22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

In the spring, I often get super-healthy looking new canes and shoots growing off the rose bushes--sometimes off a cane, sometimes as a new cane coming out of the soil (I bury by grafts.) This is such a common spring occurrence that I do not get up-tight or nervous about it. Since this super-growth is prominent, I keep a general eye on it--but so far all the super-growth has merely "hardened off" or matured into a big strong cane with more vigor than the earlier canes but the blooms look about the same.

In other words, nothing weird has ever developed from the super-canes.

Kate

Thanks, Kate. That is good to know and I will keep an eye on her ...and the other 80 brats.
And no, Andre , it grows from the center. Today the thorns look more normal, less rubbery, and I see a color change back to normal.
Thanks all.

I have HT roses and am in eastern PA. Haven't had any problems with fungus yet. I keep mine well spaced for ventilation. The only rose bush I have with a fungal problem is an old red rose bush that was here when we bought the house 20+ years ago. Not even sure what it is. But there is a very large forsythia bush planted on the neighbors side of the fence. I don't know if that bush holds a lot of moisture or if its just blocking the air flow. Today I trimmed her forsythia way back and rounded it out for her so hopefully my rose bush will grow better without all of that competition for air and space.

Where abouts in PA are you? I'm right on the Delaware River north of Philly.

....and a lady bub nymph just crawled across my laptop screen. Too funny!

Here's a couple more

Thanks for all your help!

Kristopher

Dr. Huey is much darker and smaller. I just dug up a Dr. Huey that I've had for a few years after the graft died off. Yours does not look like a Dr. Huey to me based on the color and size of the blooms. Dr. Huey is a darker red like a red wine kind of red.

I know that feeling. Plant them and bask in your victory. :)

I know that feeling. I have searched high and low for a few particular roses in the past, and when I found them, felt like dancing... now I hope they do well in my new home in the Maritimes of Canada... Good luck with your new roses ! They continue to be a passion for me, even with the new challenges of this area.

I had rabbits chew our new double Ko's to the ground.
So I put cages around smaller roses now to prevent that from happening until roses get alittle bigger...
Just a thought....

I just used fencing I had laying around...
I have 6 roses out front & 4 roses are smaller ....
I'll let them have space this year to grow a good
root system... Next year I'll add some other types of
plants along with the rose...

like whats ben said they do grow quickly, and do great where ever they are put. here are 2nd year kos i have.

Some leaf cutters , too. What a smorgasbord!

There was 1 season my KO Rainbow was completely skeletonized by Sawfly catterpilars ~ almost overnight!!!

As Jim suggested check the backside of the leaves for the larvae munching the leaves.

Cornell Univ formula is easy & inexpensive to mix spray the underside in early AM or sundown ~ should halt the damages done!!!

Good luck!

Hi Kathleen ~ $40+ is much, too much ~ if you are interested in acquiring very reasonable OSO Easy young plants ~ contact Karl Bapst the Rosenut - ARS Consulting Rosarian in IN via email rosenut@rosenut.com. Google his site as well ~ I got my 10 OSO E babies from him last year.

Now that it has finally cooled down w/ only occasional daytime highs of 90s+ all of them are taking off. Beacause they are still young their stems still tend to arch from the weight of the sprays/clusters of blooms. I particularly favor Mango Salsa ~ so vibrant & festive & as I described quite an enthusiastic performer & compact in form. Honey Bun also is compact & a good bloomer w/ tight clusters but fade quickly!

I'm still wondering about Strawberry C ~ the only one of the cousins, not as good at showing off her stunning beauty ~ hopefully next season she will.

Peachy C's blooms sprays are not as tight as the others especially now that she has stretched out her limbs up to 4ft ~ again I'm sure in time, after the hard pruning come Spring. I also suspect her part/sun exposure may have to do w/ her leggy-ness ~ where as SC is leggy despite being in full/sun.

I'm quite pleased w/ Paprika's growth habit ~ quite compact under full/sun & not at all shy in showing off her perky, simple blooms, tho clusters not as tight as MS or SC & sheds off daily as next buds open up to replace. Can't wait how she'd be next season!

Isn't it fun when the younguns love to be helpers ~ my grand-dau was mine ~ even wished for & helped create a walk around a tree w/ brick tiles when she was merely 3 ~ neighbor kids love hopping around & around singing & playing kiddie band instuments!

FWIW ~ just updating on the 10 OSO Easy in this piece of soil! Spring came quite late this season ~ consequently, so did all the blooming beauties around.

