22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
If I lived in a low disease area like yours, I would keep GJ. It's not only the fragrance but the perfect rosette form and nuanced color that make the flowers so special. I don't have experience with extreme heat, but you wouldn't expect much summer repeat under the best circumstances. If the plant sulks in summer, so much the less yardage of thorny cane to deal with.
And yes, the thorns are truly terrible.
I got 2 RdR bushes early spring...clearance of last year's roses at a nursery. They were sad looking when I picked them up, but recovered quickly and are already on their second flush...loving them! I've been wanting RdV, but don't have enough room for a big girl like that until I get a new bed ready. How is she on repeat for you...I've heard conflicting things on whether she repeats at all or only after several years of establishment?
Thanks everyone!
None of them are great repeaters here. RdR has the best with scattered blooms all season. RdV and HdB only give me a second bloom if I dead head deep in the spring. So after this flush is over I'll prune them back rather than just dead head. that usually gives me a smaller second bloom in late August.
Plant it in at least a one gallon pot ASAP. Then put that pot in partial shade for a few days. Then put the pot somewhere where it will not get so hot that it fries the baby rose - depends on your weather, etc. I tend to put mine on top of the soil in huge pots where other things are growing, so they are not sitting on hot pavement. Be sure to protect it from deer & other critters.
I leave mine in the one gallon pot for at least 6-12 months. Perhaps you should wait until next Spring to plant yours into the garden.
Jackie
I haven't tried growing any Austin in threes, but I can think of at least two which might work this way because of their smallish, compact growth: Tamora, a creamy soft apricot and The Prince with its very dark purple red blooms. I've had each for several years, and they don't seem to want to get huge, which is what I want, given their locations. They both, especially Tamora, have really lovely growth habits. No shooting canes, nothing popping out at odd angles. Diane
It seems to take DJ a while to get established. I'm with Ann--give it time. Do be careful of watering, tho. Clay can have drainage problems. Another thig to check is that there are no air pockets. Stick a couple of fingers in deep. The soil should be firm. Often, when bareroots get planted by nurseries, the soil is too loose. When it settles, it leaves air pockets.
Don't give up. Don Juan is a vigorous climber that produces an abundance of deep red roses. I grow two in full sun in Las Vegas. These plants receive sun from the a.m. Until about 4 p.m. .. It has been over 100 degrees for two weeks or more and the 90s before that. My first blooms were in early April and the bushes have not been absent roses since then. Anything that does well in this heat... Should survive moderate temperatures in other places barring winter damage....Good Luck! I hope you get to the bottom of it.
I have a rose bed which has a border of at least 2 feet wide walkway, then my lawn (bermuda) the Bermuda grass can grow underneath the 2 foot walkway and invade the rose bed. I don't think stone edging will keep it out. I just edge any beds with a gas edger attachment and pull out any stray grass that gets in my beds. Usually after a rain, they are easy to pull out.
Roses are more vulnerable to PM when their foliage isn't getting enough water from their roots, which often happens on young or transplanted roses. Keep the plant well watered though not drowning and as it settles in it may be more resistant, if it is not a cultivar prone to PM. Some are. You can spray off the foliage with water every morning, provided it is sunny/warm enough to dry in a few hours, to wash off spores. You could spray with a fungicide if you are really concerned.
PM spores float through the air for miles and miles, there isn't anything you can do about that except keep your plants as strong and healthy as possible, so their natural resistance can best protect them.
As hoov said the PM is just out there and only needs the right conditions to show up. Often times greenhouses have those conditions so it will show up there. Transplanting a rose can stress it and make it more susceptible too. You've planted it now in a good location so chances are it will clear up on it's own.
Thanks guys. I never would have thought just taking them outside would have made such a difference! They gt sun all day at their old spot , yet they were sickly. Like Seil said must be the lack of humidity.
Now I cant wait for the red gorgeous blooms. Will update a pic when they start.
OGRs (or any rose) can have better vase life if cut at the right time. If cut too late, then yes, they will have a short vase life. Most do best when just starting to open, sepals down, first row of petals unfurled. I have kept Marchesa Boccella for 5 days when cut at the right time (I exhibit from time to time).
OGRs (or any rose) can have better vase life if cut at the right time. If cut too late, then yes, they will have a short vase life. Most do best when just starting to open, sepals down, first row of petals unfurled. I have kept Marchesa Boccella for 5 days when cut at the right time (I exhibit from time to time).
For an annual, I'd suggest the French Marigold, Targetes spp., which are supposed to be good at suppressing A. tumifaciens in the soil.
I'm trying them in a part of one bed that is where tobacco was planted for decades, but this year I had trouble getting Targetes seeds with a good germination rate.
My old aBe Darby has one large gross tumor every spring. It is disgusting. I cut that branch off and disinfect the pruners. This is a monster healthy rose in close quarters. None of the surrounding roses ever develop gall. The only time I have let an area go fallow, was when I was suspicious of RR.