22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
During hot sunny periods of Summer I often spray down the leaves of trees, shrubs, Perennials and even annuals during the early morning hours when I know that the sun and humidity will allow the foliage to dry before noon, but also leaving enough moisture in the soil for days ahead.
Last year, during the severest drought in this location while I've been here, I discovered several ladybugs on my 'mother' rose plant. Later discovered Ladybugs on one of the daughter rose plants.
I too have wild areas around my garden, in fact entire forests define my landscape in a major way, and it seems to me that once the environment is correct, the Ladybugs will find a home and protect my roses from aphids.
It was the most amazing discovery that occurred during the more than 15 years at this location. :)
It's fine and dandy if they all fly away. What you want to have them do is lay a bunch of eggs before they all fly away.
The larvae of them eat 50x as many aphids as the adults do. They look like little alligators with red stripes. Once you get a crop of those going, balance will be restored to The Force.
Just never use pesticides so you don't kill them off in the future.
eggs
larva -- hungry!
Does anyone know if Nahema climbing rose will thrive on Vancouver Island? How about Eden climber?
As this summer was so hot, I'm wondering if the roses have papery petals, or heavier petals that won't fry.
Any other recommendations for very fragrant, disease-resistant and attractive roses would be much appreciated.
Pauline, Langford, Vancouver Island
For those of you having trouble with Ebb Tide (I have three and they certainly have their issues), consider Twilight Zone, an offspring of Ebb Tide, and I think a much better rose, especially if you live in a hot, sunny area. TZ's blooms don't fade to murky pinks and other off colors for me. Diane
I'm afraid that if I put up a sign like that, I would have a few mountain lions in my back yard, since they do regularly show up in Boise, and almost always end up shot by Fish and Game. This really angers me, but those F&G guys always seem to have their lame reasons. I agree that too many predators have been "removed" from the environment, Ingrid. I don't know if being too dry is the reason you don't have deer, since it couldn't be any dryer than here (unless you mean Las Vegas--they may have us beat). At least I have my friends, the badgers. A week or two ago, some noodle brain tried to smoke out a badger in a draw about a hill over, and started a fire with his smoke bomb...and this right when Idaho had the largest fire going in the nation (near Sun Valley...California now has that honor). Neighbors said you could see the flames come up over the hill a couple of miles away. And all to get rid of a beneficial predator, the scourge of gophers. I haven't heard the latest about whether the fire starter is going to be billed for costs of putting the fire out--he should be. Diane
It's been so long since I've done this. The advice 25 years ago was to prune the HT after the danger of frost was over. My new HT are the first ones I've planted in over 20 years. I'll prune them in early February and strip the leaves. As for everything else, they will be pruned as needed. They have survived for a long time without being touched.
I THINK I MAKE THINGS SOUND WORSE THAN THEY ARE. BOTH BEDS, OLD AND NEW, ARE DOING BEAUTIFULLY. i'LL POST PICS WHEN I GET SOME DECENT ONES. AND THE NEW POTTED BABIES - CARDING MILL (NOW 17 DAYS OLD) HAS MUCH NEW GROWTH. AS DO -TEXAS, RED SUNBLAZE, & RAINBOW SUNBLAZE. I'M THRILLED WITH THEIR VIGOR. ALSO, AFTER ABOUT 16 MONTHS, FIRST PRIZE HAS FINALLY BEGUN TO LIVE UP TO HER NAME. THE LAST BUD WAS AS LONG AND BEAUTIFULLY FORMED AS ANYTHING I'VE EVER SEEN. IT ALSO LASTED FOR QUITE A BIT.
I KNOW THAT THEY ARE DOING WELL BECAUSE OF MY NEW FRIENDS ON THE FORUM.
THANKS AGAIN AND PICS LATER,
ANDREA
P.S. TEASING GEORGIA AND KOSMOS WILL BE DELIVERED ON THIS SATURDAY, ALONG WITH TWO
4.5 CU FT POTS, AND 6 BAGS OF ROSE SOIL...AND OF COURSE SEVERAL MORE SAUCER PLANT CADDIES.
My 10 year old has been on my case about it. He wants to create his very own, unique rose. He's a little disappointed with my plonk it in the dirt and hope for a clone way of doing things.
He is a ridiculously intelligent kid (why a higher power would bless/curse me with a genius I will never know. It's hard raising someone smarter than you. ) He has educated himself, read books and scoured the Internet for information. I've promised him that 2014 will be his year.
You never know Kim. One day he may be giving you a run for your money :-)
M
Lol!! Small world! Bummer u didnt win either:( His roses looked really good. For me the post office seems a bit lost around here, since im in a small town it took them 2xs as long as it should have. The post office sent my shipment to Fort Worth then Austin (im closer to Austin) then back to forth worth and back again to Austin to be sent here. Yea, I know ridiculous! With all that , the only problem my roses had was they started to get a bit dry. But I potted em up immediately and they haven't skipped a beat, several have buds getting ready to open! Yeah! I cant wait! The only thing I dont really care for is he seems to put antitranspirant on the leaves, he says so they dont lose too much moisture during shipping. My grandma says it doesn't work and the roses dont like it so I just wash it off. They're her roses so I just do as I'm told ;-) Good luck. I hope u win one!
