22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
One advantage of disbudding is that open flowers attract extra JBs to your yard. I definitely recommend this if JBs are bad. You could identify a few roses that you like for cutting, remove the side buds, and let the lead buds develop, picking them as soon as the sepals split or drop, or discarding them if they are bitten.
If you disbud stems early, the plant will make slightly more vegetative growth for the season. I don't know about roots. But at least you don't have to watch your flowers get ravaged.
Last year did just that to foil a high population of JB's for the first time in this garden. The beetles not harvested for chickens left abruptly when deprived of their favorite food, luckily without sampling other plants. Figured there was no point advertising "Eat at Joe's" with all the rose blooms & decided to shut down this diner. If I wasn't going to benefit from rose blossoms, neither were they! Let the roses bloom again after departure without finding more JB's. Figured the hatchlings in this garden had been trapped or moved on to greener pastures. This year, didn't deadhead after the first flush as a precaution, but they came to a new rose whose blooms I wanted to see & smell which flowered after the rest. Aloha '49, as usual, budded quickly despite forming hips & I've left the buds & flowers as the only lure at the moment in order to trap the JB's emerging here. Easier to concentrate on one rose than many scattered throughout the garden. Must say, hardly any this year (so far anyway) compared to last, so thinking this was worthwhile.
Often David Austin’s catalogue photos and marketing descriptions stray from reality. They call LD Braithwaite a bright crimson. I agree with the bright part, but I've always thought crimson was a stretch. When think of crimson I think of Munstead Wood which incidentally is sometimes pink for me. LD Braithwaite on the other hand, anytime I have seen it, in my own garden and in different climates and conditions is a distinctly recognizable color that doesn't vary much under differing conditions.
My opinion at first was that Dave's photos didn't look like LDB, but to my surprise the color looks rather different now that I see it on a different monitor. I don't see so much blue now. Still, it doesn't have that brightness and the bloom form doesn't seem familiar, so I do have to wonder if it was mislabeled. I rec'd 4 mislabeled roses from DA this year (not bashing DA, they admit their mistakes and make them right when they happen).
Of course that’s only my opinion. I wanted to add the discussion since I find the variety of experience and opinions of this forum’s users to immensely helpful whenever I’m in need of a rose ID.
i don't know guys-david austin has been offering this rose for 30 yrs. with the same pics and descriptions. the pics might be off although not by much but certainly we have to accept his descriptions-unless of course you feel you know more about his roses than he does
the bloom form on my pic almost perfectly matches the da catalog pic so i'm going to have to go with the idea that you must grow something that is not ld.
Leaf shape and the color of mature leaves can be useful for identification. The heat of the summer may also affect blooms--there are a few plants that do better when its hot--St. Patrick does wonderfully in hot weather. For others, the color can be off and you may wind up with far fewer petals than normal.
Hi Diane, I'd love to take the credit but the pics aren't mine although I DO have Music Box and Sweet Fragrance. Music Box has flowered but the flowers were kind of small. I'm sure she'll improve with age. No flowers yet on SW but High Voltage has a bud and Champagne Wishes has flowered a coupole of times. They are growing well and look very healthy so I'm hoping that these will perform as well as Centennial Rose, which is gorgeous. I bought the only one the nursery ahd last year and was hoping he'd get some this yera but he didn't. Otherwise I would have boughta second one. Even though it has very little scent its vigor, disease resistance and practically non-stop flowering makes it a keeper.
Sharon
If you are just trying to make another (ownroot) rose from the 1st grafted rose, you can also pull down a cane, depending on the growth habit, and start the rooting process that way. Put a rock or something to keep part of the cane under dirt, and eventually it will root and you can cut that new plant off from your original plant.
Meredith has some good advice. It might be easier to use what they call the "layering" method to root a cane and then cut it off. You'll have a much better success rate because the mother plant will still be feeding the cane while the section that's under the soil will put out roots. I recommend what Meredith says.
Jerri has some great advice too, but you'd have to dig up the rose or build a raised area around it in order to get it deeper into the ground once its planted. If the rose is newly planted and sill easy to move (has not yet set out delicate feeder roots, within a week) you can do that. If not, try rooting it using the layering method above.
My cuttings usually lose their leaves. Sounds like you had good success on rooting them. Do not feed them until they have started putting on "grown up" leaves. I just uncover mine a little more every couple of days until they are more than half uncovered. You can leave them in the cups until the cups are full of roots. then I pot them in larger pots. I am afraid to put them straight in the ground with it so hot. I would keep them in the same place where you have them now.
It's true that green yard waste contributes more nutrients, but wood mulch works well. Here is an assessment by a PhD horticulturist:
http://puyallup.wsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/wood-chips.pdf
We call a strong shoot from the ground a basal break if it is good (from the graft or above) and a rootstock sucker if it is bad (from below the graft). In the case of a bush rose, you can just let it grow a few feet and see if it sets a flower bud, in which case it is good. In the case of a climbing rose like 'America', you can dig down and investigate, but this is probably a good basal break.
Re: The new stalk - Yeah, doesn't look like Multifora. either. Multifora has smaller and more vicious thorns. So, I'm betting it's a basal split.
Re: Wood Mulch
My understanding was that wood multch mixed with the soil will temporarily tie up nitrogen when the multch decomposes; but when it is finished decomposing the nitrogen and organic mater will be available to the plant.
As a cover on top, it will really only react with the first few inches of soil, and if you add new multch every year, you should always have a layer of multch that is done decomposing and nitrogen saturated right under the layer that is at the stage... So, you're slowly introducing more nitrogen and organic compounds to the equation. If your composting or fertelizing as well, you'll have no problem.
That said, michaelg's link is from a more authoritative source. Here's the TL;DR: there is no evidence multch depletes the nitrogen of a bed, and has been shown to increase nitrogen of a bed over time. Though she theorizes that there is a nitrogen "dead zone" at the weed/seed level, but that won't effect established plants. Which seems like a good thing to me.
Wow, it's interesting how scent can vary. I have had Excellenz von Schubert for 6 or 7 years and never noticed a scent at all. True, I have a poor "nose", but I definitely agree that Jude the Obscure has a lovely scent, and Sharifa Asma is always a favorite among Austins. Looks like I'll have to bring in a spray of ExVonSch and see if I can detect anything.
Cynthia
Nipstress, that might be because Excellenz von Schubert and Gartendirektor Otto Linne are sometimes mixed up in commerce. Some nurseries have been selling Gartendirektor Otto Line as Excellenz von Schubert for years. They can look very much alike. However while EVS is very fragrant, GOL has only a mild (if that) fragrance.
That's a great idea Michael. That's what I would do. That way if DJ dies back from cold, you're still covered. And if the new hardy climber is red, the two will blend nicely.
I'd give them some extra water. And agree with Michael's idea.