21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

I had to look up "azole resistance" and "Aspergillus" to figure out what this post was about, so I guess I learned something!

    Bookmark   March 2, 2013 at 2:12AM
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rross(NSW Aust)

Sydney is zone 10 and very humid. I have a tantau rose, Old Fragrance, growing on its own roots and thriving. So far, it's endured steam bath conditions, prolonged drought and relentless rain with clean leaves and frequent flushes of big, fragrant flowers. It's the most reliable rose in my garden.

    Bookmark   March 1, 2013 at 7:47PM
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ken-n.ga.mts(7a/7b)

I grew roses in Central and S.E. FL. for 36ish years before retiring and moving to N.E. GA (late 2008). Grew a bunch of own root. Grew them in 15-20 gal. nursery pots. I found if you put the pots in the ground on a layer of pine bark mulch (nematodes hate the acid from the bark), you're own root roses will grow very well. Most OGR's, Tea's, a good hand full of HT's, florabunda's and shrub's do well own root. Almost all mini's and miniflora's do great own root. You have to do you're homework real good.

    Bookmark   March 1, 2013 at 9:43PM
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henry_kuska

O.K. I removed it, but if the link worked, the information would have been available so it is not private information.

This is the link that would not work on my computer:

http://www.uwrf.edu/FacultyStaff/1840024.cfm

Here is a link that might be useful: link for above

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 10:32PM
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trospero(8)

Posting personal contact info here is totally inappropriate; please don't.

    Bookmark   March 1, 2013 at 12:15PM
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lucillle

From the Cottage Forum:
Posted by sweetannie4u midOK_z6b/7a (My Page) on Tue, Feb 26, 13 at 20:20
"I got my head practically bit off over there for even suggesting that the newbies on that other forum might wish to come over here to our forum. Ridiculous, but oh well."

You know, you must have some big brass ones in order to tell a fib like that.

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 7:43PM
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TNY78(7a-East TN)

Oh my.....I wasn't trying to be snippy by saying I didn't remember asking for advice on perennials....I really don't think I did (**look of confusion**)...I even went back and looked at recent posts and couldn't find anything...maybe there's another Tammy, but I think I'm the only regular poster with my name??? I am a newbie I guess since I've only been on this forum for three years, and I do welcome any advice from more experienced gardeners, God knows I need all the advice I can get LOL!

Then again, I recently got scolded on another post for mispelling Rogue Valley "Rouge Valley" after not properly proofreading and was a little surprised at the harsh reaction :(

Oh well...I think Annie's whole original post may have come out sounding different than she actually meant it to. I really did enjoy her garden pics, but I agree with Jackie in that the rose forum people really don't seen to care what the topic is, and long as its informational and/or amusing :)

Tammy

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 9:19PM
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minflick(9b/7, Boulder Creek, CA)

HelpMeFind shows it to be on sale from:
Regan Nursery, California
Windmill Nursery, "
Rose Story Farm, "
Burkard, "
Armstrong, "

Look 'em up and call 'em up!

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 8:11PM
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sadie_pnw

The only idea I might add is that I use a rolling pin to squeeze out the water in the newspaper I used to wrap cuttings - that way the durability of the paper doesn't appear to be an issue. When I tried to manually squeeze with my hands, the newspaper tore or melted; I guess we have inferior newsprint in our local paper, lol.

I've been really excited about this method of doing winter rooting as relayed by Kim to all of us!

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 6:10PM
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roseseek

I'm glad, thanks Lyn! LOL! Gean, I've suggested the rolling pin idea before, thinking it would benefit anyone wanting to try this who had any kind of hand issues. Now, it seems paper quality is as much of an issue, probably for even more people. I'm glad it's working for you.

I'd expect those who live in colder climates to actually have better success with it as the roses appear to be more "dormant" than most around here have gone this year. At least, that's what it appears from the Santa Clarita Valley cuttings I took from my sister's about ten days ago. I know they'd experienced frosts a few times and haven't been fertilized at all as she doesn't have time to do it. Those things callused quite well in ten days on the guest bed where I've held all the others. I did notice the ones originating from my garden and a friend's in Torrance garden, took longer to callus when the outside temps were cooler, even with the house thermostat remaining constant. As the outside warmed, the local cuttings callused faster. The ones from my sister's where it's been colder, callused the fastest and were held when it was warmer outdoors. I wouldn't think it would have that much of an effect, but evidently warmer outside made it sufficiently warmer inside to make the difference. Light isn't an issue as the shutters remain closed in that room so none shone on the wraps.

