22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
This is not something you'll be able to do all at once. You will never get the old growth to train to the arch now. It's too inflexible. I would start training any of the newer, more bendable canes to begin with. The usual method to renew a climber is to take out 1/3 of the oldest canes a year for three years. Doing this should encourage the rose to put out new basal growth that you can train to the arch while it is still young and flexible. Over the course of the 3 years you will slowly be removing those stiff canes Eventually all of it will be trained to the arch. You do not want to remove all of the old growth at once. That would not be healthy for the rose.
You should have a pretty "new" plant from your newly forming canes.
I urge you in the future to bury the graft at least several inches below ground--to protect it during the winter. In fact, some northern gardeners bury the graft 4-6 inches below ground level--just to be safe. If the graft suffers winter damage, it is all over for your rose.
We'd like to see pics when your rose finally blooms. : )
Kate
You need to prune off all the dead wood and let those new basal breaks grow out. Any cane that has a brown or tan center is dead wood. Clip off a bit at a time down from the top until you find a nice clear greenish white center in the cane. From there on down the cane should be alive. Congratulations! Looks like your roses survived a hard winter!
If I could find absolutely no information about width, here in Kansas zone 6 I would probably just use a standard measurement of 3 feet between the hybrid teas and maybe 4 to 4.5 ft between the floribundas. Unless, of course, you want to walk between the roses--then add a couple feet more for walking room.
Since hoovb says the roses will grow a lot larger than "average" in So. Cal., I'd use the same principle there with some extra space added on to each measurement. My point, however, is that most HTs in my experience are not as wide as floribundas, so it makes sense that not quite as much space is needed between the bushes.
There is so much variation in size in roses that it is hard to come up with a definitive answer. From my window I can see several of my HTS--Double Delight is shorter and more upright and thus a bit on the narrow side, Elle is a wider spreading and taller HT, and Berlona is a really tall and narrow upright growing HT. If I had to generalize, however, most of my HTs tend to be more upright and thus somewhat narrow in width --but I don't grow that many HTs, so it is hard to say about most of them. Floribundas, on the other hand, can get quite full and round --maybe 4 feet wide.
Good luck,
Kate
HMF is the most comprehensive rose data base you will find. But all the information listed comes from the breeders, growers and vendors as well as the contributors. If they don't list something for a particular rose it's because they don't know it. They do have some default settings they use if they haven't received that information from another source. And, as others have said here, a lot of the information about how a rose grows varies greatly from place to place. That is why it is very important for all of us to post our own experiences with a rose so others will have the benefit of our knowledge.
Any one of the roses you have listed would stay around 4 X 3 feet in my garden, but I have a short season, maybe 4 or 5 months. In a zone 9 garden they could easily go beyond that height and width. My Double Delight, for instance, never gets to 5 feet tall. It usually only reaches about 3 feet in height for me. However, I have seen pictures of it in California gardens where it is over 5 feet in height.
When you go to HMF don't just read the descriptions either. Look at all the photos and look at where those growers live. I always check the "Gardens" tab to see who is growing it where. I look at the photos to see if there are full plant shots. I know there aren't a lot of them yet but there are more and more people beginning to add plant shots. The more information we add the better the collection of information becomes.
And sometimes you just have to take your chances and go for it. I spent hours planning out my raised rose bed. I was sure I had put all my roses in the right spots so I wouldn't have a short one behind a tall one. Guess what...they did what they wanted and I ended up having to play a little Chinese fire drill with them anyway.
Thanks again for the helpful input! I snipped a dozen or so of the canes, and most were brittle and dry, presumably dead. There were a couple of canes that had a hint of green inside, but those still aren't producing new growth.
The largest bush has 3 fully-green canes, among dozens of brown, dry, brittle ones. The green ones have just started producing leaves. But, I think I will cut the 3 green ones off along with the brown, or I will just have a few straggly canes sticking up above the rest of the new bush. :/
Now I have to figure out how to cut down this monstrous rose bush without getting mauled by thorns! I have elbow-length gloves but I feel like I'll need body armor!
Nope, the front of the cover is right at grass level so the limbs just slide up and over him. Any that do go under get chewed up. He will stop and back up so he doesn't get hung up. He just finished mowing the front yard and has gone back to recharge. Tomorrow he mows the side yard.
Mighn't it be ok if one built a teepee of sticks or rebar over the plants and then cover that with the bubble wrap, maybe poking holes in it to allow for air circulation? because though in my warm area I don't need to protect mature roses for winter, I DO have to protect newly-planted babies, especially bare-roots, and i 've had problems with disease issues mounding with organic material. Instead I've had great success using broken-up pieces of styrofoam and wine corks. I prop the styrofoam pieces up around the canes,supporting them on the outside with rocks, etc. Air still can circulate easily, since it's by no means air-tight,but the fact that these materials are completely inorganic means that bacteria and fungus doesn't breed easily. Just a thought...
Yes, as Diane said. Blue Chip is the largest of the micros and the easiest to find. I haven't tried it Nik, since I wanted an even smaller one. The Lo and Beholds generally are getting mixed reviews so far, and I'm not seeing much yet on the Flutterby, but I'll report back after I've worked with them for awhile.
jannike
The plant is about 12" tall (but it has been pruned yearly and relocated in my garden a few times)
The blossoms have a slight scent.
Photos show the color of the new growth and thorns/prickles.
Form of plant:
Close-up of blossom:
Close-up of blossom:
Side view of blossom:
Fully-open blossom and new blossoms:
Close-up of new blossom:
Close-up of bud:
Thorns:
New leaves:
Cute little rose. Interesting to see how it will do in a garden. It looks to be in the "potted gift" class.
'Saturnus King Terrazza'
Buying lots of roses. We've all been there. :-)
I also agree on using Bayer, Spectracide Immunox is also good but it's hard to find. I have tried potassium bicarbonate and soap in a spray bottle with limited success, it works well on PM though. BS is most active in high humidity and temps between 65-80F, when the temps get to 85F it goes dormant. It only takes 7 hours for the spores to germinate, that's why it's best to spray right after it rains.
BTW: potassium bicarbonate is non-toxic so it's safe to use on fruits and vegetables.
I'm in a coastal zone 9/10 climate, and I would add Sugar Moon (white HT) to sincerely100's suggestions.
I also grow and agree with Firefighter (red HT).
Here at the coast, I find Barbra Streisand and Double Delight have some disease problems in my no-spray garden during damp weather, but otherwise are highly fragrant and beautiful.
-- Janene
roses not established. it's been hot the past 6 days straight. SOAK those puppies; they'll bounce back.
I agree with Michael. If the other 3 are doing well then there is something wrong with how this one is planted. You may have left air pockets in the soil. Besides checking to see if it's firmly planted and not being attacked by gophers or such I would flood it with water and tamp the soil around the rose down firmly. Let the water all soak in and then flood it again. Then all you can do is wait and see.