22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I know that feeling. I have searched high and low for a few particular roses in the past, and when I found them, felt like dancing... now I hope they do well in my new home in the Maritimes of Canada... Good luck with your new roses ! They continue to be a passion for me, even with the new challenges of this area.
I had rabbits chew our new double Ko's to the ground.
So I put cages around smaller roses now to prevent that from happening until roses get alittle bigger...
Just a thought....
I just used fencing I had laying around...
I have 6 roses out front & 4 roses are smaller ....
I'll let them have space this year to grow a good
root system... Next year I'll add some other types of
plants along with the rose...
There was 1 season my KO Rainbow was completely skeletonized by Sawfly catterpilars ~ almost overnight!!!
As Jim suggested check the backside of the leaves for the larvae munching the leaves.
Cornell Univ formula is easy & inexpensive to mix spray the underside in early AM or sundown ~ should halt the damages done!!!
Good luck!
Hi Kathleen ~ $40+ is much, too much ~ if you are interested in acquiring very reasonable OSO Easy young plants ~ contact Karl Bapst the Rosenut - ARS Consulting Rosarian in IN via email rosenut@rosenut.com. Google his site as well ~ I got my 10 OSO E babies from him last year.
Now that it has finally cooled down w/ only occasional daytime highs of 90s+ all of them are taking off. Beacause they are still young their stems still tend to arch from the weight of the sprays/clusters of blooms. I particularly favor Mango Salsa ~ so vibrant & festive & as I described quite an enthusiastic performer & compact in form. Honey Bun also is compact & a good bloomer w/ tight clusters but fade quickly!
I'm still wondering about Strawberry C ~ the only one of the cousins, not as good at showing off her stunning beauty ~ hopefully next season she will.
Peachy C's blooms sprays are not as tight as the others especially now that she has stretched out her limbs up to 4ft ~ again I'm sure in time, after the hard pruning come Spring. I also suspect her part/sun exposure may have to do w/ her leggy-ness ~ where as SC is leggy despite being in full/sun.
I'm quite pleased w/ Paprika's growth habit ~ quite compact under full/sun & not at all shy in showing off her perky, simple blooms, tho clusters not as tight as MS or SC & sheds off daily as next buds open up to replace. Can't wait how she'd be next season!
Isn't it fun when the younguns love to be helpers ~ my grand-dau was mine ~ even wished for & helped create a walk around a tree w/ brick tiles when she was merely 3 ~ neighbor kids love hopping around & around singing & playing kiddie band instuments!
FWIW ~ just updating on the 10 OSO Easy in this piece of soil! Spring came quite late this season ~ consequently, so did all the blooming beauties around.
The very first of the now 3rd season pretties are the 3 Paprikas ~ flushed in abundance end of May!
The rest are now just starting. Strawberry C. first few seem paler than last Fall's production ~ however so loaded w/ buds. Will report back once the show is in full swing! Also shaped her wayward stems closer into a decent shape!
Rose Rosette was first identified in Florida over a decade ago on Hybrid Musks in Good Wood Gardens up in the panhandle. The ID was by someone in the County Extension service.
Since then we have found that Rosa laevigata (the Cherokee Rose) does get RRD and the closest I've had it reported to Florida is south of Charleston SC (so far.)
henry_kuska,
Thank you!
It turns out my "paranoid supposition" IS scientific after all.
Here is a link that might be useful: Paranoia is phoresy, not fallacy
This post was edited by sandandsun on Sat, Jun 8, 13 at 13:23
This scientific article reports that ". Cats fed PG had a dose-related increase in Heinz bodies within 2 weeks, and the increase persisted throughout the study."
"Mean RBC survival was decreased in the groups fed 6 or 12% PG by 30 and 55%, respectively, compared with the control group."
H. Kuska comment: Although they only had three sets of data 0%, 6%, and 12%, the finding of a dose dependence and persistence of damage may be important as it suggests (to me) that exposure to lower doses for a longer time period may be of concern regarding the long term health of the cat.
Here is a link that might be useful: research paper
In my first reply I should have been more emphatic about this point: "micronized" sulfur is more effective than "wettable" sulfur and so you can use less to get the same result. Micronized is finer and so gives more thorough coverage. "Garden sulfur" that doesn't specify "wettable" is the coarse grade and is unsuitable for spraying. It can be used to acidify soil or repel ticks and chiggers. This grade also might be labelled "flowers of sulfur."
How much fertilizer is needed depends on the soil type. Soils with substantial clay or organic content hold nutrients. Sand (especially) and silt do not. Roses in very sandy soil can use a dose every 4 weeks. Roses that are heavily pruned each year need more fertilizer than those that grow as they will. Repeaters need more than once bloomers. I have a once bloomer that has grown larger and bloomed heavily for twenty years with no fertilizer or irrigation. It is on a clay bank.
NPK ratios from 1-1-1 to 3-1-2 are suitable. Roses use more nitrogen than anything else. If you have pretty good soil and get it tested, chances are the report will say you need only add nitrogen on a regular basis. Mulching with yard waste may provide enough for shrub roses like KO.
We have an exhibitor in our rose show that has won all the national trophies to be had--he uses 10-10-10 on his roses.
