22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I wish they had tested the asymptomatic Lafter for the virus...just saying.
Sounds like there's a source for the virus and vector mites fairly close to the garden...should be an interesting test. Similar tests (same plants) are being conducted elsewhere from what I've read.
Funny I always see the pets before the plants, Beautiful kitty was my first thought as well. All the easy elegance you mentioned will be upright after this year except SS. Don't know your zone but many of my EE's do die to the ground in winter here depending on how harsh the winter is. They bounce back nicely for the next year thou.
I'm trying an experiment with a new Sunrise Sunset. Since all of my original SS's always kept their canes off the ground. I was wondering if the difference could be fertilizer. My soil is much improved over what it once was and can't change that. But it is not going to receive any extras. No seaweed sprays, alfalfa meal, cotton seed meal, leaves, nitrogen ect ect ect. To see if she may grow more upright than they do now. Even before the extra care they were always covered in bloom. I believe perhaps more than they are now. Since we have had nearly zero sun this season the truer test will be next year.
I second pat-bama. Long lasting fragrant roses are what you want in a cutting garden (if you like fragrance). His list is very good and I grow most of them. I would add Sonia Rykiel, Barbra Streisand, Evelyn, Memorial Day, Frederic Mistral, Papa Meilland, Stainless Steel, Blue Moon, New Zealand, Beverly, Granada, Augusta Luise and Yves Piaget. All these are pretty productive for me.
Opinions will differ on whether to prune, but all the canes contain stored nutrients that can help the plant refoliate. If you don't prune, new growth will come mostly at the top, which may look awkward, but IMO that approach will lead to a more vigorous plant.
The picture shows leaves dying of blackspot disease. If the weather turns hotter and drier, this problem should decrease. However, there are highly effective synthetic fungicides that will stop it from spreading and will not burn the foliage. If you are comfortable using these, I recommend any product containing only propiconazole or tebuconazole. I use Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs. Don't buy any of the Bayer combo products (All-in-One, etc.) that are featured at the box stores..
You may have over-fertilized with the fish. We recommend little or no fertilizer for the first months.
Also, you may have burned foliage with "a variety of organic products," although I don't see any symptoms in the picture (purple smears or tan dry areas). Fungicides called "organic" (oil, sulfur, copper, bicarbonate) are less effective and more likely to burn than the best synthetic products. Also some of them are incompatible with others. You can get by with one of them if used with caution, but please don't throw a bunch of stuff from the pantry at the roses.
I have Scepter'd Isle in the neighboring state of Nebraska, and it's a pretty resilient rose. Mine recovers from winter damage without hesitation and in a normal year the blackspot isn't too bad. As Kate said, this hasn't been a normal year with record precipitation and gloom, so don't worry too much about less than perfect foliage. Giving it some water at the base, watering deeply but not necessarily every day, will wash away some of the over-fertilization Michael is talking about. The holes in the leaves are rose slugs, and they are little green worms under the leaves. If they bother you, you can pick them out or spray all over the undersides of the leaves to wash them out. For my part, I just wait for the birds and good bugs to take care of them. They don't really hurt the rose, just make the leaves look a little goofy.
Give it time to settle in - whatever conditions you have are different than in the nursery where you bought it, so you need to be patient as it settles in and not give it too much fussing with things like fertilizers. Water and the mulch around the drip line is mostly what it wants.
Cynthia
I'm in So CA by Disneyland so I can't comment on cold but I like my Jasmina very much. She grows in a Crepe Myrtle tree and the flowers hang down like lovely wisteria blooms. The little stems are thin at first but in a few years will get thicker. I just kept braiding them together until the shoots were thick enough to go straight up without flopping. She still wants to grow sideways sometimes. She has super catchy little hooks so wear old clothes gloves and goggles. I don't get any rebloom but maybe because I cant get up there to cut off the old flowers. This is probably most spectacular on a low fence where she can spread wide and you can remove the old blooms. I have her growing high because the flower clusters hang down and I like looking up into them.
In bloom this is one beautiful shrub/climber
I saw this rose the first time at a local nursery. I've been wanting this rose but now that I see the flowers in person, I have to say I am a bit disappointed. Then again, the blooms were old and fading soon so it is not a new open blooms. Can anyone who grow this rose share what they think of this rose now.
Nah, I won't throw in the towel because of a few pests - I won't let them bully me ;) I too have found it to be relaxing & a stress reliever, even if it may cause a stroke, lol! Plus I have lots of paper wasps/parasitic wasps, bumblebees, songbirds, etc, to take care of the pests. I do, however, need to find some native plants to attract more as well as plants to keep pests at bay.
Being a beginner at roses, as well as having a certain mindset that they are difficult to maintain (as my mother always said but I'm overcoming), I've been babying them, need to let nature do its thing & sit back to enjoy my work thus far. I do thoroughly enjoy everything that comes with it: pruning, dead heading, making my own trellises, I even enjoy watering :)
Thanks for the encouragement & input; that's enough to keep me moving forward!
Nic
P.S. I've checked for pests today & found nothing, but would've let them be if I did ;)
I purchased this rose (Melody Parfumée) from a local nursery called Plant Ranch Nursery. I don't think they grow their own roses though. Most of the Fortuniana roses I get from local nurseries or hardware stores seem to come from Nelson's I think, since there's usually some sort of Nelson's sticker on the pot.
OTM is a much prettier bush than Valencia and for my placement I need that. Compared to Valencia, OTM blooms much more often, it hasn't stopped blooming continuously this summer. And the huge blooms last a long time in the vase, nearing a week or so. And OTM is thriving and blooming in a seacoast location continually hit by salt spray! I can't tell you how many perennials, bushes and even grasses cannot withstand these conditions.
Valencia does have an unusual bloom form which I still love and miss.
Thanks again Pat!
Give it some time. Mine did much better the 2nd year. I love mine, and blooms are always smaller in hot temps. Colors change depending on temps too. I did get a great flush this July.
Heatwave2000 - don't despair about your Twilight Zone. I suspect it would have done the same thing in a pot, perhaps more so. Nurseries often pump the roses up on a lot of fertilizers to make them look good for sales, and by the time they get to their real sites they're "tired". They've been having to run a marathon for weeks in the sales floor, and they need a rest to rebuild their roots. Add to that a hot climate, and your rose is in a period of adjustment. If it continues putting out those small blooms, I'd actually pinch off the buds before they bloom to give it more time to rebuild its structure. In your warm zone, you wouldn't need to do this routinely, but it's something to try for a rose that's a little stressed to give it a boost.
Remember also that any newly planted rose will not look at its best for a year or two. The rule of thumb is "first year sleep, second year creep, third year leap". That's normal and expected, so you're doing fine!
Cynthia