22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Yup, what Seil said, since watering will be your main issue. Here in NJ, I lose anything I don't plant into the ground before winter, so I'd choose to plant it. If your bed is going to be too dry, then potting it may be a better choice.
I planted a Disneyland this spring too, can't wait til it flowers!
Oh, Gary, the $64,000.00 question! I've seen Paul Zimmerman's video and he uses two shovels to pick up the ball and move it but he takes a rather small root ball in my opinion. I just try to pick it up as best I can and put it either on a tarp or in a wheel barrow to make the move.
I'll use the two-shovel method.
When I'm replanting the roses in their new locations, should the bud unions be above, below or at the soil level? (The bud unions of some of the roses were below the soil level when I dug them out of the ground and some of the roses have growth from the Dr. Huey rootstocks).
Michaelg, I don't think there's a swelling at the base of this twinned base -- if there is, it's to the left, where there's a wide place. There is new growth from this base.
Are you suggesting severe pruning?
It rebloomed, but If I were to replace it, I'd prefer fulltime blooming.
Alt-replacement idea: Deep red. American wisteria is on the other side of that arbor.
I hesitate to say a hard pruning because I killed my Dublin Bay that way. I blew up your photo and I do see some growth here and there up the canes. I would suggest you start at the tips and clip off a piece looking for a good clear and moist greenish white center and work you way down removing only the wood that isn't healthy. Then wait a bit. It hasn't really been all that warm for very long and it might just need some extended warmth to kick start it. We have just come out of two successive bad winters and a lot of roses are sort of in shock I think.
If you feel you need to spray with a miticide, try something with the active ingredient abamectin. There are other miticides on the market, some are specialized so you need to know for sure which mite you're spraying against. Not all are advisable for roses due to the potential for tissue damage. Spray in the evening twice with 10-14 days between applications (or follow the label). If temps do not regularly exceed 83F you can mix that with light summer horticultural oil in the first application. Oil will destroy the eggs. Spray on the canes also. Always do a test spray to make sure you have no tissue damage.
It has no fragrance to me whereas the normal orange blooms have a slight fragrance. It is very pretty though and I'd love to have a full bush of it. If I take a cutting of the stem and by a miracle I can get it to root will it root as this rose or just as the original color?
I would mark the cane with a ribbon and see what it does in the next flush. Some sports are stable, while others revert back quickly. If it is a stable sport, that whole stem back to the mother cane and out to future growth will produce the new flower..
Most roses are hard to root unless you have experience and the right equipment, so there is danger of wasting it. I would entrust the cuttings to an expert, or better yet, someone who us skilled at bud grafting. If it is a stable sport, you need to act before winter. Contact your local ARS chapter to learn who is the best propagator around.