22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Cut it down as low as you can and then smother it with cardboard. I killed "pricker bushes", poison ivy, grass and assorted weeds this way when we put in our gravel paths. Cover it with mulch to hide it then take it up when the grass is dead, probably in about 6 weeks or leave it if you won't be planting anything in the space. I've also used bleach which will kill anything including poison ivy and pricker bushes. Just try to keep it off the roses. If you accidentally spray them just wet them down with water to dilute the bleach. But the cardboard obviously is the most environmentally friendly and will work well as long as you're patient.
Sharon
Crabgrass is an annual and will begin to die off soon. You just want to keep the seeds from coming up and repopulating the soil for next year. So just pull out the seed heads. The crabgrass will be easy to pull out (when it starts to turn reddish). Wait for a day after it rains and it should be very easy to pull up. However, the seeds that caused this outbreak can cause crabgrass to come up for years. So you will need to apply a pre-emergent next year or pull up the crab grass as soon as you see it sprout.
Cut everything that's black off being sure to go about 1/4 of an inch below it, well into nice green bark, but don't sacrifice side shoots that are green, just cut it as close as possible to the side shoot. (A side shoot is a branch that shoots out of the main branch.) Then just leave it. It looks like you're doing a good job. It definitely looks better than how you received it. But the dead wood can actually travel down the branch (like gangrene) so you want to cut it off. But don't go too crazy, because the plant is recovering, you want to leave as much cane as possible but try to stop the dead wood (aka dieback) from spreading. Then give it a nice dose of liquid fertilizer at half the recommended dose. This should get it back on its feet.
Once you see new growth you can start fertilizing regularly according to the directions on the liquid fertilizer.
Beth, that is so funny. Wow, $15 X 30, I hate to think how much that would be. I'm sure your husband was relieved to find out you only bought three. When you think how much store bought cut roses are, a rose plant is a real bargain for how many blooms they give us. Hope you enjoy them.
Article on controlling nematodes in potted plants
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/kill-nematodes-houseplants-25731.html
If you dig the rose up and the roots do not have knots on them, then you should be ok. If you have knots on them you may need to cut them off. Once you go to put them in a new pot you will need to make sure that it has plenty of organic material in it. Nematodes hate the organic stuff. They prefer sand..... So when you originally planted the roses if you had put in lotss of good organics you may not have nematodes. Make sure when you have them in the pots that the pot does not touch the ground. It needs to be raised because the nematodes can travel from the ground to the pot which will defeat your purpose.
On another note, I just posted that I am having a couple of my roses decline because I have this mat that is growing and choking out the roses. I really don't know what it is and haven't gotten any answers as of yet. Someone wanted me to post a picture, but I do not have a way to do that. I haven't seen anything like it before. It looks almost like roots but they are very very dense and not actually attached to any plant. I know that this mat thing was not there when I planted the rose there last fall. This mat thing is very aggressive. I think I am going to have to remove the bush in order to dig the mat out.
Good Luck on your roses.
THIS is 'Dr. Huey.'
He is a very vigorous once-blooming rambler of impressive proportions.
In his spring bloom, he will cover himself with an extraordinary mass of dark red flowers, centered by bright golden stamens.
Unfortunately, the deep red fairly quickly grows a bit muddy, as the blooms age. When they are gone -- you will see no more for the rest of the year. That is the time to prune him.
The bad news is that the good Doctor, once his spring bloom is done, rapidly settles down to rust, mildew, and blackspot to an unpleasant degree.
It depends on what you want and like. He can put on that spectacular display in the spring but only on last years, one year old, wood. So what you're seeing come up now will not bloom until next spring IF all those canes survive the winter. If he dies back to the ground over the winter and then starts to grow back in the spring he won't bloom again until the following year. 
He can be quite pretty during bloom but afterwards, as Jeri said, he's a spot magnet.
Please cut out all that brown stuff--we are tired of looking at it, if you arent'. OK--so brutal surgery is required. Well , then, do it!
Now, with the left-over healthy stuff, water deeply, and then water regularly in the future. You don't want the rose to dry out.
