22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
After a flower fades, the stem just below it is suitable for rooting as a half-hardened cutting. Search online for "rose propagation," or "rooting rose cuttings." The failure rate is pretty high for beginners, though.
Another approach is to use stems that are thicker and more fully hardened and just stick them in the ground in the shade during a season with high humidity and frequent rain. Here in the temperate zone, we can do this over winter. Again, it is hit or miss. Set 3/4 of the cutting below ground.
Welcome, your English is fine.
I find it easy enough to grind up the leaves with a leaf shredder and dump it all onto a compost pile--where it gets transformed into this wonderful black crumbly stuff--a far cry from the slimy mess of leaves that seems to create disease issues with my roses. The additional steps involved are well worth the effort in my garden.
I just spread fallen leaves over the rose beds in autumn 3-4 inches deep and some more again in spring after the mulch has thinned. I haven't had any problem with canker. It's basically sheet composting cum mulching. Good weed suppression, moisture retention, and humus added to the soil faster than bark would do. It's also the most labor-efficient and cheapest solution if you have enough leaves.
It's like many which combine genes from once flowering and repeaters. In the right climate, the right conditions, with the suitable maturity, it CAN rebloom. It can't be guaranteed to rebloom everywhere and every year. I grew Silver Moon, a once flowering LCL in Newhall, CA for 18 years. After it was six or so years old and attained "mountain size", it regularly flowered every spring and continued scattering flowers until late fall, but it isn't a "repeat flowering" type. Pink Clouds CAN do similarly. If your "spring" is long and mild enough so roses like Banksiae will continue flowering for weeks to months, you can probably expect the same from PC. Where that once flowering period is cut short by the sudden, extreme season change as if someone flipped a light switch, it will probably do what the others do and stop when the heat hits.
SoFL, I adore Veteran's Honor, I planted 2 of them in my mother's garden but alas it gets black spot and completely defoliates. I never sprayed it though, I wonder if spraying would make a big difference? It has with some of my other plants but not all. I just saw a VH in my nursery in a gallon pot I was so tempted to buy it.
Patty. I definitely will check into Kardinal and Desmond, thanks so much!
It does make a huge difference if you spray. Not everyone wants to. If you are willing to spray it will be great, if not, look for a Kords red or an old garden red. Usually they are more disease resistant. But ogr's get huge and aren't always repeat bloomers so keep that in mind.
Usually spraying is needed for the more modern "better formed" blooms. Old garden reds tend to be sloppy in form but easier to care for. It's a bit of a trade off.
This year I resorted to cutting off all the blooms/buds that were thrip damaged. This is a bad year for thrips. If you do that, make sure you put the buds in a plastic bag, seal tightly and put in the garbage, do not compost.
I did resort to spraying, I used Orthene, which exhibitors recommend. It is a strong chemical, but did the job. I misted any new buds with it, avoiding any open blooms.
Everything looks beautiful Andrea. I agree about the grass. Your hubby is so sweet to suggest more roses for you. Mine loves mine but tells me enuf is enuf. He is a sweetie and helps me a bunch but he doesn't understand he still has way more grass than he needs. lol Thanks for sharing, Judy
Very healthy and beautiful roses! I really like your bouquet. The painted roses are very striking. I admire people who grow roses in the middle of the lawn. You must be dedicated to keep the lawn edges sprawling towards your roses. If I were to do that in my hot climate I would have to trim the grass edges every week.
We're guessing on the sawfly larvae, of course. If you could upload photos of damaged leaves, we could say for sure.
All you have to do, to upload photos, is click on the little "photo" icon shown where you type your post. Then, you can "browse" for a photo in your files.
OR you can go to:
https://www.google.com/search?q=sawfly+larvae+damage&biw=1077&bih=561&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=GVuHVcbyL4-cyATxk63IBQ&ved=0CC4QsAQ
to see what sawfly larvae and their damage looks like.
And, as several have said -- using toxic chemicals for this pest is like killing flies with a sledgehammer. The peripheral damage is worse than the original problem.
Mintboxer, Where did you purchase Terminix All Clear Mister? It's pretty expensive. I don't think HD/Lowe's carry that. It's nice to know it works on sawflies. Thanks for the info. I tried to make 1 gal spray with a mosquito dunk for midge, it didn't work very well, but I did get a few rose buds on one cane out of a whole bush, but that's midge, which is very hard to kill. I know HD & Lowe's have Safer Brand Insect Killer soap for about $6.00/7.00, some of my friends from rose club use that for sawflies and other bugs. I think that's a organic spray, beacuse one of them who uses Safer Brand Insect Killer soap, she eats roses. :-) I use Bayer's Inects Killer this season, because I have midge issue in my rose garden. it does kill a lot of bugs inculding midge, sawflies, bad and good bugs.......I spray it right before dark, so it won't kill any honey bees. This season I also spray Bioneem (about $10 from Amazon), which is also a organic spray for bugs, I'm trying it out for midge issue, it works on sawflies too, but I think that's a strong spray for just sawflies. I spray that at night when the temperture is under 80. I'd say Safer Brand Insect Killer soap is the cheapest if you choose to spray. :-)