21,401 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

We usually have a good selection of striped roses, including those three, in our rose society rare rose auction, which is held in November every year. If you don't find them before then, please stop by our website www.ccrsauction.com in, say, August, which is when we usually figure out what we can sell for that year. Right now the information on the website mostly concerns last year's auction.
I also collect suggestions from whereever as to what people are looking for during the year, and I grow two of those three roses you mentioned (Camille and Alfred), so I'll try to get those started to give to the auction this time. Your timing in asking is just about perfect.
Thank you
Kathy

I got my Alfred Sisley at Roses Unlimited and it has done very well. Camille Pisarro is no longer available at Vintage and sadly won't be now that they are truly going out of business (buy what they do have, though to support them!). Edgar Degas isn't sold by anyone that I can find in the US now that Ashdown is out of business, but your best bet is to email Linda at Long Ago Roses because she has imported a lot of Delbard mother plants and is starting to offer them for sale as soon as she can.
Cynthia

Along with the lilies, Klaus Dalby likes allium sphaerocephalon (dark purplely red), angelica gigas (purple), a red old fashioned daylily (Crimson Pirate?), Dahlia "David Howard" (with purple foliage), crocosmia and astromera. Single apricot zinnias would also be nice.
Here is a link to a video from July 23 2011: http://youtu.be/xus9T0dB9c8
For earlier in the year I also like the orange foxglove (digitalis obscura?) -- I think I have one that I bought last year, which seems to be alive. In the nursery it was displayed next to a gorgeous bearded iris called Tiger Shark.

Technoduckling,
Personally, I wouldn't plant roses around lavender bushes.
Lavender at my home requires very little supplemental watering, it is totally care free.
Roses, on the other hand, in the hotest months of the year, really do require a nice amount of water, unlike Lavender.
Mabey you have a lavender plant I am unfamiliar with, so it likes water, idk.

Decades ago, I found it fascinating following the sports through the Camellia garden as they were listed on the tags. It honestly taught me what to watch for with mutations as you could trace the lines through the planting. It made for quite an enjoyable afternoon. Kim

We've had a snake slither up a porch railing and eat baby barn swallows nesting up under the eaves too.
One idea we use is to thread birdhouses onto 10 foot metal poles which are sunk into the flower beds to keep them away from squirrels. I don't think a snake could slither up, either.
There are so many trees here I think they're more decoration than useful birdhouses. In Alabama, though, the birds used them to nest in.
In this picture you can see the threading mechanism attaching the birdhouse onto the metal pole -






Either way works. What do you think happens to roots accidentally severed by shovels and underground critters? They get broken and damaged all the time. WE are the ones who are OCD about making sure anything damaged is removed, not Nature. If it's viable and not infected with a damaging pathogen, she simply has it continue doing its job. Kim

Dripworks helped me. I use 1/2 inch tubing run next to my pots then come ofc of it with 1/4 inch. I use bubblers in my pots or from lowes the mini sprinklers. Twice a day. One hour each time. My roses in pots were as tall as 10 foot tall (Mr Lincoln) and bloomed nonstop.

Thanks all! The ONLY kits available around here use only 1/4" tubing, which if I'm going to keep adding roses won't have enough capacity as a main line.
So ordered online a system with 1/2" mainline and 1/4" feed tubing. Should be all set. Thanks for the advice!

Hi everyone!
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I have never used it, but I do use a generic time release from my local fertilizer producer. As long as NPK is right for what you want to do, it should be fine. The product I use is much cheaper than Osmocote and works just as well.
This post was edited by floridarosez9 on Mon, Mar 4, 13 at 16:22

Annie---I've been on this form since the 1990's. First in Fl and now up here in N.GA. Yes, there are people on the form that can rub you the wrong way. Not everyone is a big fan of me. I just "snort" and ignore. Don't let anyone run you off. Post, reply, enjoy and sometimes ignore :)

Annie, Welcome to the Rose Forum.
There are lots of posters here like myself who did not read the exchange that hurt or offended some people--so we know nothing about it and are more than ready to take you at face value, starting right now! This is a public forum and anyone who likes to talk roses is more than welcome to participate. (Well, once in a while we get off into side issues, but mostly we talk roses.) I invite you to take some photos of your roses this summer and share them with us over on the Rose Gallery. Some of us really enjoy sharing rose pics and commenting on each others roses and gardens--and a clematis or daylily or iris has been known to sneak in there on occasion also--but mostly roses! Please do join us.
Kate

Also, Kitty, I bought some of those big flexible 2 handled bucket things at *gasp* Big Lots.
I keep fertilizer, tools, use them for collecting pruned pieces etc.
The one I have the roses in is likely 20 gallons.
Also, they sent their roses bundled together and it made it really easy to get them into water.
No tape and all that stuff like with bands. I hate that part.
Always cut myself.

The white fence will be reflecting light, not necessarily heat. A dark fence would be converting light to heat (as does an asphalt parking lot). Your fence would be acting more like a bank of snow, or a glacier... preventing heat buildup.
Anyway, why not try some of the new Hybrid Bracteatas? Rosa Bracteata is from the Philippines, and while there are few modern roses bred from it, most of them are extremely heat tolerant. I think there are several in the apricot/orange/amber color range you specified.

You have all given me suggestions of roses that when I look them up I just say OOOH!! I want that one too!
lol!
love love love the pictures and description of Crepuscule and googling Hybrid Bracteatas is like opening pandoras box!
thank you all for being so helpful!

"when i saw it had brand new shoots coming from the roots."
If the rose was grafted, new shoots coming from the roots would be from the root stock, which is different from the original, "scion" rose.
What you want is new shoots coming not from the roots, but from the "bud union", which is a round, knobby thing above the roots. This applies to grafted roses. Do you know if the rose was grafted? Most are, but some are not.
The root stock most commonly used is 'Dr Huey'. 'Dr Huey' blooms only on growth that is at least one year old. This may explain why you didn't get any flowers. If you wait a year or two and don't trim or cut back any of the rose as it is now, you may get some 'Dr. Huey' flowers eventually. 'Dr. Huey' blooms only in spring for a few weeks, not over the whole growing season, like 'Double Knock Out'.

I wonder if your roses have botrytis blight.
Here's a snippet from the University of Minnesota Extension
..... Botrytis Blight is caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea. The disease causes flower buds to droop and remain closed. Buds turn brown and decay. Sometimes partially opened buds are attacked, and an entire flower may be covered by gray fungus.
Symptoms: A smooth, slightly sunken, grayish-black lesion may develop just below the flower head. The bud is destroyed. It frequently hangs over at or near the lesion. The fungus may also infect stub ends of stems from which flowers have been cut.
Disease Cycle: Botrytis is a gray fungus that generally lives on dying tissue. With the right conditions, any dead plant tissue can release thousands of Botrytis spores. Botrytis infection occurs when water remains on leaves or buds.
Control: Cut and destroy all infected blossoms as soon as they droop or die. To prevent large numbers of fungal spores, remove dead plant material on which spores are produced. Fungicide application may be necessary. A preventive spray program can include chemicals listed in table 1
Here is a link that might be useful: U of M rose diseases


Curling leaves and bumps on the young leaves can be early-stage powdery mildew--at first the white stuff is not obvious.
Don't get too much powdery mildew here, but then anything is possible. Black spot, silvery leaf is common after monsoon and then theres the Thrips. We did get a couple of good rains about 2 wks ago and of course the weather has been real screwy. Got snow 3weeks ago and now the day temp is in the mid 70.
I will go ahead a spray for mildew just to be on the safe side. If you can think of any thing else please let me know. Thanks