I agree with Pat--probably your roses suffered more winter damage than you realized or you were too timid with your pruning in the springtime. Trying to "save" weak or questionable canes is not a good idea. Prune back anything that doesnt' look healthy. Yes--that sometimes means pruning back nearly to the ground--if there was a lot a winter damage. If that were done early in the spring, the rose would jump back with spring growth and there would be no problems now in the summer heat.
Canker is a rose disease--looks like dark splotches on the canes. Always cut below the canker spots.
Good luck.
Kate
I have pruned the brown dead areas which are dry inside but not hollow, believe me I was tired of looking at the brown areas as well Kate. I am watering regularly and have planted one rose bush in a pot in the shade after pruning it back. The roots on the rose bush still looked healthy. The only dark spots on the stems were the brown thorns which I assume were because of lack of water and/or nutrients.
Is it possible that your Sugar Moon has produced a sport which is not unlike the 'viridiflora' arising from one of the China roses 'Old Blush'? Not all sports have to be pretty. If you cut the weird flowers off and the new shoots from that stem produced the same flowers again it is likely a sport.
We see this in a lot of roses during extreme heat or when the temperatures fluctuate from one extreme to the other. The buds open before they are fully developed so they tend to have a greenish hue and are deformed. Your rose should be fine once temperatures drop again. Also, sucker growth will come from below the soil level and the leaves will be more narrow than the standard rose leaves as Weeks uses Dr Huey rootstock. Sometimes roses will shoot up long reaching canes like the ones you have looking for more sunlight, but they aren't necessarily sucker growth. It looks like you have a very healthy rose that is just a little stressed in the heat!
My worry is that Crepuscule will look too different from the two other roses. Pinky and Renae are pink and single or almost single (my Pinkie had thorns, by the way) while Crepuscule is a glowing gold-apricot, and the flowers are larger and with more petals. If you decide to use it I would put it in the middle so that the odd man out is flanked by the two more similar-looking roses. Just a thought; the color and shape difference may not matter to you.
Sorry for the delay in answering- I've been having several computer issues.
I wasn't that impressed with the first flowers from Pinkie, but they have been improving- the first ones were tiny and a bit blah looking, but the later ones have gone semi double and while not large, are really kind of cute and ribbon like. I wouldn't say its entirely thornless, but so far they're not that bad..more prickles than thorns; (just went and re checked mine) you might snag a few jackets tho.
I certainly hope it stays that way, as its supposed to eventually wind around the entry to the front verandah. Health seems good- very little if any blackspot... it's not that vigorous so far, but as I mentioned, its not in a good spot. Smell wise, nothing so far but there are quite a few rose fragrances I don't seem to get very well. Crepuscule is supposed to smell rather nice, but I cant seem to pick that one up either :)
I do nothing, and the bugs and birds come to eat them. If I'm cutting blooms for a vase, I'll hose off what I've cut, but that's about it.
Here's a pic from May showing one member of my aphid-eating crew.
If you keep blasting away the aphids, there won't be enough left to be discovered as a food source by the things that eat them. It's sorta like throwing bird seed out on the ground -- one or two seeds will go unnoticed, but a handful will be spotted.
:-)
~Christopher
if you have ants, they help the aphids stay and also chase off anything that wants to eat the aphids. Aphids will always be a problem when there are ants around. Once the aphids are under control, plant society garlic to drive them off and discourage new ones and also plant small nectar flowers like alyssum to give ladybugs a place to stay while they snack on the aphids.
Antique Rose Emporium is the one I order from. I love them. They ship in the fall. Chamblees sells smaller plants, but very durable ones. You could drive to Tyler easily for CHamblees and get larger plants than the ones they sell to ship. I think Texas is a great place to live for rose nurseries.
Sammy
Just a caution, fall planting is risky for those in the colder zones. Small own root plants should be planted in late spring to give them a chance to gain strength before damaging cold sets in. Grafted plants are best planted in early spring and covered up. (I realize this is not an issue for the OP.)