22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Good to hear it's not just me, Susan! At least we can make it survive. Summer - I totally appreciate another zone pusher, it's just good to know who needs pampering ahead of time. For what it's worth, I don't find that the following roses you list take any special care in my zone 5 - they're not cane hardy but they've survived and regrown well in spring: Mme. Caroline Testout cl, Excellenz von Schubert (can be cane hardy) and Perle d'Or. I had Sombreuil but it wasn't robust, and it probably would have preferred a little more pampering.
Cynthia
I don't associate that chevron pattern of browning seen on the lower leaves with either overwatering or over-fertilizing. Mechanically, it reflects damage to the central vein at the point of the V--possibly caused by insects or cercospora fungus. Did you notice, a couple of months ago, spots on the lower leaves like this?
http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/newsletter/2010/more/rose_spot.shtml
(Roses like 'Belinda's Dream' that are susceptible to cercospora will develop the chevron pattern after some weeks.)
Or did the damage on the lower leaves begin with yellow tips like those we see in the upper leaves now? I am not sure these are stages of the same thing.
Sometimes spray damage causes burnt leaf tips because spray concentrates at the lowest part of a leaflet, the drip point. Have you sprayed anything on this rose?
michaleg, I think you may have diagnosed what's wrong with my Belinda's Dream. Sorry, I don't mean to hijack this thread but I've been wondering endlessly why it has these strange, half dead-looking leaves. For pinkpearls and me both, what can be done about this problem?
Dripworks is old problematic technology. In-line drip is the only way to go. Much less problems and maintenance issues. Much better distribution of the water in the soil. There's a product called Netafim that was developed in Israel. Toro and Rainbird also have a version. The Rainbird version has better adapters. Forget HD on this one. Go to your professional irrigation store to do it right. Your investment will pay off easily.
I have been using DripWork systems for 20 years in both my own and client gardens. I use a variety of in-line drip, sprays and individual emitters. Drip works has a good variety of in-line drips in both 1/2 and 1/4 in lines, with various spacing. I keep a tool box of spare parts so I don't have to run to the store/order all the time. I haven't kept up with newer systems because I'm retired now, so it's just my system. I currently have 450 roses plus other plants on drip. Here are a few tips:
You can pull 300 gallons on one line--ie, 300 1-gal emitters, 600 1/2 gal emitters, however many in-line emitters--whatever combination.
Be sure it is a closed system, ie, that it loops back onto itself so the water continuously circulates. If it is just one long line, you will lose pressure at the end of the line.
Orbit makes the best automatic, battery-operated best timers; they come in a variety of sizes. But I also use the cheap wind up timers for a couple of beds and I always keep one on hand in case something goes wrong with an automatic timer.
I guess they are factoring the cost of not just the rose, but paying someone to plant them and probably the cost of adding amendments to the soil as well. I think they feel like they cannot be without roses so they'd rather replace them. But there has to be some sort of variety that is perhaps resistant? Replacing them with the same varieties seems futile.
Canina hasn't really been used as a root stock in the uk for a long time. It is possible that it was rootstock, one of the gardens down the road from me has standard roses on a thorny rootstock, (I can tell because I wince at the suckers everytime I walk past the house!) but more likely it's a birdsown wildling - I have one growing up through a rhododendron, and I like the effect, so it stays.
Given that you say it's got ambitions to colonise the path already, I suspect that might be a checkmark in the remove column, given the increased light, food, water that comes with you actively tending the garden, it's likely to get more and more octopus-y as time goes on.
I hope to fill my rose garden with highly fragrant roses. I have several rose bushes, but my fragrant ones are Intrigue, Tiffany, Double Delight, Dark Desire, Abe Darby, Blue For You, Sheila's Prfume, and Fragrant Cloud all of which I love. But the two that I love the most in smell alone is Sharifa Asma and Quiteness. Both of these are also beautiful, but I can't get enough of the smell. I can just stand in the garden and feel intoxicated. They are wonderful. However, SA isn't doing so well, as some kind of root mats is over taking it. I hope to find another.
I bought most of my roses (before Cool Roses had their sale) either online, or as a bare root plant from a box store. In my stupidity I didn't realize that all roses didn't smell the same. I thought a rose had a rose fragrance. But the day that I opened up my shipment from Chamblee's and Sharifa Asma had a tiny little bloom that engulfed the entire room.... I said I need to be paying more attention to the fragrance. I was so happy to find Cool Roses so that now I can get a 'whiff' before I purchase. I think it is imperative because I had my eye on a couple that I thought I would love only to find out that I didn't like how they smelled. Just like some people don't like the Myrrh scent I found out that I abhor the Tea scent.
Now I need to figure out what Damask smells like.
