22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Hi Patty
My Calypsos are at the front of a bed, since they were listed as no more than 3' tall. As you've mentioned, this one puts out some long shoots much more than 3'. Only one of my Calypsos has reached the 3 year mark, and it's looking to be 4' tall with some long gangly arms reaching out to the neighbors. I suspect that those 5-6' canes are wanting to stretch sideways rather than up, since this isn't a columnar type of upright growth. Calypso doesn't have remotely as long or aggressive canes as Sunrise Sunset which is 2' high and 12' wide in every direction. Still, I'd plan for some flopping room. I wouldn't put it at the large and wide flopping that Lion's Fairy Tale does in my yard, though. That one also coincidentally is in the front of a bed, and is only saved because it has a fence to drape over and trail along.
Glad you like the colors. I find mine vary a lot with the weather from pink to apricot to picotee to almost cream at times.
Cynthia
Thanks so much Cynthia it really helps a lot. Yes those six foot canes are floppy ones. Yet she has some upright ones as well. My favorite flowers from her are the apricot but she fades nicely. The foliage is gorgeous, now with your growth information I'm just going to leave it where its at. If there is enough sun for it.
I remember Caramella FT. she was a big one. I lost mine many years ago. Here at least she was healthy with lovely flowers.
Well my moving is still paying off. I went to move Easy Does It as it did not do well this year. Found root and crown gall so now instead of one more because I really like this rose. I know that I need two. Also since thats where Lady of Shallot was going to go I'll either leave where it is or find a new spot
I hate crown gall as once I find it you can't really plant a rose there again. Wonder if galltrol (sp) would clean the soil enough to plant again.
Cindy, I have never winter protected Red Intuition--although last winter was bad enough that it probably would have benefitted from some protection. There are enough oak leaves blowing through my gardens that I let them settle wherever they want--thus there is a little bit of haphazard leaf protection. I kind of wonder how damaged it got from this past winter--hasn't performed that well this year--keep my fingers crossed for
Edited to add: I just accept that my early spring pruning for all my HTs will often be down to 10 inches or less--sometimes just a few inches above the soil line. Just can't get myself motivated to do the work winter protection would require. My HTs usually are growing fine by May--which is the big display month in this area.
Kate
I would think the Austins would be fine in an unattached garage. Most are hardy to z5. The hybrid teas I might worry about, and the tea would be iffy. They night need a more protected area, or maybe a heater in the garage for the coldest nights. I've been known to use a utility heater set on low: LIKE THIS . Remember, HT and teas never really go dormant of their own free will. All will need occasional water.
If the door were never opened when the temps are below 20-25F, you'd probably be OK with the HTs.
As for the tea, at least, I've found the only SURE way to keep them alive in a pot is to drag them in and out depending on the weather, lol. All my teas, in ground or in pots, go into winter with new growth. So, for me, nights above 30F= outside; nights below 30F= inside. Never allow hard frost to touch it. The tea will need sunshine when it can get it, and sufficient water, but NEVER, EVER soggy. I'm assuming a lot here, such as the tea not being newly potted, and not pruned severely. If it is newly potted/pruned, that may force it into dormancy and you could leave it inside, just watching the soil moisture.
The single MOST IMPORTANT THING is to get them outside in the Spring as soon, and I mean AS SOON, as they show signs of making new growth. Otherwise you'll be amazed at how fast they'll put on spindly, white, useless growth that just saps stored nutrients. And yes, that means dragging them in and out to avoid late frosts :P Sorry...
Oh, and one more thing, the bigger the pot, the more likely they'll survive, but the harder it is to move them in and out, lol.
John
Since the yellowing leaves are on the bottom they're probably the oldest ones and the plant may just be shedding them because they're no longer needed. As the plant grows the upper leaves start to shade the lower ones so they're no longer producing food and become expendable.
If this pattern develops on the lower leaves, it is usually magnesium deficiency.
If so, lower the pH if it is alkaline and add epsom salts.
The pattern is not clear at this point.
Thanks everyone for your nice comments.
Kate, what Michael said about the colour of Granada is spot on. The colours of the photos on the screen are very close to what they look like in real life. I have lots of sun and I leave them on the bush until the flowers are half open so they are very bright.
Thank you Seil, I thought it was a pretty rose from the beginning, to me the blooms didn't look like what I was expecting though, every time it bloomed in 2013, I thought the blooms looked different than they should have, but knew they would mature in time, but it died so they didn't get that chance.
Mr. Lincoln was one of the first roses I bought. Planted him late last winter or early spring and he has been making us giggle for months with his determined verticality. Such beautiful fragrant flowers but next spring we'll move him to a more suitable location than the front of the flower bed. I hauled a step ladder out and took this picture after his last growth spurt. He was over 7'. That's my 7 year old below. 
Come to think of it you're right, my Big Momma didn't break dormancy either, but the canes eventually blackened down to the base, so I thought of it as a canker issue. Ditto for my Raspberry Cream Twirl too, so maybe it was indeed a problem with the grower for those roses. Nice to know it isn't just me. Also good to know that Silver Star isn't a strong grower for you so I don't feel too bad. Although just this year (on the third replacement) my Silver Star from Roses Unlimited seems to be doing OK and has overwintered. In my world, that is a success even if it doesn't bloom much.
"get going and get caught up so you can be classed as a Rose Nut too!!"
Ummm, have you seen my rose order for next year already? I haven't even started on the normal fall orders and I already have a huge bulk order from Heirloom and a large order from Palatine, plus some miscellaneous rose orders. Unless I get massive rose death over this winter (and I expect around 200 per year anyway), it might be the year I join the official Rose Nuts next year.
Cynthai
Beth, I received Gold Struck as a freebie when I attended a pruning class this spring at a local nursery. I put it in a very sunny spot, west-facing against a pale yellow wall, fed it, watered it -- and have been very disappointed. It's probably going to get scrapped.
Maybe three-four small blooms at most, all in March and April, and those were turned dirty-white and blew in a day or two. Nothing since -- I mean nothing. Very sensitive to sun and heat -- leaves brown easily. I'm in 10a/20, and I cannot recommend this rose.
There are cocoons in the upper inch of soil--you wash off the soil. There may be eggs and larvae in the tender growth and flower buds--you cut these off. That should do it.
I read once that creators of beautiful gardens are ruthless. Hope that helps.