The very first of the now 3rd season pretties are the 3 Paprikas ~ flushed in abundance end of May!

The rest are now just starting. Strawberry C. first few seem paler than last Fall's production ~ however so loaded w/ buds. Will report back once the show is in full swing! Also shaped her wayward stems closer into a decent shape!

Usually our Heirloom repeat blooming roses get blooms about 4 weeks or so after there planted into the ground.
I never grew a climber or once bloomer so have no idea about those types...

Congrats on getting your roses!

wow Jim thats fast! Just 4 weeks? I'll keep my eyes on these for buds! The Polka was the largest of the 3 and has the most stems and leaves. I will be thrilled if these bloom this year.

Rose Rosette was first identified in Florida over a decade ago on Hybrid Musks in Good Wood Gardens up in the panhandle. The ID was by someone in the County Extension service.

Since then we have found that Rosa laevigata (the Cherokee Rose) does get RRD and the closest I've had it reported to Florida is south of Charleston SC (so far.)

henry_kuska,

Thank you!

It turns out my "paranoid supposition" IS scientific after all.

Here is a link that might be useful: Paranoia is phoresy, not fallacy

This post was edited by sandandsun on Sat, Jun 8, 13 at 13:23

Wait for the predaceous thrips population to surge. It happens every year once the thrips populations are there.

Low impact yellow sticky traps (yellow Dixie cups with stickum on them) can make a difference.

Light blue sticky traps also attract thrips and don't look as bad. Light colored bowls of water on the ground in the garden will also catch some thrips. They aren't real bright.

This scientific article reports that ". Cats fed PG had a dose-related increase in Heinz bodies within 2 weeks, and the increase persisted throughout the study."

"Mean RBC survival was decreased in the groups fed 6 or 12% PG by 30 and 55%, respectively, compared with the control group."

H. Kuska comment: Although they only had three sets of data 0%, 6%, and 12%, the finding of a dose dependence and persistence of damage may be important as it suggests (to me) that exposure to lower doses for a longer time period may be of concern regarding the long term health of the cat.

Here is a link that might be useful: research paper

In my first reply I should have been more emphatic about this point: "micronized" sulfur is more effective than "wettable" sulfur and so you can use less to get the same result. Micronized is finer and so gives more thorough coverage. "Garden sulfur" that doesn't specify "wettable" is the coarse grade and is unsuitable for spraying. It can be used to acidify soil or repel ticks and chiggers. This grade also might be labelled "flowers of sulfur."

How much fertilizer is needed depends on the soil type. Soils with substantial clay or organic content hold nutrients. Sand (especially) and silt do not. Roses in very sandy soil can use a dose every 4 weeks. Roses that are heavily pruned each year need more fertilizer than those that grow as they will. Repeaters need more than once bloomers. I have a once bloomer that has grown larger and bloomed heavily for twenty years with no fertilizer or irrigation. It is on a clay bank.

NPK ratios from 1-1-1 to 3-1-2 are suitable. Roses use more nitrogen than anything else. If you have pretty good soil and get it tested, chances are the report will say you need only add nitrogen on a regular basis. Mulching with yard waste may provide enough for shrub roses like KO.

We have an exhibitor in our rose show that has won all the national trophies to be had--he uses 10-10-10 on his roses.

I got a soil test and figured out that I can use even cheaper fertilizer. And, because I have clay soil, my roses grow well with just a fraction of the fertilizer used by those who roses in well draining sandy soil.

This post was edited by zack_lau on Sat, Jun 8, 13 at 15:40

Haha Cynthia! I meant to take care of them but school and work got in the way! Thanks for the tips!

If they're in bloom I'd wait for them to finish and then when I dead head cut deep and do my pruning/shaping then to set them up for the next flush.

Thanks everybody for your suggestions.

Yes, I use garden soil, but my three other rose bushes seem to thrive well in them.

Will try and wash the plant to get rid of mites.

Thank You

For containers you really need to get real potting soil. Garden soil is very heavy and dense and will retain too much water and roses do not like to sit in wet soil. Next, those pots do not look big enough for a full size rose. find some larger pots and I'd recommend plastic or resin ones too. Clay or ceramic pots can also absorb water and hold it from the roses. It also looks like it's against a brick or block wall. You don't say where you are at but if the weather has been very hot it could be getting too much reflected heat from that wall. The rose really doesn't look like it's dying, just a bit stressed.