I'm glad the method appears to be helping more people be able to propagate easily. I pass on the "thanks" to those who shared it with me! Kim

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 6:29PM
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opaka

I found this http://www.extension.iastate.edu/earthkind/winners-northern-earth-kind

Rather useless, I know. But maybe they'll update it soon?

Here is a link that might be useful: Northern Earthkind Roses

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 4:53PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

If you have had temperatures near zero, there may be some winter damage on the upper canes. This would show as exterior shrivelling or as brown center pith when you cut into it. Damaged wood should be removed along with twiggy growth on the inside of the plant. I wouldn't cut them way down.

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 1:44PM
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henry_kuska

If they were sold as potted plants, did you take precautions to spread the roots out. A potted root bound plant can be reluctant to spread its own roots.

Here is a link that might be useful: If your rose is

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 3:25PM
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cecily(7 VA)

While you're researching roses, you should also read up on blackspot, a fungal disease. In the mid-Atlantic area, BS (blackspot) is a serious issue. Some roses are BS resistant, most will require regular spraying with a fungicide to keep their leaves. Whether you are willing to spray every two weeks throughout the growing season will determine which roses you should plant. Just something to consider.

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 10:13AM
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seil zone 6b MI

Go to the American Rose Society web site and find a rose society or a Consulting Rosarian near you. That's the best place to start to find roses that will thrive in your area. These people have been growing roses for a long time and will know which ones do best in your climate. And they'll be more than happy to help you!

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 3:07PM
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opaka

Antique Rose Emporium knows their hot-weather roses. Look up some of their pioneer roses. They only do own-root though. (I grow only in pots, so nematodes are less of an issue for me) David Austin as some that are supposed to do well in the south, but I'm not sure if quite as far south as you are!

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 9:30AM
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dkent

I had a Jude the Obscure in a container last summer that received full afternoon sun. It came through the Dallas summer just fine, and bloomed well. The flowers, however, burned up the day they opened.

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 7:40AM
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dublinbay z6 (KS)

David Austin's site lists the roses that do best in hot sun (see the link below--scroll down on that page). I don't know if he hasn't gotten around to classifying his newer roses or not, but most of them are not on the list. Abe Darby is, however.

The only one that I grow on that list is Molineux and July and August here are often 100 degrees or higher, so I guess that might qualify as hot.

Molineux does fine through most of hot July as long as I don't forget to water it. However, a few weeks into August, and it tends to give up struggling against the heat and goes semi-dormant, waiting for the cooler autumn weather to return.

While some Austins get fried edges in the strong sun, others aren't that much affected--Molineux being one of them, although there have been occasional days when its blooms get wilted in the sun. Usually that means they need a drink.

By the way, I do not find that my Austins need noticeably more water than my other roses, but that may be because I don't grow GC which some claim is a waterhog. On the other hand, my Austins definitely do not like missing their watering when it gets that hot. so just water regularly.

That said, many Austins prefer some afternoon shade -- to look their best.

Kate

Here is a link that might be useful: Austins for hot weather

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 9:08AM
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rosetom(7 Atl)

I hate to say it, but fragrance seems to accompany disease susceptibility.

No one seemed to mention Fragrant Cloud - probably among the best stinkers around, it's a high-count double with exhibition quality. The lower petals reflex downward very much like Touch-Of-Class and other exhibition winners. It blooms constantly, is a fairly compact HT and more bushy in shape.

Of course, one of the finest roses ever bred is Double Delight - second only to Peace in historic popularity, it's a great stinker and the flowers are incomparable (except for Peace, perhaps). It's also fairly compact and available almost everywhere.

Both Fragrant Cloud and Double Delight are Gamble award winners for fragrance. Secret is too, but I have severe issues with thrips on mine. If that new fungus chemical from Rosemania works this coming season, I may change my mind on Secret. ;-)

You will probably have to spray any of these, though, to keep the BS off.

