22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Heirloom Roses carries it and it's in stock :) Looks like a pretty rose. I love climbers: Spice So Nice at Heirloom Roses
We're guessing on the sawfly larvae, of course. If you could upload photos of damaged leaves, we could say for sure.
All you have to do, to upload photos, is click on the little "photo" icon shown where you type your post. Then, you can "browse" for a photo in your files.
OR you can go to:
https://www.google.com/search?q=sawfly+larvae+damage&biw=1077&bih=561&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=GVuHVcbyL4-cyATxk63IBQ&ved=0CC4QsAQ
to see what sawfly larvae and their damage looks like.
And, as several have said -- using toxic chemicals for this pest is like killing flies with a sledgehammer. The peripheral damage is worse than the original problem.
Mintboxer, Where did you purchase Terminix All Clear Mister? It's pretty expensive. I don't think HD/Lowe's carry that. It's nice to know it works on sawflies. Thanks for the info. I tried to make 1 gal spray with a mosquito dunk for midge, it didn't work very well, but I did get a few rose buds on one cane out of a whole bush, but that's midge, which is very hard to kill. I know HD & Lowe's have Safer Brand Insect Killer soap for about $6.00/7.00, some of my friends from rose club use that for sawflies and other bugs. I think that's a organic spray, beacuse one of them who uses Safer Brand Insect Killer soap, she eats roses. :-) I use Bayer's Inects Killer this season, because I have midge issue in my rose garden. it does kill a lot of bugs inculding midge, sawflies, bad and good bugs.......I spray it right before dark, so it won't kill any honey bees. This season I also spray Bioneem (about $10 from Amazon), which is also a organic spray for bugs, I'm trying it out for midge issue, it works on sawflies too, but I think that's a strong spray for just sawflies. I spray that at night when the temperture is under 80. I'd say Safer Brand Insect Killer soap is the cheapest if you choose to spray. :-)
After a flower fades, the stem just below it is suitable for rooting as a half-hardened cutting. Search online for "rose propagation," or "rooting rose cuttings." The failure rate is pretty high for beginners, though.
Another approach is to use stems that are thicker and more fully hardened and just stick them in the ground in the shade during a season with high humidity and frequent rain. Here in the temperate zone, we can do this over winter. Again, it is hit or miss. Set 3/4 of the cutting below ground.
Welcome, your English is fine.
I find it easy enough to grind up the leaves with a leaf shredder and dump it all onto a compost pile--where it gets transformed into this wonderful black crumbly stuff--a far cry from the slimy mess of leaves that seems to create disease issues with my roses. The additional steps involved are well worth the effort in my garden.
I just spread fallen leaves over the rose beds in autumn 3-4 inches deep and some more again in spring after the mulch has thinned. I haven't had any problem with canker. It's basically sheet composting cum mulching. Good weed suppression, moisture retention, and humus added to the soil faster than bark would do. It's also the most labor-efficient and cheapest solution if you have enough leaves.
It's like many which combine genes from once flowering and repeaters. In the right climate, the right conditions, with the suitable maturity, it CAN rebloom. It can't be guaranteed to rebloom everywhere and every year. I grew Silver Moon, a once flowering LCL in Newhall, CA for 18 years. After it was six or so years old and attained "mountain size", it regularly flowered every spring and continued scattering flowers until late fall, but it isn't a "repeat flowering" type. Pink Clouds CAN do similarly. If your "spring" is long and mild enough so roses like Banksiae will continue flowering for weeks to months, you can probably expect the same from PC. Where that once flowering period is cut short by the sudden, extreme season change as if someone flipped a light switch, it will probably do what the others do and stop when the heat hits.
SoFL, I adore Veteran's Honor, I planted 2 of them in my mother's garden but alas it gets black spot and completely defoliates. I never sprayed it though, I wonder if spraying would make a big difference? It has with some of my other plants but not all. I just saw a VH in my nursery in a gallon pot I was so tempted to buy it.
Patty. I definitely will check into Kardinal and Desmond, thanks so much!
It does make a huge difference if you spray. Not everyone wants to. If you are willing to spray it will be great, if not, look for a Kords red or an old garden red. Usually they are more disease resistant. But ogr's get huge and aren't always repeat bloomers so keep that in mind.
Usually spraying is needed for the more modern "better formed" blooms. Old garden reds tend to be sloppy in form but easier to care for. It's a bit of a trade off.
You should attach your state and climate zone to your username. In zone 6 or 5 winters, depending on the rose variety, many climbing roses will suffer winter damage. Just prune away the parts that are not supporting normal growth.
I had the same thing happened to one of my ramblers this year-Brushing Lucy, it can't go around the whole porch now due to the same issue. I have to cut it back a lot in the early spring. I am in zone 6a, it has been pretty winter hardy, but this year I also had rabbit damage to some of the main canes. Some of the canes don't have much leaves, and turned brown......canker issue! I cut off some of the branches earlier, then we got sooo much rain for a long time, it rained everyday for 2 weeks straight. I think my issue is due to the canker. Now I have to wait when the hot weather cools down a little, and cut it back more tonight. Now is 81 degrees and sunny, the air is burnning outside!