-Lyna
HI Coryla
Welcome to GW, and you have a nice collection of unusual colored roses to get you well and truly hooked. At least half of my 700 roses are ones that are not "supposed" to grow in my zone, so like everyone else is saying, don't presume the worst because of their ratings. At the same time, I've also killed (and repeatedly killed) about as many roses as have survived, so there's no way of telling which roses will like your conditions until you give them a try.
For cold zone survival, you've already gotten some good advice. Odds are the roses you got are grafted, so if you didn't bury the graft well below soil level when you planted, you can either gently settle the plant lower in the soil now while it's still fresh and/or mound up some soil around the base of the plant to cover the graft (the knobby bit where the good canes sprout for the rose you want). Most of us in cold zones will do some of what ratdogheads talks about to aid the roses in winter survival, adding several inches of some organic material (hay, mulch, oak leaves) to the base of the rose to protect the lower cane. If you have consistent snow cover in SD, that helps winter survival too. Presumably you have the same fluctuating temperatures and high winds we do over the winter, and keeping some sort of NATURAL cover secure at the base of the rose once the ground is frozen will help reduce the effects of both of those factors.
You might rethink the styrofoam rose covers as a first choice as winter coverage for a couple of reasons. First, natural materials breathe better, and don't retain unnatural moisture (snow and other natural materials are fine). More roses die in my yard over the winter from canker associated with trapped moisture and fungus than from the cold itself. Also, make sure not to do any winter protection at all, whatever the method, before the weather is good and truly cold and the ground frozen. Otherwise, you build a haven for mice and other critters to gnaw off your rose all winter, or for humidity to do the same in less obvious fashion. I wait till the day temperatures average in the high 20's for at least a week. Roses can handle some cold, even the hybrid teas, and actually need some of that cold to go into their winter semi-dormancy. Lastly, the really unfortunate thing about those rose cones is that to fit them on a mature rose you'd have to cut off several feet of perfectly healthy cane in early winter to fit them on the rose. In cold zones, you want to keep as much healthy cane as feasible going into the winter, so there's still some good rose cane left in spring after you prune off winter damage.
It's your choice - I'm sure some folks have used the cones as well as any other protection method without problem, but your odds are much better with the more natural materials.
Cynthia
As Michael correctly stated, many people confuse cercospora and even anthracnose with black spot. Both of those diseases tend to produce "black spots" on leaves and information on them is not as widely publicized as is the information for black spot. Both diseases tend to appear in summer.
All that being said, in many parts of the US, true black spot can appear pretty much any time during the growing season depending on local weather conditions That is why it is important to establish a fungicide program for susceptible roses and STICK TO IT for the entire season.
As for different races of black spot, as has already been ,mentioned, there are at least five known pathogenic races of the fungus. Chances are there are more. So a rose that is resistant to one race may not be resistant to one or more of the others. However, all the races are controlled by widely available fungicides.
Roses - and plants in general - do not have the same immune system as is found in insects, birds, mammals, etc. In other words, specific plant individuals do not actually "develop" a resistance to a specific pathogen as they are exposed. - they either have the genetic resistance or they don't ( this is highly simplified, of course). In a practical sense, if your rose gets black spot, it won't become resistant to later infections - you will have to control the fungus.
I always have lots of blooms in August. Of course I prune for it because that is when our State Fair is. I always put in about 150 blooms. That is pretty good for that time of year.
Last year when it was so hot I still had 150 blooms in the show. I water heavily and feed once a week. I spray every 15 days. I still have bs on some of th bushes, but it's on the bottom and I pick it off.
I'm cut back so I have no blooms on the bushes during July. Also there is nothing for the jb to eat!
You have some fine looking roses!!!!!!!
I have good blooms now, too, because of the JBs :D I just pinched out the buds once they came full force. So JB season is the ugliest time here!
I actually didn't pinch Weeping China Doll, and she's in beautiful bloom now, too. That's my winner in my front garden. Even eaten by JBs, she looks like something very pink blooming, lol. The rest of the time, she's happy and gorgeous.
I like 'landscape' roses like her and Morey's Pink, Baby Blanket and Roseberry Blanket, La Marne, Iceberg and Alba Meid, though. They are in bloom so often that I make sure to put a workhorse like that in every section of my gardens.
My front pink garden has WCD, Morey's Pink, Baby Blanket and Bow Bells (along with even prettier-bloomed roses), and it's really always pink, somewhere :) And either the nepeta or lavenders or both are always in bloom there past a certain early date. I'm glad I like pale purple, lol.
To prevent this, use sharp pruners and cut 3/16" or 1/4" above a bud site (a leaf attachment or a bump where a leaf used to be). Don't leave longer stumps, and don't hack and tear the bark. The short stump may turn black, but it will stop where the new growth comes out.
Pictures don't show this clearly, but the plant must have preserved green bark below where the secondary shoots are growing out. Otherwise they would not be growing. If they are going to bloom, I would let them bloom, and then I would probably prune to the next bud site down below the dead bark.You don't need to worry about the dead area spreading indiscriminately. The plant will usually protect itself. It's just that, as Seil says, stubs above a bud site are not worth protecting.
Thanks all!
Nobody from the east grows this rose???