22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Cute little rose. Interesting to see how it will do in a garden. It looks to be in the "potted gift" class.
'Saturnus King Terrazza'
Buying lots of roses. We've all been there. :-)
I also agree on using Bayer, Spectracide Immunox is also good but it's hard to find. I have tried potassium bicarbonate and soap in a spray bottle with limited success, it works well on PM though. BS is most active in high humidity and temps between 65-80F, when the temps get to 85F it goes dormant. It only takes 7 hours for the spores to germinate, that's why it's best to spray right after it rains.
BTW: potassium bicarbonate is non-toxic so it's safe to use on fruits and vegetables.
I'm in a coastal zone 9/10 climate, and I would add Sugar Moon (white HT) to sincerely100's suggestions.
I also grow and agree with Firefighter (red HT).
Here at the coast, I find Barbra Streisand and Double Delight have some disease problems in my no-spray garden during damp weather, but otherwise are highly fragrant and beautiful.
-- Janene
http://www.paulbardenroses.com/hybridteas/soleildor.html
Good history of yellow roses
The active ingredient in Bayer Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs is tebuconazole. This compound is "likely" an effective endocrine disruptor. One of the most recent (2014) reviewed, published scientific papers is (fortunately) available, in full, to the general public. The link below gives the rose forum discussion of this paper.
The actual paper is at:
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214750014000262
This is where the EPA is/was, concerning a ban, as of 2014:
http://www.apsnet.org/meetings/Documents/2014_meeting_abstracts/aps2014abS74.htm
I'd say that some good general advice is to learn about the various types of roses and how you can use them in your garden. Generally, Hybrid Teas are the divas of the rose world, being bred for large, cut-worthy, beautiful, but fewer blooms on sometimes/often temperamental plants. Floribundas were created to provide color impact by interbreeding Hybrid Teas (generally single, large blooms) with Polyanthas (clusters of small blooms) to get something in between. Polyanthas themselves are great for easy-care color on (generally) smaller plants but with a more limited color-range than their Floribunda descendants. Miniatures can vary from the those which are like tiny Polyanthas or Chinas to others that grow larger but retain small foliage and blooms -- you'll have to research them individually to know what you're getting. Shrub roses are a bit of a catch-all, and there are several sub-groups, such as Hybrid Musks (some of which are like big Polyanthas, others are sem-climbing), Rugosas, Hybrid Kordesii (these two are more often grown in cold-climates), and various species-hybrids which take more after their wild ancestors in habit but with some "refinement" of their blooms. Within the classification of Shrubs are David Austin's English Roses, which again are a mixed bag, united only by their breeder who sought to emulate the old rose "look" in modern repeat-blooming roses.
Among the antiques you'll find the old European once-blooming types like Gallicas, Damasks, Centifolias, Albas, Pimpinellifolias, Hybrid Chinas, Hybrid Bourbons, and a few others. Some may wonder why, with so many repeat-blooming roses, we should bother with the old once-blooming varieties. Well, in a mixed garden, they provide an explosion of color (and, usually, fragrance) in their shorter season of bloom -- rather like many other non-rose blooming shrubs like lilacs or azaleas. While a garden of only once-blooming roses will be rather boring for most of the year, there is definitely a place for them in a mixed garden. Also among the once-blooming roses are various ramblers and climbers which provide similar exuberant abundance of color during their respective seasons -- if you've ever seen arbors or houses or even trees festooned with rose blooms, you'll have seen how the once-blooming ramblers also have their place.
