22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
nat, I pulled a bunch of similar looking leaves off of my roses this morning. The older leaves will get yucky at some point. That's why you deadhead and groom roses. The new growth will come in and look better. These are baby bands and you can't expect them to look perfect all the time.
Interesting! I thought for sure it was canker, but glad to hear it isn't. Regardless, I cut the cane to the crown because it was slowly spreading up & the leaves about the brown part were not looking like they should. Also the bud eye nearest the crown, under the brown, looked like a pimple - red & inflamed. It hurt to make the cut since there was a nice cluster of buds that would've looked gorgeous in about a week, but better to have lost something temporary than keep it & cause more damage!
I felt much better about it when my husband came home with "Above & Beyond," which he picked up at our local nursery today ;)
Nicole - it could well be canker for all I know - that word gets used pretty broadly for a lot of conditions. For me, it's enough to say the canes were damaged and the damage was spreading, and that's clearly enough to recommend trimming those off and sacrificing those lovely blooms. Enjoy your new baby and we'll expect "toddler" pictures in a year or so.
Cynthia
Ann - thanks so much for pointing us to your chapters! I've kept up with your postings on RRD faithfully to be able to recognize it when it would (inevitably) show up near me, but I didn't realize some of the first sitings were in Nebraska. I didn't know there was a cold breeding of roses in North Platte Nebraska, and Viehmeyer roses don't seem to have become commercial if they were successful. Perhaps RRD derailed the process for him. It's a shame that Morden was an early susceptible site too, given how important those roses have become for cold zone rose gardeners.
I appreciate the heads-up, and I'm doubly grateful that I've never seen anything of the sort show up in my garden or other roses I see around town. I appreciate the work you continually do to educate us all about this scourge, Ann.
Cynthia
Donnann, your bee balm garden was absolutely gorgeous! thank you so much for posting and am really looking forward to when it fully recovers, just like I hope the honeybees will someday come back to my Dad's garden... Sadly as Dr. Amrine says it can take a very long time for bees to return once they're gone... He says there are sections in Virginia in which there haven't been any honeybees for over 10 years... And I think that is why we should try not! to use insecticides like Sevin that are highly toxic to bees.
Iluvgardens, here is the link for everyone to watch that you provided... I am so glad you and my BF mentioned it to me so that I could watch online since I missed the show...
video on the disappearance of our bees
Again, the show and PBS' site urges everyone to consider trying to go pesticide-free...whereas my stance is try to stop Sevin... PBS says "And of course keep your bee garden free of pesticides a danger in any garden. Some pesticides can kill the bee before it returns to the hive; other pesticides get carried back and can harm the rest of the hive." Sevin is exactly! the kind of pesticide/"arsenic" that gets carried back to the hive. Even our own forumers inadvertently admitted that Sevin was the only thing to completely destroy the wasps and their hives----Likewise Sevin wipes out honeybees in THIS EXACT SAME WAY.!
Here is PBS' link which is called how you can help the bees
Again, I'm praying that everyone really reconsiders Sevin and its impact on our bees...If we just do this little thing, we can make a tremendous difference.
Serena
I just posted an inquiry about using Sevin for Jap Beetles and then I saw your post. I'm so sorry to hear your inadvertent loss of your Dad's bee population. I won't even spray the Carpenter Bees when they're feeding on the bee balm. Your loss and post will benefit many others from making the same mistake. I've been spraying a little Raid when the beetles are devouring my roses. But, will need to re-think my JB treatment for next year.
I have been so blessed this year with butterflies (mostly swallowtails) in my newly estabilshed garden. It's magical to walk outside and you're just surrounded by the butterflies everywhere. I've got buttonbush blooming by the large pond and the butterflies are in heaven. In the front I have mostly echinachea and a couple of butterfly bushes.
So the moral of the story is to attract lots of birds.
Thanks for your post.
Donna in Fredericksburg, VA
Hi, Diane! here's the first thing on Internet when I search for "badger damage prevention" http://www.downgardenservices.org.uk/badgers.htm However, as you can see if this address works as a link (if not, hopefully you can "cut and paste" to view it),this is the European badger, Meles meles that I would be dealing with. Dingo2001,I did see a battery-operated device, but fear that the cost would end up being excessive:since the area to be protected is so large,I would need several,and there's no guarentte that they'd even work. The aa sulphate stuff cost me 30 euros , shipping included,so if it proves useless, it's not a huge loss. Thanks for the tip, vasue!
The best time for really severe pruning is at the end of winter. If you try that now, the bugs or bunnies may get all the new growth, and kill the plant. In my experience, roses regenerate just fine if you take out one or two of the oldest canes, and let the plant replace them with new ones. If it gets too close to winter, the new growth will be very tender, and won't survive winter unless carefully protected. I have protected new growth successfully by burying basal breaks in lots of soil.
