22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Sounds like tree roots--HTs are no match for maple tree roots, so I either have to dig up the HT and replant, or plant a vigorous once bloomer like Felcite Parmentier.
What makes crabgrass well known is that its ideal habitat is a lawn that has been frequently mowed--someone who does this is likely to be a very good customer at the lawn and garden store. Plus the fact that you can sell effective techniques for eradication.
Kate is correct. Also BS can't easily spread if there is no rain at all or only a daytime shower that dries completely within several hours. However, here we have moderate temperatures all summer and usually, frequent periods of prolonged wetting. Here, BS is relentless.
The conazole fungicides like Bayer Disease Control are able to kill the fungus inside the leaf. Therefore, if you scout twice a week, you can wait until small spots appear before spraying. The leaf can be saved if you spray within 10 days of germination or within a few days of spots becoming visible.
So spraying every two weeks is routine in the worst areas, but elsewhere, you can get good control with less spraying than that.
The conazole fungicides are not widely distributed but are available online.
Good luck, warpig.
I heard that in order for BS to form, the leaves have to be wet for 8 hours or so. We've had almost constant rain (sorry Cali folks, I wish I could send it to you) so the conditions are ripe for BS. I also scale back spraying in the hotter, drier months.
When I read your title Sara I thought you had discovered the rose HOE. Lol! I absolutely love that rose. I did love reading your post also. This is the most awesome time of year. The first few days we get to work outside after a long winter is so awesome it just brings us back to life. My sweet grandson also helps me outside. He was helping me pot up some pots with annuals and last for a few minutes then he's ready to move on. I think you will find lots of people on here with your same sentiment about working outside in such perfect weather. Hope everyone has an awesome spring!!!
Kentucky---I lost 2 Louise Estes, 1 Gemini, 1 Lady of the Dawn and 1 Shenandoah. My oldest Louise Estes I had to take all the way to the bud union but have 4 good looking basil breaks coming on it. Both my Brinessa's had to come all the way back along with both Let Freedom Ring and my beautiful bush of Tropicana. They all have good looking basil's on all of them Gemini frustrated me. One bush totally died and the bush right next to the dead one only lost 1 cane out of 5. Took those 4 canes down to 24" and it looks great now. Most of my grafted, established mini's took a hit but nothing really bad. My established grafted miniflora's were hit and miss. Whirlaway lost 2 out of 7 big canes. Then my 7 yr old Tiffany Lynn had to come all the way back but has several basil breaks coming. Dr John Dickman had to come all the way back and only has 1 basil break coming.
But ya know, I'm learning to deal with the weather. My roses are a hobby ( that I take very seriously ) but they are just that. A hobby. They are NOT a life and death situation by any stretch of the imagination. My time in Vietnam years ago taught me what life and death situations were. I might get a little frustrated with my hobby sometimes but I can sit back and smile and say, "what the squat. I'm still here in pretty good shape. I'll just replant and see what happens."
As Ingrid said, tamp it down firmly with your foot all the way around the plant. It should not be rocking. That's a sign that the soil is loose or there are air pockets and that's bad. After tamping it down water it in and then put more soil on the top and tamp again. Don't worry about putting some soil up the canes. They'll be fine. When I bury my grafts I bury the first couple of inches of canes all the time. You have to in order to get the graft down low enough to protect it. They survive. Stake it so the wind can not rock it until it grows more roots and firms up in the soil.
If you are in the eastern half of the US (it's helpful to tell us where you garden), the hard winter probably damaged canes and a late freeze damaged any new growth that was starting. So you probably need to prune more severely.. Top growth should be actively growing (russet or pale green leaves, still folded). Small, normal-green leaves at the top indicate blind (non-flowering) shoots. Canes with green bark should show a white, not brown, center when clipped. Brown pith indicates winter damage. (Tan pith is OK on older canes.) Don't hesitate to cut out damaged wood.
Thank you Michael. I live in Oklahoma and I am in Zone 6b. We had a relatively mild winter here, but did have a few days recently that it got below freezing overnight. I think pruning them more severely would be helpful, that's what I'm going to do.
You could also look at 'Perfume Delight'. It is a slightly brighter, clearer pink. The leaves are very large, leathery, and abundant, with matte texture. IIRC, flower necks tend to be shorter than PP's. PD has tidier hybrid tea form, but fewer petals usually than PP. The confused form in the first picture is more like PP. Both are very vigorous, productive, and fragrant.
You've gotten wonderful encouragement from everyone so far to follow your heart, and ultimately that's what a garden should be. I thought I'd throw in a more prosaic word of caution about gypsophilia from my mom's experience as food for thought. She planted the perennial baby's breath (or maybe mixed in with the annual) in a wild birdbath area in full sun. There was a wonderful mix of varied perennials and annuals when she started, and she thought the gypsophilia would add some height and wispiness. Turns out the gypsophilia was an absolute thug in her zone 5 Michigan garden, and it totally overpowered the other well-established plants already there and well suited for that spot. I tried to help her get rid of it or at least tame it, but by that point the gypsophilia had put down roots clear beyond where I could dig, and I'm sure it's still there to this day.