There are also a few types of repeat-blooming antiques. Based on your area, you're in a warm-enough climate to grow Chinas and (probably) Teas. These two groups brought the reblooming trait into virtually all repeat-blooming types of roses. Chinas would be akin to the Polanthas (from which they descend) in that they provide at least a few blooms throughout the growing season. Teas generally have more intricate blooms, and often more fragrance, and often can grow to become rather large shrubs over time. Noisettes arose from a cross between Chinas and the old Musk rose, and are somewhat like large Polanthas with more fragrant blooms in shades of pink through white. Tea-Noisettes are often used as repeat-blooming climbers, and like their name implies, they are something between Teas and Noisettes. Bourbons are a varied group, but generally they provide the fragrance of the old European once-blooming roses on plants that either bloom in multiple flushes throughout the season, or two flushes -- once in late Spring, and again in late Summer to Autumn. Portlands are basically repeat-blooming Damasks with a Gallica-like growth habit, sometimes a tad taller. Hybrid Perpetuals are a very mixed bag -- some grow like Bourbons, some like Portlands, some like something else entirely. Generally, they provide a main flush in late Spring and bloom again after the heat of Summer has passed -- if provided another round of fertilizer and given ample water.
If you're wondering which roses to add to your garden, my advice would be to imagine how you'd want your rose to grow in that particular spot, and seek the plant before the bloom. For example, if you want your rose to be an arching shrub, don't get a Hybrid Tea and think you can train or prune it to grow that way. This will avoid buying a particular rose because of its pretty flower only to find that it doesn't "do" what you want. Take a look online for more detailed definitions and descriptions of the various classes of roses to get an understanding of what will work for you. Also seek out any local public gardens -- especially if the collection goes beyond modern roses. Then, when you find a few that catch your eye, check them out individually by searching their names at HelpMeFind to see comments, references, and pictures.
:-)
~Christopher
I don't know if you have a Whole Foods Market near you, but for your zone, I was told they were selling DA roses, specifically Lady of Shalott around Mother's Day for 19.99. Here's the link:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/2807749/austin-roses-at-whole-foods
I have been to both Trader Joe`s and Walmart, and neither one had anything. Of course roses are just starting to be sold here. I guess last year some places ordered early and then they got frozen and looked like "hell" according to one nursery. I think I will be happy with Tropicana. So now I have a new Firefighter and Neil Diamond, both from Edmunds, and a Chrysler Imperial and an Oklahoma from Home Depot, as well as Tropicana. Thanks again!
Rosecandy, those were taken in the morning lol. My phone camera has problems probably been dropped too many times. Its almost time for an upgrade so...lol. My regular camera has issues as well so I'm making due for awhile.
Nikansi. Interesting about the Novalis not having any scent there. It is pretty warm and humid here so maybe the scent is stronger? I have a really sensitive nose and can usually smell stuff others say they can't smell very well. DH can never smell anything unless its really strong lol. The scent was stronger in the morning when the bloom first opened. You have to put your nose up to the flower though.
Mayurkirti - I was thinking about things I have read by Ann Peck regarding her research into RRD, and I wanted to say that if I were you I would not re-plant a rose in this spot. RRD is transmitted by tiny mites that travel on the wind currents. Ann found evidence that tall roses and roses in spots where the currents dip or drop were more likely to become infected as the wind deposited the mites there. That tall rose up against that board fence made me think that if the wind brought the mites from somewhere in your area to that spot once, it may again.
Just a thought. As I said before, I'm no expert in the disease and it has not reached northern Michigan - yet - so I've yet to see it here, thank heavens. But I have seen herbicide damage in a member of my rose society's garden that caused me to research carefully and although herbicides can cause something similar to RRD symptoms, there are subtle differences as Patty W. said. I'd urge you to remove and bag this entire rose and plant some other type of shrub or perennial in its place. And then keep a close watch on your other two roses in future. Somewhere upwind of you there are other infected roses...
Here btw is the link to Ann's e-book on the subject for anyone wanting more info.
The plant is about 12" tall (but it has been pruned yearly and relocated in my garden a few times)
The blossoms have a slight scent.
Photos show the color of the new growth and thorns/prickles.
Form of plant:
Close-up of blossom:
Close-up of blossom:
Side view of blossom:
Fully-open blossom and new blossoms:
Close-up of new blossom:
Close-up of bud:
Thorns:
New leaves:
Gary, over the years Poulsen have released many Parade roses similar or identical to yours which often have no tagged names.I have had a few, bought at Supermarkets, which have been impossible to trace.
Melodye