22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
As George Carlin (aka "The Hippy Dippy Weatherman") said: "Weather forecast for tonight: dark. Continued dark overnight, with widely scattered light by morning".
I'll post more pics when I can again SEE the rose by dawn's early light. (It's 7:52 PM, PST now)
Update: This rose doesn't have any new buds now but it should have in a couple of days. I'll post more photos then.
For me, the hardest roses to get established are the the ones with really hacked root systems--I had a pair of boxed PJPIIs like that. OTOH, I did get Queen of Show with one of those roses. Transplant shock can also set a plant back. I've found with experimentation that the worst time to transplant a rose is right after the Spring flush. Much better to lop off the buds and transplant the rose before it blooms.
" Sometimes, for what ever reason, a rose just isn't a good one." - This is SO TRUE! I got a dud Iceberg last year. It did bloom decently, despite being a breeding ground for black spot from the day it arrived to the day the first frost put it into dormancy. Its canes were thin and limpy and its leaves were scarce. I was sooo disappointed because I had heard nothing but great reviews from people all over the country. I contacted the nursery that sold me the rose (Heirloom roses) and the replacement they sent already looks so much better than the dud! Hopefully it won't breed black spot like the last one did. If it does then I'm not trying again. Try contacting the nursery you bought Midas Touch from and ask them if they'll replace it since it's "failed to thrive".
One more thought: do you feed your roses? Maybe Midas Touch needs more nutrients than the other roses and doesn't compete well with them. How much space does it have? My Midas Touch is doing wonderfully and it's only a year old. It isn't very large yet, but it is about the size of my other one-year-old roses. It's own root also, if that makes a difference, with plenty of space to soak up nutrients.
Pull the weeds and give it several inches of mulch. Weeds take water that the rose could be using. Mulch holds in moisture and cools the roots. The rose will be all the better for that, especially in hot hot hot Riverside. You will get many many more flowers.
Like Michael, on my first prune of the season I tend to err on the side of caution and leave some of those inner tan canes. I always have to go back through later on in the season and do a tune up pruning anyway. So if I see that that growth isn't doing anything at that time I'll take it off when I do my second prune.
That might be worth a try but make sure your drain holes are open in your pot. Also do you know about the right way to pot a plant? Here is something worth reading.....Container drainage
Hi
Thanks for the info. I may have both because sometimes I saw raised soil winding through my yard and when I dug, I found tunnels, normally leading to compost hole. That makes me think that whatever it is, it is looking for worms that is eating the compost. I tried the mole bombs but it is not doing any good. I did try to follow the tunnels but they kinda dip so deep that I gave up. I know that when the roses start not to look too happy and have yellow leaves, i have to dig around for these tunnels. I have not seen any mole hills yet ( didnt know such thing exists except in the old saying..he he) On most days however, I saw holes dug right under the roots of my annuals. Every morning I have to make a run just to cover these holes and salvage the plants before going to work.Do you think the tunnels and the holes are done by moles? The holes are normally about 6" in diameter.
@fduk: A question on nematodes, I guess this is the good kind, not the one I already have in my soil. I dont know what kind of grubs I have. I have St Augustine grass so my guess is that they are the ones that eat my grass as well. So do you think the nematodes that you use will work on these grubs?
Thanks
Oh, I should have been clearer! Yes, completely different nematodes - it's a massive, massive group, something like a million different species, I believe.
They all have their different niches, and one that parasitises grubs is NOT going to cause damage to your plants. They naturally occur in the soil, except not necessarily in the quantities required to wipe out an infestation. It's like introducing ladybirds to a greenhouse to control aphids, except, of course, everybody loves ladybirds, and most people have only heard of nematodes as those things that kill your plants!
So, at a guess, (are you in Florida?) if the grubs are eating Augustine grass roots, they are most likely japanese beetle, may/june bugs or some form of chafer.
There's not really any other way to approach it, except to identify what kind of grub, and then order the nematodes specific to that species. I guess you might be able to get a broad spectrum mixed pack for your area? The ones I use for the vine weevil are called Steinernema kraussi, and they are specifically predatory to vine weevil, so they wouldn't do you any good, I'm afraid.
If you've seen some adults, that would help with identifying them, or you could dig around till you find some grubs to compare with pictures on the internet. Or you could take a punt on the ones that are most common to your area, and treat for those and see if it makes a difference. The bad thing about that would be wasted money, but the good thing is that you can't hurt your plants by treating them - if there aren't any of their prey species available, the nematodes just die.
I hope this helps - I'm not really a bug expert. I believe from reading other forum member's post, that in addition to nematodes, there's a bacterial product called Milky Spore for controlling japanese beetle, and if all else fails, I think there's a pesticide called merit?
Roses are highly susceptible to herbicide damage including the broadleaf insecticides that are sprayed on lawns. A little overspray would produce distorted growth, which hasn't had time to appear yet. A thorough wetting such as might cause burn from the fertilizer ingredient could kill them with herbicide.
But as for the pictured damage, I'll return to my theory that she may have overdone soil prep and provided excess nutrients. It's a common mistake with rose newbies. If this is the case and ample water has flushed the soil, then the new growth should be OK.
Plants can't use fertilizer until they have a good amount of green foliage open. Since available nitrogen is transient in the soil, it can be wasted if applied too early. If you just have red shoots now, you can apply organic fertilizer, but I would wait a couple of weeks to apply manufactured fertilizer.
Beautiful garden. Thank you for sharing.
Such beauty! You have worked hard and they are lovely.