22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
sara--the nurseries that sell roses grafted on Dr. Huey? Everybody else. In other words, most of them--with some of the notable exceptions listed above.
Personally, doesn't make much difference to me whether my roses are own -root or grafted. They all grow well here. Perhaps there might be a weakly growing rose here or there that could use an extra-vigor boost by being grafted, but most of the ones I grow, it doesn't make any difference. Perhaps it makes a difference on the OGRS--I only grow a handful of them, so I couldn't say for sure. I guess those with alkaline soils have some problems with certain kinds of grafts--but that isn't a problem that most gardeners face.
Kate
I am surprised to admit I most roses own root in my garden. They seem more even and possibly more vigorous after 2 years. Plus it just is so much easier not having to fret over my bud unions getting damage from borers, freeze thaw etc. My own roots are much broader plants at the base and have better overall shape by 3 years.
Hello, all! Very happy to find this thread today!
I'm having an indoor rose aphid problem. I read through the posts - and some other pages as well - and am going to try the garlic w/ 1 tsp soap mix on my rose when I get home. I will post about how it turns out!
For now though - this is the infestation I've got. :/
I am a little bit new to gardening; I always helped my Father with his rose garden when I was growing up, but this year is my first year with my own. I've had indoor potted roses for a few years, usually minis. I've never really had many problems with them before though. Minis are pretty tough lil guys. (I actually have one that is planted in my garden that is still blooming despite the snow on the ground!)
This time I have a David Austin Charity rose that I'm attempting to get started indoors. I purchased it late in the season, and I did not think it was established enough to survive outdoors with my planted minis during the winter. Therefore, I am not trying so much to get a lot of blooms, but rather keep it alive and as healthy as possible until spring when I can transplant it to its permanent home.
I just wanted to post this picture before I go spraying things in case there were any suggestions specific to this. :) I'm fairly certain that these are adult winged female aphids. Before I left for Thanksgiving vacation I found the little green aphids all over it, and I gave it a hard spraying and pruned it back hoping that would help. When I returned, it looks like this now. :(
I grew a hybrid tea (Black Madonna, zone 6) a few years ago in a very large clay pot outside. I was overwintering it in the unheated, attached garage. It had done well overwintering in there the year before. I brought it out into the living room, (I think it was in February, I was starving for flowers!) where there were large South-facing windows. It leafed out, and produced two beautiful blooms that helped with my February-rose Fever! The blooms hadn't faded yet, but already in a few days they were quite heavily infested with spider mites. Once it was safe outside, I brought it out. It suffered for a while that summer from the spider mite infestation. I think I might try again this winter, and prune/pinch it to prevent it from being leggy, apply insecticidal soap, mist it, maybe I'll keep a bag of manure in the garage to feed it once a month or so... Boy was it great though to have such big beautiful blooms for a bit in the dead of winter! We get alot of snow and usually a week of -40C every winter. I'd be willing to try it again.
Alison, make the distinction between canes (or stems) and leaves. You can remove leaves without cutting the canes.
Leaves use water at a prodigious rate until they wilt. Canes lose relatively little water, and they contain stored nutrients that will help restart growth once the roots can get enough water. I'd suggest stripping off half the leaves, starting at the top, because new growth will come later at the top. If it's a big awkward plant, cut the canes back if you want to. If digging left few roots attached to soil, remove more than half of the leaves, or even all of them.
Lawn or deck chairs are handy for shading transplants. If you remove all the leaves, there is no need to shade.
I'm sorry some people misunderstood the article I referred to - it does not refer only to trees. .
I agree that more work might need to be done regarding transplanting roses in dry climates like SoCal. The research that I am aware of was done in moderate climates - places like OH (where the OP lives) and NJ (where I live). That was the context I was replying in - I would not tell someone who lives in a place like SoCal what to do.
