22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I read that when I see the flowers start to droop I've waited 1 day too long to water...the flowers are def not drooping at all yet...the second bush in pictures seems to be doing worse than first bush, it also has a bit of shade from a tree like I mentioned in the late morning idk if that could be why...there are some dry crunchy leaves on the bush as well
A little layer of compost will help your roses get through. You are doing good. Every thing is OK. The rose you are growing is a newer rose. Some of the nurseries where we live sell roses that dont work well in the Northeast. It is good to find a local nursery who selects plants that will work. I like the David Austin rose Alnwick Castle. If you search some posts on the roses forum , you can find some folks that have a rose they grow that has a good track record of growing in your area.
Yes, they will. You forget about the minor detail known as the January thaw. After the temperatures are consistently freezing, they then become consistently above freezing for a while. And when the temperatures go above freezing, all the nice snow cover melts, and you end up with a slimy mess of winter protection. Which is why it isn't the world's brightest idea in a lot of places. The only winter protection I'm convinced really works here is a garage which involves a roof to keep the wet out.
There are a *lot* of roses that are commonly listed as 'hardy' that cannot look -10F in the face without breaking out in tears and running for cover. Alchemist is one that I didn't think I could grow. Then I tried it and found out I was right the first time.
Sidos-house, from what I read the rose replant disease is mainly something gardeners in England and Europe keep an eye out for. They may have to switch out the soil, but I don't think we have anything of the sort in the US, so I wouldn't worry about it at all. Adding a few nutrients like manure or compost to the soil can be a good thing - I throw in a handful or so of alfalfa hay for a quick start - but really finding winter hardy roses is a matter of experimenting what does well for you in your yard. Many zone 7 HTs do fine in my particular zone 5, and some roses rated to zone 5 and below have shrunk away in disgust at me over the winter. Anything that wants acid soil, for instance, hasn't got a chance in my yard whatever it is supposedly rated.
Cynthia
Please read this thread before jumping to conclusions regarding Knock Out roses and rose rosette disease (RRD). Remove knockouts to reduce risk of RRD?
We know that the mite that is the host for the disease travels on the wind, and they are more likely to land on large plants, which Knock Out can be. It is also possible that the landscaped plants were affected by the use of herbicides (glyphosate) near (or on) the plants, which results in symptoms that look similar to the effects of RRD.
Here is a list I found on roses that are good for the pacific northwest area. I am in an opposite growing zone from you. Hot and steamy summers and cool dry winters.
Hopefully someone from your specific area can comment on the roses on the list or which ones do best for them. This nursery is in Oregon so they might know what they are talking about LOL.
http://www.heirloomroses.com/info/care/roses/best-roses-for-the-pacific-northwest/
I am also adding a link to roses that are grown in the Olympia Rose Society 's Centennial Rose Garden. If you look under the different classes of roses they will list varieties.
http://pnwdistr.ipower.com/Articles/centennialgarden.htm
Wow--wonder who is the "hottest pink"--your Electron or my Peter Mayle? I didn't think any rose could beat Peter. Kind fun having that in your face color provide punctuation points periodically in the garden, isn't it.
Very interesting photo--quite creative.
Kate
Hi Kate and Dan, Edmund's Roses sent me my Electron. I have never had an opportunity to see Peter Mayle, Kate. Sure would like to. Still no sweet scent for my Electron, but much pinker than my Perfume Delight. Thanks for the kind comments.
Thanks everyone for helpful information. I stopped watering the plant. Can it survive? I notice the top sprouts of the green cane turned brown but leaves are still green. I am worrying I am going to lose it soon. I admit the pots are not big enough for roses, but I don't have a house now. I love roses and thought I could gain some experience from growing roses in pots. I will put them down to the ground once I get a house if they're still alive.
All the new growth, or just some of it? If the latter, check to see if the bad shoots all stem from the same basal cane, which has something wrong near the base.
If the whole plant is collapsing, voles may have eaten the roots. Rock the plant to check anchorage and probe for voids in the soil.
Then there are a few wilt or blight diseases that are uncommon but quite destructive. These would need to be ID'd by a plant pathology lab. I don't know if NYC residents have access to the NY agricultural / cooperative extension service. Check the county listings.
Glad to know that you're finally managing your sawfly infestation. Roses are beautiful plants, and it's a shame to see them get destroyed by pests. They seem to love the flavor of rose leaves for some reason. Just keep up with your pest control measures, do companion planting, and always do regular inspection so that you can control your sawfly problem. Good luck!
Use spinosad for relatively 'mild' treatment of lepidoptera, hymenoptera and thysanoptera. Spray in the evening after bees and flying predators have gone to bed. Spinosad WILL harm bees if it is sprayed when they are active but is relatively harmless when it dries up. For lepidoptera larvae Bt var. kurstaki may be preferable unless the particular insect has developed resistance to it. Regularly using wide range kill-all pesticides like carbamates (e.g Sevin) or organophosphates is not a good idea either for one's health or for long term pest management.