The garage will be painted a deep charcoal gray so I can get away with almost any color really...I will def go for the trellis' to accommodate the climbers id center under window and let go up and around. I love all the roses that have been mentioned but I cant seem to find any for sale online they're all sold out??
Nessdizzle,
I'm new to roses, too! Last summer I got the itch to have my home be covered in roses & the below pictures are where I'm at now!
Below is William Baffin, a hardy, vigorous climber that would do well in zone 5 & easily cover that wall (mine is against a west facing wall). This pic was taken this spring, during its first flush:
Next I got Ramblin' Red (planted this spring), which I have on my south-facing garage wall. Hardy to zone 3 & supposedly cane hardy, as well. He really seems to love the heat & all day sun. This pic I just took today - it's the beginning of its second flush of the season:
The below pic is of the diy trellis I whipped up in a snap. I didn't want to spend the $ on a trellis & couldn't find one I liked anyway. I wanted the blooms to be the focal point, not the trellis, and hopefully when William is more mature, the trellis won't be visible. Also, I took this pic before trellis was secured underground, but you get the idea!
This is one section of the trellis, I have more pieces like it that I can add on as it grows.
I fell in love with Eden but don't have a spot for her just yet. The color & form of her blooms are gorg.
Also, what I've found from lots of online research is some climbers might have a hard time on southern exposure wall with radiant heat, especially against a dark background. Ramblin' Red & Baffin have been just fine so far, though.
My husband brought home Above & Beyond today, which is an apricot colored climber cane hardy to zone 4 (supposedly). Can't tell you much more about it, though, obviously. ;)
I've also been checking varieties online lately & most are sold out since it's not really "rose planting season." Most are shipped bare root while they're dormant & are planted in early spring & fall. If you can find a nursery that ships banded pots, you can plant (almost) anytime during summer. :)
Nic
Good to hear it's not just me, Susan! At least we can make it survive. Summer - I totally appreciate another zone pusher, it's just good to know who needs pampering ahead of time. For what it's worth, I don't find that the following roses you list take any special care in my zone 5 - they're not cane hardy but they've survived and regrown well in spring: Mme. Caroline Testout cl, Excellenz von Schubert (can be cane hardy) and Perle d'Or. I had Sombreuil but it wasn't robust, and it probably would have preferred a little more pampering.
Cynthia
I don't associate that chevron pattern of browning seen on the lower leaves with either overwatering or over-fertilizing. Mechanically, it reflects damage to the central vein at the point of the V--possibly caused by insects or cercospora fungus. Did you notice, a couple of months ago, spots on the lower leaves like this?
http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/newsletter/2010/more/rose_spot.shtml
(Roses like 'Belinda's Dream' that are susceptible to cercospora will develop the chevron pattern after some weeks.)
Or did the damage on the lower leaves begin with yellow tips like those we see in the upper leaves now? I am not sure these are stages of the same thing.
Sometimes spray damage causes burnt leaf tips because spray concentrates at the lowest part of a leaflet, the drip point. Have you sprayed anything on this rose?
michaleg, I think you may have diagnosed what's wrong with my Belinda's Dream. Sorry, I don't mean to hijack this thread but I've been wondering endlessly why it has these strange, half dead-looking leaves. For pinkpearls and me both, what can be done about this problem?
Dripworks is old problematic technology. In-line drip is the only way to go. Much less problems and maintenance issues. Much better distribution of the water in the soil. There's a product called Netafim that was developed in Israel. Toro and Rainbird also have a version. The Rainbird version has better adapters. Forget HD on this one. Go to your professional irrigation store to do it right. Your investment will pay off easily.
I have been using DripWork systems for 20 years in both my own and client gardens. I use a variety of in-line drip, sprays and individual emitters. Drip works has a good variety of in-line drips in both 1/2 and 1/4 in lines, with various spacing. I keep a tool box of spare parts so I don't have to run to the store/order all the time. I haven't kept up with newer systems because I'm retired now, so it's just my system. I currently have 450 roses plus other plants on drip. Here are a few tips:
You can pull 300 gallons on one line--ie, 300 1-gal emitters, 600 1/2 gal emitters, however many in-line emitters--whatever combination.
Be sure it is a closed system, ie, that it loops back onto itself so the water continuously circulates. If it is just one long line, you will lose pressure at the end of the line.
Orbit makes the best automatic, battery-operated best timers; they come in a variety of sizes. But I also use the cheap wind up timers for a couple of beds and I always keep one on hand in case something goes wrong with an automatic timer.
Sparkel n Shine maybe? It looks like mine.