22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Good comments by Lyn.
Looking back, I need to say that my comment about drainage-not-a-problem was over-stated. I grew up on the Florida Ridge, and I tend to forget that so many people live in what used to be pine flat-woods, where the water table can rise to near the surface during the rainy season or after a hurricane, even when the topsoil is sandy. But the symptoms described by the OP don't sound like water-logging to me.
I, too, have heard that aphids get rid of thrips. My sad tale is that I used to have tons of aphids,but no thrips; I started spraying (my main hope was to get rid of beetles). It did nothing to the beetles, got rid of aphids , and now I'm pretty sure I have thrips (regular kind),since some "invisible bug" chews up the blooms so badly! So my new thing is : do NOT spray against insects! and hopefully Nature will balance things out again,and the aphids will come back...a sadder but wiser bart
Some thrips have a problem with high summer temps. Chilli thrips do not. I know they're still active because they're heavily damaging knockout roses that are used in the landscape around my neighborhood and town, and occasionally attacking other plants that I'm not spraying (papaya, hawthorne, hardy hibiscus, jasmine).
As for the actual products I'm using, I've used many - and haven't seen a huge variation in performance. The ultrarefined mineral oils (summer horticultural oil) are by far the least phytotoxic. In any case, I use them at night *after* the leaves have had a chance to cool down. As long as the leaf surface temperature is cool to the touch, and won't rise significantly in the next couple of hours, I don't see leaf damage. I've also used "Organocide". Finally, I've mixed plant oils directly with a surfactant (either soap or a non-ionic surfactant, sold as spreader-sticker). I've used canola, sesame, neem, karanja, mustard, as well as these oils infused with insecticidal spices/herbs. If there was any difference, I didn't see it. When used at less than ideal conditions, I did see light phytotoxicity when using plant oils.
I've used both Safer Insecticidal Soap (potassium salts of fatty acids) and Murphy Oil Soap (potassium salts of fatty acids, plus an amine oxide surfactant). Both work. Safer is slightly more expensive and easier on plants. When used in optimal conditions (low leaf surface temperature), I haven't seen any phytotoxicity from either product on roses. I have not tried using dish soap.
I have Nahema and it is proving to be a bit of a miff in that the amount of dieback this winter was astonishing. It is also a very stiff rose which is not amenable to training. On the other hand, it has a wonderful fragrance and the silvery pink blooms are classically elegant, lasting well in a vase. Put it in your warmest spot (it really doesn't appreciate cold winds). Vancouver Island sounds as if it has a climate very comparable to England.
Absolutely.
I posted a picture of my Sharifa Asma's first spring flush a few months back. Big, beautiful, palm sized, amber and blush colored, intoxicatingly fragrant blooms.
The bloom that just opened on Sharifa today was a singlet, nearly white, and lacked fragrance.
The heat does awful things to roses...awful things.
Josh
Yes, fish emulsion also adds micronutrients. See:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fish_emulsion
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
Hi Sue!
I have several DA's, all bought at local garden centers. You can check if there are any nurseries in your area that sell them (via DA's usa website). All of these were in 5 gal. pots, which really boosts your garden's maturity :) Also, this summer, I ordered a band size from Heirloom Roses. Which is nice, because they ship all year round.
In my garden, I have (from longest to newest):
-Windermere (petals shatter easily, but has a lovely myrrh/citrus smell)
-Abraham Darby (wonderful scent, very big/full blooms, good disease resistance in my zone 6)
-The Generous Gardner (really pretty, big blooms and nice fragrance)
-James Galway (smaller med. sized blooms, incredibly tight blooms that stay on for weeks)
-Charlotte (suffering from blackspot this year, slow to rebloom in this really wet weather)
-Munstead Wood (gorgeous dark red and old fashioned, quartered bloom, with phenomenal old rose fragrance)
-Crown Princess Margareta (just bought, no blooms yet, but it has taken off in its little band pot).
Just a note, from my experience DA roses tend to be rather bigger in US gardens (although, maybe MI will keep it a bit more restrained). So, just something to keep in mind when planning out their spaces in your garden :)
I am hoping Pickering roses in Canada will be allowed to send bare root david austins to US again next spring
Very inexpensive and I have over 50 that I have bought from hem over the years..Like about $15. Us each.
Us would not let them ship this past spring for some reason..
These roses will be just fine. Next year will be a whole new group of fresh leaves and flowers and it will look like a whole new plant. It's going to look a little bare for a while but keep up the steady care and watch for new strong shoots from the base. I would spread some mulch around the base if you haven't done it already after raking up old fallen leaves. Cut off anything that's obviously dead and dry.
The tan spots that evolve into holes might be spot anthracnose disease. It is usually not too destructive. Blackspot spots are dark with fringed or notched margins. Blackspotted leaves will yellow and drop after, typically, two or three weeks. It is good practice to pick blackspotted leaves.
During hot sunny periods of Summer I often spray down the leaves of trees, shrubs, Perennials and even annuals during the early morning hours when I know that the sun and humidity will allow the foliage to dry before noon, but also leaving enough moisture in the soil for days ahead.
Last year, during the severest drought in this location while I've been here, I discovered several ladybugs on my 'mother' rose plant. Later discovered Ladybugs on one of the daughter rose plants.
I too have wild areas around my garden, in fact entire forests define my landscape in a major way, and it seems to me that once the environment is correct, the Ladybugs will find a home and protect my roses from aphids.
It was the most amazing discovery that occurred during the more than 15 years at this location. :)
It's fine and dandy if they all fly away. What you want to have them do is lay a bunch of eggs before they all fly away.
The larvae of them eat 50x as many aphids as the adults do. They look like little alligators with red stripes. Once you get a crop of those going, balance will be restored to The Force.
Just never use pesticides so you don't kill them off in the future.
eggs
larva -- hungry!
Does anyone know if Nahema climbing rose will thrive on Vancouver Island? How about Eden climber?
As this summer was so hot, I'm wondering if the roses have papery petals, or heavier petals that won't fry.
Any other recommendations for very fragrant, disease-resistant and attractive roses would be much appreciated.
Pauline, Langford, Vancouver Island
In Zone 6 (at least in my region in Kansas) , it is best if you put the graft at soil level or a couple inches below. If it is at soil level, just provide some winter cover to help protect it. Apply the winter mulch after freezing weather arrives.
Of course if you have a winter like we had this past year, protection probably is not needed at all. Warmest winter I remember in this region.
Burying the graft 1-2 inches is the usual winter protection, but no, at this point I wouldn't dig up the whole plant in order to plant it deeper. Give it some winter protection and in the spring, when it blooms, see what you have. If Dr. Huey is all you have left, well, that tells you what to do, doesn't it!
Kate
Thanks to all. Lots of good info. Pembroke