22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
KOs are no more prone to RRD than any other rose. A couple of reasons people think they are; one there are so darn many of them planted and two they are planted too close together. At least here they are in every bank, shopping center, business park and most homes have them. All of the professional landscapers plant them 2' apart to get the beautiful hedges of color. Canes crossing canes crossing canes and those little mites just crawl right across them eating them up.
Just last week I was driving by an apartment complex with a 50 yd stretch of double pink KOs and right there in the middle of them was obvious RRD. On down the street was a flower bed along side a bank that had about 10 HT and from the street I saw two with RRD. I stopped and went in both places and told them of their problem. The answer I got from both places was, well we will tell the landscape company. I expect that RRD will continue to spread until all the roses in both locations are infected.
Erika--If you are having trouble finding Black Baccara at helpmefind.com, try the double "c"--not the double "r." : ) I did give you a link to that source in my post above.
Oklahoma might work. At times it is very dark; other times red, but a darker red. I've never quite figured out why it is darker sometimes, more red other times. It also has the advantage of being rather bs resistant--which many, perhaps most, HTs are NOT.
Here's a pic of my Oklahoma, 2 years old, showing its dark phase:
Kate
Kate, you're absolutely right. I did use a double "r" rather than a double "c" at HMF. That is what I get from not double-checking my spelling before typing it into HMF. At the time, I was quite perplexed that HMF didn't have the rose; it had never happened to me before. :)
Thanks Everyone!
Diane, Seil, you've given me the strength to evict WBY. Feels good!
Seil, I could have used that advice fifteen years ago when I moved to LA with the wrong guy! :D
JJ, you're in Markham, right? I'm in Scarborough. I'd be happy to save WBY for you if you like, though as Jim says, this bush could be a dud.
You can consider offering it to a friend.
I have received other people's DUD plants, and they went gangbusters for me and are among my favorite plants. Sometimes it is just your immediate environment isn't right for the plant, or some other rather arbitrary thing that was outside what any of us would know to consider.
It will appease your inner conscious, gives the plant another chance at life and if it dies, its no real lose to your or your beneficiary. Who knows, maybe your friend will turn into another gardener comrade.
(Ooops just noticed you offered it lol.......something about great minds).
No problem! Also, that dog of a rose looks to me like Blue Girl. The one I have also is danged disease ridden it's a wonder that it hasn't keeled over.
But to answer your question, I think most HTs can be grown in big (15 to 20 gallon) containers. Just need a bit more attention to them.
It's a weird bush, it has barely 6 or so mature leaf sets, since the others dropped out of sickness, yet it keeps pushing flowers.
And I actually have a 15 gallon pot laying around empty, how convenient!
Thanks again Joe!
Comtesse, are you referring to the Viraraghavans?
I am indeed, Nik, thank you. That article you linked to on HMF looks as if it includes some of the same contents as the article I mentioned. When I searched on HMF before for the Viraghavans' details, I still couldn't find contact details, except for a private email address in a reply to a query from someone else, which I didn't feel sure it would be OK for anyone other than the questioner to use.
It's rather inconvenient that one can't leave the page even for a moment while writing a post to look up a reference, since one's draft immediately gets wiped out. Maybe something we could ask Tamora about.
Comtesse :¬)
Sound like Happy Child is not happy in colder zones. In my zone 10 garden it grows like a weed and extremely dense with healthy green shiny leave no disease and flowers absolutely non-stop with 100+ flowers on it all the time for 9 months of the year. Shape is consistently good. Fragrance is best in cooler weather. It is one of my best Austins. My is on Fortuniana rootstock.
summersrythem, I would definitely say it is not too late to order from them. They ship almost year round and always have a great supply available. Just a couple more reasons why I love them.
Thanks again to everyone who complimented!!! I promise to post more photos as they bloom!
I second what Diane said. I grow several different types of boxwood (a couple that you mentioned) and the variety was determined by the mature size I'm looking for. Whatever type of plant you chose try to find a cultivar who's mature size is similar to what you are looking for. I would not want to be trying to constrain my Green Mountain boxwood to a 2' hedge!! Ugh.
I use a much smaller variety (Green Gem maybe?) that I keep about 18" as a hedge in front of roses. Anything much taller than 2' gets too tall for my tastes to be in the front row without blocking too much of the roses.
I am thinking of an rectangular enclosed area formed by hedges about the height of a short picket fence. The roses will be inside the hedges peeking out. Ideally I am thinking of 3 to 4 feet in height. I will think about it first.
