22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
you might give it a try. I also drain the water out of the self-watering pots because my roses weren't big enough when I re-potted them to have their roots reach that far and I didn't want to rot the roots with soil that is too moist. If you plant something in a pot that is too big where there is a lot of soil around the roots, it is possible to keep the soil too moist for the amount of roots and then you will end up with root rot. Not good. Suggest you test your soil before watering - stick a finger in the soil - if soil sticks to your finger, it's moist enough. If it's dry, you'll be able to tell.
Do you have pictures of it bloomed out before? The trunk is very distinctive and if growth was always at the top part of the crown it might be a tree rose.
Was it a bush from ground up?
Like everyone says, if you don't want to shovel prune it, I would water but don't actively think about it or stare at it for the next month, month and a half. Good luck.
No I don't unfortunately, but all the growth actually were at the top when it used to grow, then from the bottom like the average rose. I was actually thinking it could of been a tree rose, but I'm just not sure now, not an expert lol. I asked my mum if she knew what kind it was as she brought it, but she's not sure either. Yeah, what I'll do is just leave it and keep watering everyday and see what happens in a few months, I think that's all I can do really now. If it doesn't get back to how it was and it doesn't look right, I'll probably yank it up and replace it.
Hi Diane,
This is a list of my current roses:
http://www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=3.4702&tab=2&frmt=1&scp=0&order=1&qn=0&qc=3d
It has been whittled down from about 250 to 70 over the past 10 years.
The other 3 thousand photos I have posted on HMF are rose pics from my garden, pics from rose gardens on the west coast and pics from nurseries. Such as this one from my garden:
Just a funny note. I sent an email to the production manager for that news show. I explained their information error and suggested they vet their interviewees a little more closely. Someone responded and said they received a record number of complaints from gardeners and garden clubs all over the area pointing out their misinformation.
They added a link in their written article pointing to the correct RRD information. It is too much to ask I guess that they simply take the video off their website.
As to the botanic gardens, no one there will return a phone call on the matter.
Thanks for all the helpful responses. Michael, good to see you again. Ann, the leaves are turning green. I read your E book and I would really like to catch any RRD early, if possible. The top growth is flexible but I wouldn't call it rubbery. All the rapid growth in several roses has had me spooked.
I rogued out a rose and took in some canes to the UT extension. They said it "appeared to be RRD" but no mites were present and they didn't have a test to diagnose it. Just confirmed that it had similar symptoms. I was upset that I paid $25. If it didnt show symptoms of RRD I wouldn't have temoved it.
Thanks again! Susan
I'm in zone 6 and I keep my standards in pots. They get wrapped in burlap and stored inside my shed for winter. An insulated but unheated garage works best though. Find a really nice big pot and put it in that. You can still put the pot in that bed for the summer but you'll be able to turn it from time to time to keep the growth more even and it will be easier to winter over.
Soluble materials, including most manufactured fertilizers, will get through to some extent. Water enough to mostly dissolve them and then come back later with more water. I do it this way, although my mulch is not 4" deep.
Most organic fertilizers have to be in contact with soil bacteria to release the nitrogen. Blood and poultry manure contain some soluble urea, but the part of the N that is in protein form will not break down for a long time. Eventually it will get to the mulch/soil interface.
I can't say how Austins will grow in California, but here in the heartland, there are any number of shorter Austins to pick from. Just this morning I was admiring Munstead Wood and Molineux in the back garden--both about 3 ft tall, may grow another half-foot to foot at most by the end of summer. I was thinking how they were just the right size for my gardens.
Austin has several recent roses in the same range--Princess Alexandra of Kent and Boscobel and others, for instance.
Tamara (above) is looking good!
Kate
Campanula - it is true that over 100 years ago they planted thousands of Mme Caroline Testout roses in Portland, I think they were planted along the main streets. I do recall somewhere reading a couple of years ago that a rose person had found several remaining plants from the original plantings, still alive and blooming.
Jackie
I'd guess your rose bushes have been visited by the same rose slugs (sawfly larvae) that tend to attack rose bushes every late spring/early summer. This is usually a temporary problem--then the good predator bugs come along and gobble up the rose slugs, and there is no more problem.
However, the bush is often left with ugly damaged leaves. I would just pluck off the worst looking ones, and then wait patiently for the bush to produce new leaves (followed by buds and then blooms).
In the future, it would help if you checked the bushes in the late spring/early summer for tiny, tiny green wormlike things--usually on the underside of the leaves. When they are present, squish them. That will keep them somewhat under control until the good predator bugs arrive a couple weeks later.
As for the not flowering well problem, that is just part of the normal bloom cycle of any rose. A rose blooms for a couple weeks, then the blooms deteriorate (turn brown) and fall off, then the bush rests and renews itself, then it starts blooming again. Most roses go through several bloom cycles per season.
When the blooms deteriorate, the bush will look better if you deadhead it (pick of the brown old blooms). Deadheading sometimes encourages the bush to begin blooming sooner also.
Hope that helps.
Kate
I can't find the memory stick the scans are on (I moved), and the ARS annuals are boxed in the garage, but in the seventies or eighties, there were at least two articles in the American Rose Annuals about the use of ground pine bark cleaning root knot nematodes from the soil. It was used both as an amendment, mixed in the soil as well as a mulch. Previously infected soils and plants were found to be "cleaned" of the infestation simply due to the cleansing action of the pine bark. You might consider using it if it's locally available in your area. You might also search this forum for the scans as I am sure I have posted them within the past two years when the nematode question was raised previously. Good luck.
Oh yeah, i forgot about the french marigolds. They are ridiculously easy to grow from seed (and fast to bloom) so if you can't find them at your local nursery seeds will be the way to go. Also the pine thing Roseseek mentions. Thats why I said to mulch heavily with pine based mulch in the first reply. I should have clarified that pine mulch repels them.