make a new trellis but the trouble is how to disentangle it from the obviously inadequate one. It is indeed a very vigorous rose. I am afraid if I try to cut it back to shrub size it will not bloom.
I have to say it does look very healthy and has bloomed already but not profusely. I live in Apopka
Not sure how many hours of sun this place gets...I'm guessing 4 to 6 of full in summer when leaves are on the oak tree - more when leaves are sparse. But it does get afternoon shade. I'm really glad to know it's alive and well in Apopka - that's not too far from here, tho I think we are more sandy and salty. Thanks for the responses! Here's hoping for copious blooms and a huge coupld of plants!!
", I believe I live in zone 7a"
Easy enough to check. Just go to the website below and enter your Zip code.
In warmer zones, the main reason to be planting the bud union at soil level is to stabilize the bush. A budded rose that is whipping around in the wind - which it will do if the union is SIGNIFICANTLY above the ground - is not good. Besides potentially breaking off canes, it will open up the soil to winter cold air getting to the roots.
Our budded roses are planted with the union at about soil level, and we went through Sandy and the subsequent noreaster without losing a cane.
Replanting correctly or raising the soil level are always available options, but before I opted for that major effort I would try staking the bushes and see how that works.
Here is a link that might be useful: USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map
U could always try a surround of cobblers and fill in with mulch. I have a few like this ( double d and Joseph's coat) and they have done quite well for several years. This will give you a few inches and it looks quite nice.
It also delineates the drip line..
I should add it survived this past winter without any protection as well, I completely forgot to spread leaves around my roses from my tree that I usually do because it started mild again and I thought it last the whole winter but it turned brutal and like typical zone 5 winter for me. Sorry Nippstress but I need to amend your post a little to "overwintered for him(not her) in zone 5". Sorry but I LOL'd a little.
Whoops, sorry about that Sir 'Venge! Since you didn't sign a real name I did a mindless coin flip and ended up on the wrong pronoun. Ah well, that Sweetvenge - HE's more convincing than ever that I should try Champagne Cocktail again since it survived without even winter leaf protection and a real winter to boot. Thanks for the update on both accounts, and I appreciate the humorous redirection.
Cynthia (she)
I accidently learned something about color combinations one day. I happened to browse upon a photo that was just what I wanted in my garden--several shades that varied somewhat--created a peaceful but not stagnant feel to the garden--EXCEPT for one rose shrub that clashed with everything else in the picture. Too bad that person had such bad taste, I thought, and put part of my hand over the offending shrub so that I could view the mild variations in the rest of the garden.
You know what--after viewing the garden with the loud clasher in it and then blocking it out, I discovered that the blocked out version was so serene that if was downright bland and boring! Startled, I included the clasher again--and suddenly the picture became dynamic and radiated lively energy
Since then, I sometimes deliberately insert a flower (any kind) that clashes a bit with its neighbors--nothing big and in-your-face, but small doses of clash. I like the energy the garden picks up and radiates when I do that.
Kate
I think the problem I am having with Neptune is that in a bed with bright red Don Juan, intense orange California poppies and before the once blooming iris. Is that it is just kind of dull. But the more I think about it, I think adding some more whites to spread the dull around and as the small lavenders and salvias grow the bed will gain a better balance. I have half of an arbor to fill, Don Juan on one side and either one more Don-Altissimo or Sombreuil.
For the hot pinks, I think I am just surprised at how many wanted to be hot pink this flush rather than the more normal colors they were for the first flush.
By the way... If there grafted Ko's bury the bud union
4"-6" below the ground in your area.
If own-root Ko's I'd bury 2" deeper then it was in the container it came in...
Belows a video:
Here is a link that might be useful: Bill Radler on the knockout rose
Around here, they really aren't happy campers after true zone 5 winters. I've seen a fair number over the years morph into something totally different.
Frontenac is a better choice, and what I would recommend. Some of the Meidiland roses also do well, but I can never remember which ones. There are other things besides Knock Outs that will do much better past KO's hardiness limit.
For an annual, I'd suggest the French Marigold, Targetes spp., which are supposed to be good at suppressing A. tumifaciens in the soil.
I'm trying them in a part of one bed that is where tobacco was planted for decades, but this year I had trouble getting Targetes seeds with a good germination rate.
My old aBe Darby has one large gross tumor every spring. It is disgusting. I cut that branch off and disinfect the pruners. This is a monster healthy rose in close quarters. None of the surrounding roses ever develop gall. The only time I have let an area go fallow, was when I was suspicious of RR.
Seil I lifted it up and added soil underneath and then put it back into the hole. Its raised up a bit more now and looks good.
I have another question for you. Another rose I planted near this one at the same time now has a couple of yellow leaves. The others I planted along the same flower bed are looking nice and green and already showing new growth. This one in particular is called the Just Joey. The soil is still pretty wet from a couple of days of heavy rain so i doubt its thirsty. Could these just be older leaves getting ready to drop? There are no spots or lines. The leaves are just yellowing as if they are old. These are all own-root about 6 inches tall. Just this one is not looking as good as the others. Am I just over reacting? Is this normal in such a young plant?
wish I could get these photos onto my computer from my phone. My usb cable for my cell looks like it needs to be replaced.
Anyway, I just took a photo of the leaves since I keep forgetting exactly what they look like by the time I get to my computer. The leaves DO have yellowing veins and some black spots. The outer edges of the leaves are still green but the veins are yellowing. Is this the sign of a deficiency?