I agree with all the previous comments, and while you can prune to encourage a rose to bush out more, yours already look fairly nicely branched on the lower canes. Ch-ching does have that tall cane sprouting out, but it looks like they really want to bloom on higher bushes in your zone than the 3' you're targeting. Most hybrid teas prefer to bloom at 4-5' in warmer zones, and pruning them lower might get bushier branches but not necessarily blooms that stay at those heights. However, it's worth a try since you couldn't move them in California till winter months anyway. Just remember that wherever you prune a cane is where it STARTS to bush out from, so don't expect it to stay at the pruned height. In fact, pruning right at 3' would probably have it forming a "candelabra" effect from that 3' height and have an even bigger clump of canes shooting up to its preferred height.
Cynthia
I've had that rose for quite a few years ... just this year it's doing all these different flowers I've never seen before...I shouldn't be so surprised about the plsnts in my yard anymore... I own my late grandmother's house which has been in the family since it was built in 1950's. I've seen many odd plants over the years. Including my heirloom naturally cross bred pink and yellow 4 o'clock seeds. :) 
For me spray painting was a disaster. Even the paint that says it is for plastic scrapes off. I spray painted some pots last year and they look terrible. Every time something bumps up against them they scratch. I'm threatening to take sandpaper to them and get the paint all off.
Pictures, please. If none available, then we need many more details on the condition of the plants, including color of the leaves and stems, and how you have been fertilizing and watering. Also, are these plants in the ground or in pots? Do you know the names of the varieties or can you describe the blooms? How long have they been planted?
"...extremely neglected" is the key. In very hot weather, deep watering is critical for rose survival.
The rose is capable of producing new shoots directly from the graft swelling or bud union.
There needs to be a bud eye below the cut or the pruned cane will not be able to grow. Usually the first eye is a few inches above the graft. It is a pimple with a ridge underneath curved like a smile, where a leaf stem used to be attached.. If there is no bud eye on a cane, you can just take it down to near the graft.
If you cut some too close to the bud and the cane is damaged or bruise, it will just grow from the next closest bud (just below). You may get a little die back from the ends, but you can cut those off later. You should just leave it for now. If you keep pruning them back in order to get perfect cuts, you'll just be making it harder for them to bounce back.
Just let them be and they'll keep growing. Michael is right, they are tougher than we think. Much tougher than most plants actually.
I am Christopher's Facebook friend. I planted a bare root Albrighton Rambler in (I think) January of this year. Considering its youth, it has already produced quite a few flower clusters. The longest canes as of July are about 7 feet long. It looks totally healthy, in spite of the fact that I've never sprayed it, and I live in a moist, coastal climate. The flowers are small, but packed with petals - kind of reminds me of a miniature version of Souvenir de la Malmaison. No fragrance, to speak of. I'm hoping that it will get a little bigger than the 12' prediction in the catalog because I want to train it along the base of an upstairs balcony. The color is not very dazzling - starts out as a kind of washed out pinkish buff color, and matures to light pink. I am pleased with it so far, but I will have a better evaluation in a couple of years.
The garage will be painted a deep charcoal gray so I can get away with almost any color really...I will def go for the trellis' to accommodate the climbers id center under window and let go up and around. I love all the roses that have been mentioned but I cant seem to find any for sale online they're all sold out??
Nessdizzle,
I'm new to roses, too! Last summer I got the itch to have my home be covered in roses & the below pictures are where I'm at now!
Below is William Baffin, a hardy, vigorous climber that would do well in zone 5 & easily cover that wall (mine is against a west facing wall). This pic was taken this spring, during its first flush:
Next I got Ramblin' Red (planted this spring), which I have on my south-facing garage wall. Hardy to zone 3 & supposedly cane hardy, as well. He really seems to love the heat & all day sun. This pic I just took today - it's the beginning of its second flush of the season:
The below pic is of the diy trellis I whipped up in a snap. I didn't want to spend the $ on a trellis & couldn't find one I liked anyway. I wanted the blooms to be the focal point, not the trellis, and hopefully when William is more mature, the trellis won't be visible. Also, I took this pic before trellis was secured underground, but you get the idea!
This is one section of the trellis, I have more pieces like it that I can add on as it grows.
I fell in love with Eden but don't have a spot for her just yet. The color & form of her blooms are gorg.
Also, what I've found from lots of online research is some climbers might have a hard time on southern exposure wall with radiant heat, especially against a dark background. Ramblin' Red & Baffin have been just fine so far, though.
My husband brought home Above & Beyond today, which is an apricot colored climber cane hardy to zone 4 (supposedly). Can't tell you much more about it, though, obviously. ;)
I've also been checking varieties online lately & most are sold out since it's not really "rose planting season." Most are shipped bare root while they're dormant & are planted in early spring & fall. If you can find a nursery that ships banded pots, you can plant (almost) anytime during summer. :)
Nic