22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Since the yellowing leaves are on the bottom they're probably the oldest ones and the plant may just be shedding them because they're no longer needed. As the plant grows the upper leaves start to shade the lower ones so they're no longer producing food and become expendable.
If this pattern develops on the lower leaves, it is usually magnesium deficiency.
If so, lower the pH if it is alkaline and add epsom salts.
The pattern is not clear at this point.
Thanks everyone for your nice comments.
Kate, what Michael said about the colour of Granada is spot on. The colours of the photos on the screen are very close to what they look like in real life. I have lots of sun and I leave them on the bush until the flowers are half open so they are very bright.
Thank you Seil, I thought it was a pretty rose from the beginning, to me the blooms didn't look like what I was expecting though, every time it bloomed in 2013, I thought the blooms looked different than they should have, but knew they would mature in time, but it died so they didn't get that chance.
Mr. Lincoln was one of the first roses I bought. Planted him late last winter or early spring and he has been making us giggle for months with his determined verticality. Such beautiful fragrant flowers but next spring we'll move him to a more suitable location than the front of the flower bed. I hauled a step ladder out and took this picture after his last growth spurt. He was over 7'. That's my 7 year old below. 
Come to think of it you're right, my Big Momma didn't break dormancy either, but the canes eventually blackened down to the base, so I thought of it as a canker issue. Ditto for my Raspberry Cream Twirl too, so maybe it was indeed a problem with the grower for those roses. Nice to know it isn't just me. Also good to know that Silver Star isn't a strong grower for you so I don't feel too bad. Although just this year (on the third replacement) my Silver Star from Roses Unlimited seems to be doing OK and has overwintered. In my world, that is a success even if it doesn't bloom much.
"get going and get caught up so you can be classed as a Rose Nut too!!"
Ummm, have you seen my rose order for next year already? I haven't even started on the normal fall orders and I already have a huge bulk order from Heirloom and a large order from Palatine, plus some miscellaneous rose orders. Unless I get massive rose death over this winter (and I expect around 200 per year anyway), it might be the year I join the official Rose Nuts next year.
Cynthai
Beth, I received Gold Struck as a freebie when I attended a pruning class this spring at a local nursery. I put it in a very sunny spot, west-facing against a pale yellow wall, fed it, watered it -- and have been very disappointed. It's probably going to get scrapped.
Maybe three-four small blooms at most, all in March and April, and those were turned dirty-white and blew in a day or two. Nothing since -- I mean nothing. Very sensitive to sun and heat -- leaves brown easily. I'm in 10a/20, and I cannot recommend this rose.
Sara-Ann - since you're in a cold zone, I thought I'd comment on hardiness, since I certainly can't improve on Beth's fantastic pictures. Moonshadow wasn't remotely hardy for me in two tries, though it might overwinter for you in zone 6 in a protected spot. Shi-Un didn't overwinter in a normal zone 5 spot, but did survive when I moved it into my zone 6 pocket, meaning you should be OK with this one. I also have Lady Rose in a full sun location for its first year, so I can't tell hardiness yet, but it is the most robust bloomer of the three by far in my yard.
Cynthia
So, here's what we need to make the best guesses:
1) Can you find out how long it has been growing there approx?
2) Where are you - West Coast, East Coast, US South?
3) If you can take a camera back there again and take pictures of: close up of leaves, hips if you can find any, flower buds, partly open flowers, and the ENTIRE BUSH.
Jackie
Most of the older HTs will never fit your requirements. Maybe some future ones will as breeders are working on things like better health and hardiness but those weren't necessarily requirements in the past. Bloom form, size and color were more important. Even fragrance got left by the wayside back when.
I have a lot of HTs because I do exhibit some. Some years they're hardy and some years they're not. Depends a lot on the severity of the winter but for the most part they need to be pruned deeply every spring because they are not cane hardy. And NONE of them would I call disease resistant.
If you want real hardiness and disease resistance then you'll need to look at other classes. Julia Child is one I highly recommend for both categories. It's also a beautiful yellow with a good fragrance that blooms all the time. A few others I like for both health and hardiness are:
Quietness
Love Song
Brilliant Pink Iceberg
Home Run
Those are the ones that come back faithfully every spring, bloom all the time and drop the fewest leaves in my garden.
I can't help with all your questions but I can say currently my Sweet Drift are blooming and my Peach drift are not blooming. The Peach bloom a lot less than the Sweet. The Sweet are also taller and wider than the Peach. I'm not losing leaves though and both appear very healthy but then I haven't had your rain. Considering the current height and width I don't expect to have to prune them at all come pruning time.
Your home looks lovely! Contact the local rose society in Atlanta, I know there is one, and ask them what might work better for you. They will know whether this is normal or not for your area.
For me I found that the flower carpet roses did better in my area than the drift roses. They stay short and I hardly ever see a spot on them.
Getting one thanks to your beautiful enabling. Judy
dan8 ,the fragrance is wonderful, a stand there and drink it in sweetness.