BTW, for a long time I DID top prune woody plants at transplanting time - not just roses - because that was the way I had always done it. I didn't base that on any science or on any real research behind the practice - it was just the way it was. I never questioned it until I became aware of the work that had been done on no-prune transplanting. . For about five years now, I have not top pruned when transplanting roses, and haven't had any problems doing it that way.
Here is a link that might be useful: MYTHS ABOUT TRANSPLANTING ROSES
In my experience with Bayer Disease Control for Roses etc, you get good control by just covering the top surfaces. I recommend that you try that to reduce the amount of fungicide used.
When I used sulfur, I was careful to spray both surfaces, because sulfur washes off easily and isn't super effective.
The great majority of particular local blackspot infections occur on the upper leaf surface. How can you tell the difference? Such spots do not usually bleed through to the lower surface. But spots that start on the lower surface do bleed through to the upper a few days later.
Well a just-planted body-bag is likely not going to have mature flowers. Give it time to settle in and you may get many many more petals and better form and a more accurate ID.
Babies can't run marathons; baby roses don't produce the flowers they are capable of producing when established.
I often wonder about this. I planted a Garden Party and a Peace rose at the same time (same source) and both have flowered, too. They are both very full, petal wise. I understand they are also related, which may explain the habit.
I guess some roses just have to grow into themselves! I will give it some time and see if this one does the same.
Andrea, sometimes GW times you out. I don't know why, but sometimes it does. I've found by hitting the back button, it takes me back to the screen where I was typing my post. I often copy it from here, take it to my email program and paste it into an empty email to be worked until I'm happy with it. I can easily check spelling there, too. Once completed, I copy it there and bring it here to paste into the window to be posted. The next time you're timed out, try your back arrow or back button and see if that takes you back where you wrote what you wanted. You can then copy and bring it forward. Hope it helps. Kim
The acres of Knockouts used in landscaping around here has turned into acres of witches brooms. And no one is doing anything other than hard pruning to get rid of the growth. So far, about 80% of the KOs seem to be living just fine with the disease. The existing non altered canes continue to produce normal growth and blooms. And the affected canes produce monstrosities. The hard pruning that the blow and go guys practice rarely kills them. They just continue spreading the disease far and wide on the wind, with no one caring to do anything about it.
I've lot around 200 roses to RR.
I'm not planting any more.
It's too heartbreaking.
Same here... I had a soil test done a couple years ago and everything was good... soft clay soil...
I have been applying mulch, compost, etc for years.
That's all I need here as the use of fertilizer (esp granular) has caused me some problems...
So I'm going back to what works best for me here...
Applying mulch, compost, etc. on top of soil...
You know even 1-2 cups of coffee grounds has caused me slight problems here at times also...
Just don't need it here...
I agree with the other posters 100% about P...
This post was edited by jim1961 on Thu, Jun 6, 13 at 20:02
Growth Response of Tomatoe Plants to Applied Sucrose
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
"My understanding is that the Bayer fungicide (not the Bayer 3-in-1 or 2-in-1) is not harmful to bees."
Kate is right, the Bayer tebuconazole (Disease Control for Roses, Flowers and Shrubs) is rated a minimal hazard to bees, birds, and earthworms. It is a significant hazard to aquatic creatures--keep it away from streams and ponds.
Andrea, I prune my mature HTs to around 18" every spring when growth starts. For tall-growing varieties like Frederic Mistral and Elina, I may spring-prune to 12" once they have developed a whole lot of basal canes. However, I understand most California growers prune to 24" or 30", so I guess they find they get more flowers that way.
Understand that I don't have experience in California--but, If you think Pristine's bare knees are unsightly, I think you could cut her back to 18" at the end of spring or summer flush, but then she'll be bare for three weeks. The caveats that occur to me are that green bark could sunburn if it is very hot, and, if you don't irrigate much during summer drought, that could interfere with refoliation. Of course early next spring would be fine.
My experience is that the worst time to prune a rose is after the big spring flush--roses work very hard to put out flowers--they may sulk if you remove all the leaves by hard pruning after they have just bloomed.