Now none of this says you can't have that combination, but I might suggest putting the gypsophilia in a pot behind the roses, and watching it very carefully to deadhead before it goes to seed. That way you could move the plant if it gets scruffy or out of control, and still enjoy the effect. Particularly a florist's rose may be less able to fight off a thuggish perennial, even in your more temperate zone than mine.
Just my two cents.
Cynthia
Thank-you so much to all of you. This is all really helpful advice! Not sure what house we're getting yet (or what state or kind of Garden we'll get) Hopefully we can have Christmas in the new house and I can get it ready for the January-March planting time.
Good to know about gysophilla, I might keep it potted and see how it goes, I've *ahem* got it on my windowsill in a plant pot, so I'll just keep it in that when it goes outside. There's no holes in the bottom so no chance of it rooting through the bottom.
I like Grand Prix for it's aesthetic rather than any specific reason of heights, etc. If there are other roses that grow in that colour (the size is quite nice too) then I will definitely go for something more suited to a garden and climate. I'm happy to spend some time with my rose looking after it, but as a new gardener, I would rather have something a little easier to deal with!
I'll keep the note about south-facing garden, but I don't think it's a priority for what we're looking for in a house. I think I'll have to work with the garden attached to the house we want, rather than the other way around!
I've recently been getting into Pintrest, so I might use that as a place for garden ideas as well as the other stuff I've been using it for. My real loves fit into a nice colour palette of black and red. So far I've thought of dark red roses, some black grasses I believe? Gladioli blackjacks (currently growing and spare bulbs) and maybe the black hollyhocks. And definitely some of what's growing in the people opposite's garden which I will photograph and identify at some point!
I also like the idea of doing an area with edible plants, definitely raspberry (which I've been told is a wild weed so I may need to contain it) and then maybe strawberries, tomatoes, avocado (if I can ever get it to grow!) and maybe a small herb section as well?
My friend has a mini-greenhouse as well, so I might get one of those!
As far as the formality goes, I was thinking originally I would just do haphazard, anarchistic gardening, but I got told on here that planning was a good idea! Turns out I already had more of an idea than I thought I did :)
I'm sure I'll have loads more questions when I get to actual garden-ownership and planting, and I'll be back :D
Thanks again to everyone for all the help so far!
OK Michael, you're forgiven for giving us the slip, but the real question is - did you back Duke in your bracket from the beginning or get swayed by all the press about Kentucky? A good NC fella like you needs to trust the hometown boys. When I do a bracket, I routinely put UNC or Duke at or near the top (strong family connections all over NC), and history has shown those are pretty good bets.
Cynthia
I grew her for one season, but the one I had had dieback due to a really late planting for a bareroot and died! I want her again!
Her few blooms were so great, lol. They made an impression on me. I haven't ever heard anything about her since that one year from J&P. I kept checking for her the next year and the next, but no luck :(
The blooms look like Dr Huey. They are very beautiful when in bloom, but it only blooms for a short time in the spring. Then it throws LONG arching canes for the rest of the season. Plus Dr. Huey will get Black Spot fungus very easily.
Dr. Huey is the root (rootstalk). If the grafted rose is still alive you will see canes growing from above the larger knobby area at the base of the plant. Everything growing from below that knob is Dr. Huey sprouts growing from the Dr Huey rootstalk. Dr. Huey is also capable of growing an adjacent "crown" for another bush.
You do not want to save Dr. Huey! It may already have hogged nutrients and water to the death of the original grafted part. The long canes with the short lateral growth featuring red blooms can be marked with yarn if you want to wait until bloom is done. Then they can be cut back to 12-16 inches to see what is going on at the base. That will leave enough length to try to pull off as Seil described above. You may find it is now completely Dr. Huey with no live canes of the original grafted hybrid. In that case dig it out. And watch each year for a rose sprouting up where there was none. It's Dr. Huey asserting itself from a piece of root that traveled.
"Yet the red roses were identical to the other greener stems & gorgeous.">>>>Those were the branches that I said I believe were basil branches, so no; that's not the problem I was referring to. It was the breakable, soft pink growth at the bottom of the bush next to the bush on the ground.
If they are grafted roses and the graft is buried below ground then it is possible these are the correct variety and not root stock coming up. Usually root stock will come up a bit of a distance from the bud union but good new basal breaks from the graft will be closer in to the bud union. Being red or whitish is normal. They haven't had enough light yet to turn green. Once they get bigger, more mature and get more sun they will green up. The only way to know for sure if those new shoots are from the graft is to dig around them and see where they are coming from, above or below the graft. It would be a terrible shame to take off perfectly good new canes on the chance that they are root stock. Check first!