22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
24" size best with very bushy, compact growers--maybe something like 'Gourmet Popcorn'. A 24" standard with a big HT like 'Memorial Day' ends up looking like a grafted bush that's been planted too high. HTs in general look bad as standards, but they sell, so growers continue to offer them.
I have Stormy Weather it is in a prime spot but I am not to thrilled with this one, maybe this will the year for it but it is very stiff, tons of thorns and no rebloom. It is puting on some mass this year so maybe it will improve
Here's another update: The biggest of the three Purple Splashes that I planted last year is growing LIKE CRAZY. Seriously, its branches started to really spread a couple weeks ago, and it's now winding its way through the chain link fence I planted it next to. The second biggest is doing fine, but its branches aren't nearly as long as the biggest one--yet. And, of course, the third one...well, it died. :(
I'll take and post pics soon.
If you are talking about using Grub X or Milky Spore I don't think it would be a problem in a pot. Just read the directions very carefully and don't use too much. Because of the nature of pots things get flushed through quickly so it shouldn't be any problem.
"Yet the red roses were identical to the other greener stems & gorgeous.">>>>Those were the branches that I said I believe were basil branches, so no; that's not the problem I was referring to. It was the breakable, soft pink growth at the bottom of the bush next to the bush on the ground.
If they are grafted roses and the graft is buried below ground then it is possible these are the correct variety and not root stock coming up. Usually root stock will come up a bit of a distance from the bud union but good new basal breaks from the graft will be closer in to the bud union. Being red or whitish is normal. They haven't had enough light yet to turn green. Once they get bigger, more mature and get more sun they will green up. The only way to know for sure if those new shoots are from the graft is to dig around them and see where they are coming from, above or below the graft. It would be a terrible shame to take off perfectly good new canes on the chance that they are root stock. Check first!
Sounds like tree roots--HTs are no match for maple tree roots, so I either have to dig up the HT and replant, or plant a vigorous once bloomer like Felcite Parmentier.
What makes crabgrass well known is that its ideal habitat is a lawn that has been frequently mowed--someone who does this is likely to be a very good customer at the lawn and garden store. Plus the fact that you can sell effective techniques for eradication.
Kate is correct. Also BS can't easily spread if there is no rain at all or only a daytime shower that dries completely within several hours. However, here we have moderate temperatures all summer and usually, frequent periods of prolonged wetting. Here, BS is relentless.
The conazole fungicides like Bayer Disease Control are able to kill the fungus inside the leaf. Therefore, if you scout twice a week, you can wait until small spots appear before spraying. The leaf can be saved if you spray within 10 days of germination or within a few days of spots becoming visible.
So spraying every two weeks is routine in the worst areas, but elsewhere, you can get good control with less spraying than that.
The conazole fungicides are not widely distributed but are available online.
Good luck, warpig.
I heard that in order for BS to form, the leaves have to be wet for 8 hours or so. We've had almost constant rain (sorry Cali folks, I wish I could send it to you) so the conditions are ripe for BS. I also scale back spraying in the hotter, drier months.
When I read your title Sara I thought you had discovered the rose HOE. Lol! I absolutely love that rose. I did love reading your post also. This is the most awesome time of year. The first few days we get to work outside after a long winter is so awesome it just brings us back to life. My sweet grandson also helps me outside. He was helping me pot up some pots with annuals and last for a few minutes then he's ready to move on. I think you will find lots of people on here with your same sentiment about working outside in such perfect weather. Hope everyone has an awesome spring!!!
Kentucky---I lost 2 Louise Estes, 1 Gemini, 1 Lady of the Dawn and 1 Shenandoah. My oldest Louise Estes I had to take all the way to the bud union but have 4 good looking basil breaks coming on it. Both my Brinessa's had to come all the way back along with both Let Freedom Ring and my beautiful bush of Tropicana. They all have good looking basil's on all of them Gemini frustrated me. One bush totally died and the bush right next to the dead one only lost 1 cane out of 5. Took those 4 canes down to 24" and it looks great now. Most of my grafted, established mini's took a hit but nothing really bad. My established grafted miniflora's were hit and miss. Whirlaway lost 2 out of 7 big canes. Then my 7 yr old Tiffany Lynn had to come all the way back but has several basil breaks coming. Dr John Dickman had to come all the way back and only has 1 basil break coming.
But ya know, I'm learning to deal with the weather. My roses are a hobby ( that I take very seriously ) but they are just that. A hobby. They are NOT a life and death situation by any stretch of the imagination. My time in Vietnam years ago taught me what life and death situations were. I might get a little frustrated with my hobby sometimes but I can sit back and smile and say, "what the squat. I'm still here in pretty good shape. I'll just replant and see what happens."
As Ingrid said, tamp it down firmly with your foot all the way around the plant. It should not be rocking. That's a sign that the soil is loose or there are air pockets and that's bad. After tamping it down water it in and then put more soil on the top and tamp again. Don't worry about putting some soil up the canes. They'll be fine. When I bury my grafts I bury the first couple of inches of canes all the time. You have to in order to get the graft down low enough to protect it. They survive. Stake it so the wind can not rock it until it grows more roots and firms up in the soil.
If you are in the eastern half of the US (it's helpful to tell us where you garden), the hard winter probably damaged canes and a late freeze damaged any new growth that was starting. So you probably need to prune more severely.. Top growth should be actively growing (russet or pale green leaves, still folded). Small, normal-green leaves at the top indicate blind (non-flowering) shoots. Canes with green bark should show a white, not brown, center when clipped. Brown pith indicates winter damage. (Tan pith is OK on older canes.) Don't hesitate to cut out damaged wood.
Thank you Michael. I live in Oklahoma and I am in Zone 6b. We had a relatively mild winter here, but did have a few days recently that it got below freezing overnight. I think pruning them more severely would be helpful, that's what I'm going to do.
You could also look at 'Perfume Delight'. It is a slightly brighter, clearer pink. The leaves are very large, leathery, and abundant, with matte texture. IIRC, flower necks tend to be shorter than PP's. PD has tidier hybrid tea form, but fewer petals usually than PP. The confused form in the first picture is more like PP. Both are very vigorous, productive, and fragrant.
Glad someone mentioned toxoplasmosis! As a pregnant gardener, a neighborhood cat using my yard would outright stop me from any gardening for at least a season. It is not something to be messed around with and I'd be furious if I was banned from my garden because you can't be bothered to keep your pet off my property!
If the cats are wild, trap them and send them to SPCA. If they're your neighbors, trap them and give them to the animal control cops, the owners have to pay a fee to get their cats back, I think it's $45 each for my town. It's easy to say, hard to do. One of my neighbors cat always in my yard, they're good people, so the cat just becomes part of my garden......still not a cat person.