I know you are right Seil, but I have noticed some difference in some of my blooms. Last year during my spring flush I was very pleased with some of my roses, Pink Peace did especially good, but several of them weren't at their best. A couple of examples this year that they seem to be doing much better, my Dublin Bay blooms are gorgeous and have a higher petal count, I've always liked it, but the blooms this year are the prettiest I've ever seen. My Belinda's Dream blooms are huge, and gorgeous, believe me they were pretty last year, but this year they're outstanding! The buds on nearly all my hybrid teas are huge. I've read several times about the third year leap and I am guessing it is partly due to that, also we've had some weather lately that I think is conducive to helping roses be at their best. No matter what a spring flush brings I will always look forward to it, but I do believe some are better than others. I meant to say thank you everyone!
New growth on bareroots (or established plants breaking dormancy) will be fine at that temp, no need to cover. It won't stay down there that long, and there will still be some residual heat from the daytime temps.
Bands are different, as most of them are grown in a greenhouse, as wirosarian noted. I would protect those (I recommend for this area that we don't have bands delivered until mid-May for that reason) plants for the short term.
Thank you everyone for your advice. I am happy to report that my roses are ok from the cold night when temps dropped down 31 degrees for a couple hours. There was no damage on the new growths from bareroots at all and new growths on existing roses were fine too though they have been rather yellowish.
Shacute - since I'm close to you in Nebraska, and we have similar
climates, I have to heartily endorse Bonica as well. It's fantastic in
our cold and variable climates, and bushes out nicely every year. Not
perhaps as lovely as Malorena's (what is?), but quite nice, and very
easy care for a beginning rose. You still have to prune out dead wood at
the end of winter like with any rose, but otherwise it really looks out
for itself and blooms all summer like this. Mine is a little less compact than it might be otherwise because it's in part shade, but a rose that can bloom like this in part shade? Sign me up...
I agree with Sharon that the Easy Elegance roses are very nice for our zone, and they're sold pretty widely in our area (Mulhall's in Omaha has a fantastic selection). My favorite among them that would do nicely for a hedge is Sweet Fragrance, which is a lovely saturated peach color that blooms all summer at around 4' high once established. Some of the other Easy Elegance roses, as well as some of the Kordes Veranda and Flower Circus roses, may be too short growing to serve as a hedge if you want it to be chest high or so. Those latter two varieties are bred to be 2-3' high, though the Fairy Tale series are taller in general. Among the Easy Elegance, Sunrise Sunset gets bigger for me with support, but it really wants to be 2' high and 8' wide without support. Yellow Brick Road or High Voltage might do OK as medium sized yellow bushes, but they're pretty loose blooms and they turn cream pretty quickly.
If you have access to a Bonica you really can't lose in our zone, and that'll give you enough confidence in your rose skills to plant a lot more roses elsewhere (sneaky, aren't we?)
Cynthia
I am going to do rebar arches. 1/2" 20' x2 tied and crossed at the center just like used in the photos from Sacramento on the antique roses forum. It will rust but should out live me
Duratrel makes vinyl PVC trellises and arbors. They have a 20 year warranty, and are easy to assemble. Many different styles and price points. They come with metal stakes that when driven into the ground make them sturdy enough for training a rose.
Here's a few links:
http://t.homedepot.com/p/Dura-Trel-85-in-x-64-in-x-28-in-Mocha-Vinyl-PVC-Providence-Arbor-11178M/205709042/
http://t.homedepot.com/p/Dura-Trel-100-in-x-58-in-x-37-in-White-Vinyl-PVC-Hartford-Arbor-11110/205708843/
I have a couple of the trellis in Mocha next to the house and they blend nicely with our brick, which I like, so the rose can stand out.
Any metal type of arbor which is sturdy enough for a rose is a different story, you can't get one that you can assemble, you need to get it in one large piece. That means shipping on a truck and can easily bump up the cost, but I think that A Rustic Garden has a good selection and is reasonable.
http://www.arusticgarden.com/arandar.html
As far as iron, I have actually found it be be more cost effective to have a local metal worker make something.
I have just been going down this road recently looking for a couple of iron obelisks, so this is all fresh in my mind...
On a side note, if the iron is treated correctly, is should not rust into a deteriorated pile. It can be clear coated with a spar-eurathane or an outdoor rated spray paint. Home Depot has a good selection. Granted it will need some maintenance - meaning every couple of years add a clear coat- which I plan to do in winter. I have several outdoor tables which are iron and I have them treated like this. They are many years old and doing great. Nothing is maintenance free. I personally wouldn't want anything rusting onto my roses, so even if you go the re-bar route, I would consider using a spar-eurathane to prevent that...just my 2cent :-)
Have fun with your project!
Adrianne