I got a soil test and figured out that I can use even cheaper fertilizer. And, because I have clay soil, my roses grow well with just a fraction of the fertilizer used by those who roses in well draining sandy soil.
This post was edited by zack_lau on Sat, Jun 8, 13 at 15:40
For containers you really need to get real potting soil. Garden soil is very heavy and dense and will retain too much water and roses do not like to sit in wet soil. Next, those pots do not look big enough for a full size rose. find some larger pots and I'd recommend plastic or resin ones too. Clay or ceramic pots can also absorb water and hold it from the roses. It also looks like it's against a brick or block wall. You don't say where you are at but if the weather has been very hot it could be getting too much reflected heat from that wall. The rose really doesn't look like it's dying, just a bit stressed.
Inkspot does fairly well in my garden as a "black" rose. I think it's eligible to be included on the list of others mentioned such as Black Baccarra.
No offense to those who've mentioned them, but there's still a big difference between roses marketed as "black" versus dark reds such as Oklahoma, Taboo, Kardinal, etc. Heck, Mister Lincoln is as dark as my Oklahoma sometimes while still in bud. Nevertheless, Inkspot is several shades darker and stays that way in full sun. While in near bud, there's no comparison.
My only complaint is that while the bush is very vigorous and healthy, it's very lean and tall. Inkspot flowers are borne exclusively in singles, on top of thick, 4-5 foot long canes. This can look a bit odd when the flower is only 3-4" dia. at most.
If you want something definitely blacker than the "blackest" reds, it might be a good choice. I've had no issue with the bush and except for the lean form (think a taller and slenderer ML), it doesn't lack in vigor at all.
So I ended up canceling my order for the Ebb Tide a couple of months ago, because they kept sticking it on backorder, and I was leaving town for a few weeks in May and didn't want to miss it. The same day, I stopped by a local garden shop and happened upon a super-healthy-looking Twilight Zone.
The thing has dwarfed all the other tea roses in my garden in the past month and a half, and has about two dozen buds on it, which appear to be a day or two away from blooming. The sepals have already fallen away from two or three of them, and the buds are the most amazing reddish plum. I cannot WAIT to see what this guy does over this season - and I have NEVER seen such a healthy monster of a purple rose!
Thank you so much for all of your help!
(oh yeah, and speaking of new cultivars, I impulse-bought Love Song last weekend, too - we'll see how it fares!)
Just thought I'd respond to your wish list from another zone 5 roseaholic. I doubt that Duquesa de Peñaranda or Angèle Pernet would survive well in your yard, as I've had bad hardiness from the Pernetianas and Dot roses in my zone. I also have had Belle Epoque die on me, but only once so far (which means it has two more tries) and since Mike grows it in his Michigan yard it should be fine. Jocelyn's another notorious wimp that isn't likely to get another chance with me.
Among the other ones, Black Lady is a sturdy rose that mostly laughs at winter - the blooms are small but that elusive dark red I seek out. Peggy Rockefeller doesn't bloom as often but her blooms are delicious dark red and larger, and she survives in my zone 4 pocket. Aloha is tall and narrow and just in its fourth year growing beyond the 6' pillar it has been - reliably hardy, healthy and well formed blooms. I have both Polarstern and Paloma Blanca in the same bed, and Polarstern is definitely hardier and taller. I'll have to try Paloma Blanca on a warmer side of the house.
Savoy Hotel has been a reliable tall bloomer, very healthy, though not as much rebloom as I'd like. Scarlet Velvet blooms off and on in my HT back bed and isn't particularly memorable for me, but that also means it's trouble free. Chic is a nice blend of colors and relatively modest grower so far in its 3rd year. Roberto Capucci is just in his second year, but a friend in my zone swears by him for regular fragrant double blooms.
I'll bet no one in your neighborhood but the rest of the rose fanatics has heard of any of these roses, so in that sense they all are "rare" roses, and worth bringing to broader circulation. The more we grow these roses, the more excitement we hope to build in your average gardener to try them for themselves.
Cynthia
Basically, something would be considered "rare" if there are few to no nurseries offering it. Take a look at the 'Buy From' tab on HMF. if there are only one or two nurseries in the US offering it, and you think it interesting and potentially successful in your garden (or worth fussing over) consider it as a possibility. But, I agree. I've collected things simply because they were rare and in MANY cases, they are rare for very good reasons. Some simply didn't receive the hype they needed to enjoy a wide distribution. MANY more are rare because they aren't good garden plants. They lack vigor or they are very susceptible to diseases or they just don't flower. My collecting days occurred in a place which was generally quite good for most more modern roses and any type of China, Tea, Noisette and their like. It was not good for cold hardy, European, once flowering OGRs as there was too much summer heat with too little winter chill. The season was too long with insufficient winter to trigger the plants to shed their leaves. So, "rare" doesn't always mean suitable, or even "good". Kim
Here's a couple more
Thanks for all your help!
Kristopher
Dr. Huey is much darker and smaller. I just dug up a Dr. Huey that I've had for a few years after the graft died off. Yours does not look like a Dr. Huey to me based on the color and size of the blooms. Dr. Huey is a darker red like a red wine kind of red.