    Bookmark   February 27, 2013 at 10:41PM
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Brittie - La Porte, TX 9a

^ I was honestly a little stumped when trying to think of a very fragrant rose that was also long lasting around here. I have around 100 roses, so I honestly don't always notice whether or not single blooms stick around, as there are always others nearby. I agree too, that Austin roses turn into monsters here, as do a great deal of antiques. Pretty much count on sizes being at least double what they're reported to be in the catalogs.

Hybrid teas that I do like, and that do reasonably well during our heat are Pope John Paul II (white, very fragrant), Pink Peace (med. pink, very fragrant), Grande Dame (dk. pink, very fragrant), Gemini (pink/white bicolor, little fragrance), Veteran's Honor (red, lightly fragrant). I have several others that are new, so can't really comment on them.

I also like Hot Cocoa (russet, lightly scented), Koko Loco (lavender/tan, moderately scented), Archduke Charles (lt pink/fades? to dk pink, lightly scented), and Belinda's Dream (lt. pink, lightly scented). These will be larger and shrubbier than the hybrid teas.

    Bookmark   February 28, 2013 at 8:57AM
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Kippy(SoCal zone 10. Sunset Zone 24)

Camps, I think our down time is in the middle of summer when the veggies start frying, of course that is when the canning starts for all the fruit trees. I would love a couple of off months, but I would also hate the time spent prepping for snow, so I guess I like our seasons.

I have about 3/5s of the patio leveling first phase done. just have to finish the last section, move and level where the green house was, raise the Hoe House, move the fencing inward, build the benches, add the retaining wall (not in that order) build an arbor covered bench, plant, paint....YIKES

    Bookmark   February 13, 2013 at 9:41PM
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Kippy(SoCal zone 10. Sunset Zone 24)

Three weeks later....

The fruit trees did not get sprayed (yet) either about to rain or roast.

The retaining wall is mostly in.

Just a couple more loads of dirt needed

A bunch of more stepping stones needed too

Half the fence is moved-just one small gate needed and then the actual building part.

All the painting and then the built in benches etc.

But, a ton of dirt has been shoved up the hill and the Hoe House is in a new elevation.

And I am taking a break (oh ya and 3 of the rentals are done too)

The section of the fence to the left of the hoe house is where my SldM cl is going to have a small arbor/bench built. The two citrus trees will replace the jasmine as a hedge between us and the neighbors and the Mr Lincoln...well in there some where I think!

    Bookmark   February 27, 2013 at 11:49PM
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sadie_pnw

It's a wonderful class of roses; thanks for starting the topic!

    Bookmark   February 27, 2013 at 6:13PM
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Campanula UK Z8

HMs have always had my vote - along with wildlings, they are the most favoured and common class in my garden.

    Bookmark   February 27, 2013 at 6:29PM
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JohnnieG78

From my experience, Memorial Day has been the best black spot resistant rose I've ever had. It blooms constantly and I love it. Other roses I have had that have issues include:

Frau Karl Druschki - easy to take cuttings from, nice blooms but it does get BS very easily.
Peace - never had much luck with this and it really gets BS - can weaken a plant to death.
Double Delight - same as Peace.
Chrysler Imperial - Blooms and fights BS but drops leaves everywhere.
Mr. Lincoln - blooms and will drop every leaf that has BS.
Whisper - One of the worst roses I've ever tried to grow. nice blooms but BS will kill it.

    Bookmark   February 26, 2013 at 6:24PM
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the_morden_man((Z4-Z5) Ontario, Canada)

Golden Fairytale- No BS in 4 years now. Slight late season mildew in Sept./Oct. Almost always in bloom.

Eliza- No disease in 4 years now.

Grand Amore- slight affliction to BS in late season in 5 years now. No mildew.

La Perla- no disease in 2 years.

Beverly- above average disease resistance, but not perfect. Some mid to late season BS and late season mildew. Huge, long lasting and exceptionally fragrant blooms make it worth it regardless.

    Bookmark   February 27, 2013 at 2:56PM
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