22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
"My understanding is that the Bayer fungicide (not the Bayer 3-in-1 or 2-in-1) is not harmful to bees."
Kate is right, the Bayer tebuconazole (Disease Control for Roses, Flowers and Shrubs) is rated a minimal hazard to bees, birds, and earthworms. It is a significant hazard to aquatic creatures--keep it away from streams and ponds.
The question is, did it die because of the stems turning black, or did the stems turn black because it died of a root infection that cut circulation off to the stems? You can see by the wrinkled texture of the still-green portion of the canes that no circulation is getting up to the canes from the roots. They are shriveled.
Look at the roots, are they rotted, soft, gooey? Did the soil smell sour and foetid when you pulled the rose out of the ground? Is the area constantly soggy? Those conditions would point to rot.
Is it possible a large pet dog urinated several times on the rose and gave it such a blast of ammonia that the rose was poisoned? Did it accidentally get too much fertilizer? That would point to death by chemical damage.
A bacterial infection would be another possible culprit--are there other problem plants in your yard?
Thanks everyone. I've cleared out the pachysandra, but left the alium. I cut all of the canes just below where it's brown, above the lowest node. I used sharp cutters and cleaned them with part 1 bleach/9 water between cuts. I'll watch it closely and hopefully it rebounds. I'd hate to think I killed a rose that's been around for so long.
I appreciate all of your help. Thanks again.
Looks good, Becifer - I can already hear the rose breathing a sigh of relief and getting ready to stretch its arms out to bloom. In this latest photo, it does look like you have a grafted rose with the graft about 2" above the soil. At least by wintertime, you'll want to protect that graft by adding soil around the base of the plant. You can certainly build up the soil around the base of the plant to cover the graft now if you wish, as opposed to trying to rebury the rose with graft deeper (which is wa-a-a-a-y too much work for the likes of me). I figure that roses are survivors, and if this rose has been through many of your winters it's liable to handle itself regardless of too many details of what you do with it. You're off to a great start regardless.
If you want to encourage it to put out some new branches ("basal breaks") from the base of the plant, it's useful to work some alfalfa into the soil near the rose. I'm pretty lazy and just sprinkle on some alfalfa hay and rustle it into the top layer of soil or mulch near the rose. Alfalfa is usually sold as animal feed, and you can see small bags of it sold in the guinea pig/hamster section if you have the one rose and don't want to buy the 50 lb. horse bales like me! Just avoid the ones that have added salts if you can.
Have fun and post us pictures of the rose when it blooms for you!
Cynthia
In addition to beautiful pics (spelled correctly -- LOL), you have some of my favorites here. That Scepter'd Isle is wonderful--I'm waiting for my newly planted Isle to put out her first bloom--several buds right now--I hope mine is as lovely as yours.
Oregold and Clair Matin are very nice also!
Colorific is new to me, but I love that color.
Kate
Anything is possible, but the foliage in your photo looks more Broadway to me than Sheila's Perfume. Sheila's is more heavily embossed than how it appears in your photo. Broadway's coloring here is more along the lines of your photo, where Sheila's is more painted looking rather than a "blush" or "sun burn". But, it IS possible it is Sheila in a different climate "disguise". It's as good a guess as Broadway. Kim
Thanks for bringing this to our attention. While I'm glad that rose rosette is getting noticed and attention, I don't think all the information in the article is correct or useful. Things like "Don't plant roses close together so they are touching" doesn't matter since the mites travel on the wind and I've gotten it on single plants in rose beds and prompt removal of the virused plants prevented it from spreading to nearby plants it was touching. The article also implies that the virus was naturally caused and spread by multiflora rose and not a virus introduced by HUMANS and purposefully spread to KILL multiflora rose.
Handel was born in 1685 in Halle, Duchy of Magdeburg, to Georg Händel and Dorothea Taust.[3] His father, 63 when George Frideric was born, was an eminent barber-surgeon who served the court of Saxe-Weissenfels and the Margraviate of Brandenburg.[4] According to Handel's first biographer, John Mainwaring, he "had discovered such a strong propensity to Music, that his father who always intended him for the study of the Civil Law, had reason to be alarmed. He strictly forbade him to meddle with any musical instrument but Handel found means to get a little clavichord privately convey'd to a room at the top of the house. To this room he constantly stole when the family was asleep".[5] At an early age Handel became a skilful performer on the harpsichord and pipe organ.[
one other thing i dont see mentioned ...
NEVER water in the evening.. by spraying down the plant ...
molds/mildews/etc.. thrive in the dark.. at night. when it balmy ... and wetting the leaves.. just encourages them ...
it is the sole reason i bought and use a breaker bar.. otherwise known as a watering wand ...
roses are one of the few plants.. where you must water the soil .. not the plant ... which can be problematic ... if you have a sprinkler system ...
also .. consider getting a more carefree variety ... i gave up on roses ... because of all the feeding.. spraying.. etc ... many are just too foo.. as in foo foo ...
ken
Just getting back to GardenWeb after a long distraction.
If that 3-in-1 product contains imidacloprid, just be aware that that chemical is suspected of causing the decline of honey bees and several of our native bees, particularly bumble bees. The insecticide is systemic - taken up into the plant tissues - and often present in the pollen and nectar, delivering a sub-lethal dose to the foraging insect, which transports it back to the nest or hive where it is fed to the developing larvae or stored for future use.
To choose the best roses for your region, check to see if your local or state Rose Society has a list of such roses. Ours has their list of recommended roses and "no-spray" roses on their web site.
Roses are more vigorous than most people give them credit for. Do your best to meet their cultural requirements for best results. I focus on adding plenty of organic matter (compost) to my sandy soil to improve soil structure, water retention, fertility and biological activity and I feed the roses well, but never after Labor Day, as they need to stop pushing new growth that won't have time to harden off before frost.
If you are going to start any kind of spray or soil drench regimen, it is important to follow the directions as to rates and timing - you cannot let up or you give the fungus a window of opportunity to infect your plants.
The shipping costs to PNW is high. I don't blame the sellers (they have to charge the buyer the price mandated by postal carriers).
I wish postal carriers would give small businesses a break with the shipping charges. It would really help the buyer and the seller.
Oh, I didn't realize you had amended the topsoil so well already. So you only need be concerned about the subsoil. If you judge it is too bad for roots to penetrate at all, then amending it might help your roses during the California dry season.
I would treat the topsoil and subsoil separately rather than mixing them. Remove the topsoil from the rose holes, reserve it in a pile, and use a pick to break up the subsoil into chunks. Add some manure and compost and a cup or two of gypsum and mix a bit. Then replace the topsoil so it is uniform across the bed. This is the old technique called "double digging."
I would till the Turface into the topsoil of the whole bed. Again, it is best if the soil is fairly uniform across the area.
I (with a lot of help) will do as you suggest.
I just picked up my 7 new beauties at Regan's. The first were purchased from a friend...NOT A GOOD IDEA. The first 6 looked like weeds compared to these.
I also purchased a good (I think) pair of garden shears, ARS brand. I hope this is a good selection.
I will send photos as soon as all roses are in place.
And thank you all once again.
andrea
yep, absolutely, turnbuckles - we call them straining wires and they are essential to avoid the saggy wire look and can be tightened as the wires will be ductile and stretch a bit over time.
I have spent too much time prising plant material off splintered timber trellis to want to take that route again - whereas a quick snip with wire cutters - sorted......and the whole horizontal support can be restrung with new (and cheap) wire.
Growth Response of Tomatoe Plants to Applied Sucrose
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
Thank you, Henry, for the above links, I find them very fascinating. I am always curious about the role of sugar in plant growth, much appreciated.