22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I have them in my yard here in Camp Verde Arizona. They will eat the feeder roots on anything. If you get enough of them they will kill a rose or any other type of plant. They will even eat bulbs. I use 7 granules and then water it in. Mine are from June bugs.
It seems to bloom more than Moonstone. I have a few blooms on it now, but it's been raining for a few days, so I'm not sure what shape they are in. I did cut one that just opened last night and I have it in the fridge for the show, which is on Saturday. I hope it lasts!
I will see if I can get a picture and post it.
I've had all three, but only pjpII is still in my garden (I have four). It is a big heat lover, keeps blooming in the summer without the blooms shrinking. Scent is strong at all times for me, but Dallas is much drier than here (comparatively), so I don't know if that makes a difference.
I think so did reach Texas and I know they plan to put more to Texas this next Spring. I never know what stores they go to but I will see if we can get an idea where they are delivering next spring.
For me Lemon Fizz is a simple not very strong sweet smelling rose. I am always jealous of the people who have a better sense of smell than I have. Sometimes I have people just walk by the display garden and they smell so much more than I do. I think it might be my allergies that affect my sense of smell, but I also think that different scents are more powerful for different people.
BlueKYstream, you should have no trouble overwintering Poseidon in your zone, though South Africa and Plum Perfect have needed some protected areas to do well for me in zone 5. Patty, it's good to hear that the Sun Belt roses have a chance in our zones, since there are half a dozen new ones to me in Chamblee's lists that I'd like to try. Since Plum Perfect didn't even pretend to survive last winter, I'm taking those varieties much more cautiously than most of the other Kordes. Chris, I appreciate the notice that these are bred more for warmer climates so that I can take appropriate measures to give them warmer spots in the yard.
Cynthia
I quite like my Paloma Blanca, but as Michael says I'm in the Midwest, and the Buck roses were specifically bred for my climate (from next-door state Iowa). It's rock solid hardy even on the zone 4 pocket of my house, and rebounds from being pruned to the ground with nice white double blooms from midsummer on. Mine isn't a terrifically prolific bloomer, but it's much more reliable than most of the white HTs like Pope John Paul II or Secret's Out.
I find that mine starts out with those high-spiraled blooms like you can see below. Notice all the buds around this bloom just waiting to pop
Here's a whole bush shot, not including some additional green branches off to the left of the picture that weren't blooming at the time. I'd say mine grows a bit wider than tall, maybe 3.5' high by 4' wide after being pruned to the ground.
Here's one more shot showing the more usual shape of the blooms once they're open. This one is from November of last year, testament to its hardiness since that's well after first frost.
You can see on the last picture a little of the only down side to this rose for me. The blooms last a long time, but they brown on the outer petals and edges pretty quickly. About half of my Paloma Blanca pictures have this more prominently. It seems fairly BS resistant and the hardiness alone and bloom potential make it a winner for me. Still, as I say it was bred for my zone. We don't get noticeable rust on any rose like Kim gets on his, and Paloma Blanca seems to like our winter cold. In zone 7 it might be worth a try, depending on what kind of BS pressure you get.
Cynthia
I had two Julia Childs and one Pink Knockout planted last fall, in MA northwest of Boston. I didn't do anything special in the way of winter protection, though the area is shielded by trees on one side and the house on the other, and the bark mulch throughout the garden is about 2-3 inches thick.
The Julias died down to the crown, but came back in mid-to-late spring, and have done very well. The Pink Knockout did better in terms of surviving the winter, got eaten by some insect in mid-spring, recovered, bloomed later than I expected, but is also doing very well.
Michael explained it perfectly. I'll add that most modern roses just aren't bred to have the greatest winter hardiness. They are bred for the beauty of those repeat blooms and little else. Mr. Radler worked on getting that hardiness in the Knock Out roses. Also a lot of the Griffith Buck roses were bred with hardiness in mind. Unless the breeder is in a cold climate, or testing in one, and selects with hardiness as a criteria the roses that come to market won't necessarily be hardy in zones 6 and lower.
I second what Sheila says and would add that Southern California, zone 10 is HOT right now. They heat makes roses semi dormant. The blooms on my rose plants are few in number and small in size, especially on the newly established ones. I am following the advise to cut back on fertilizers during summer months, but in small amounts, I am using recommended "Rose Elixirs". My main goal during the summer heat is to help them to survive, which is a challenge in the drought. I am pruning lightly to ready for the fall flush, the time where the weather cools and the roses have a chance to recover. But you really won't see the potential of the roses until they reach their third year. First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap. The roses take time to establish their root systems...and then pow! Look out, you'll want to sing, ♪"Everything's coming up roses"♬
First off it's been really hot and dry in SoCal this summer. Roses in hot zones go sort of dormant in high heat to conserve water and nutrients. That may be all that's going on.
When things cool down a bit they'll probably start putting on new buds. It would probably be a good idea to water a little more often in high temperatures if you can. I know there are water restrictions in places so do the best you can with that.
When it gets a little cooler you may want to give them some other kind of fertilizer too. Something more quick acting than just the Rose Tone.
I would also stay away from any kind of oil treatments. In high heat situations oils on the leaves can cause burning. If you must treat them for PM find a fungicide that is specific for that disease. But you should NEVER spray anything on the roses in temperatures over 80 degrees.
I love mine, they perform well in the Chicago area, too.
I like mine. I do sometimes have problems with the blooms not opening fully, but that may be because of thrips, which it seems to attract. Great fragrance.