22,151 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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martinca_gw

They seem to be gone...over a dozen just flew away. But! I'm keeping my eye on this ewwww- ugly earwig and letting him have his way with this bloom to see if he is eating unseen pests or will destroy my flower. Can't see him here, but the dark specks are probably his " debris". Blagh.

    Bookmark     April 12, 2015 at 8:49AM
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seil zone 6b MI

I hate earwigs! We get them with a vengeance here by the lake. I shake them out of the roses because I do think they eat the petals.

    Bookmark     April 12, 2015 at 9:16AM
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bayarea_girl(NorCA 9)

If you like dark red, go with Black Magic. I think it is a great rose to have in a garden. I don't have this rose yet in my garden but I remember seeing it a few years ago as a tree rose and it is beautiful.

Helen

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 8:56PM Thanked by jasminerose4u, California
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jasminerose4u, California(9b)

I definitely like dark red. My friend's Black Magic has very small blooms, but perhaps it's not mature. It's about 3.5 feet tall and in a pot. I think it will take off nicely once planted in the ground. The Colorific is beautiful, but I will admire it in my friend's garden. Thanks for helping me decide. These decisions are tough, but part of the fun of rose growing :)

    Bookmark     April 12, 2015 at 7:08AM
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steve_gw

Supposed to pick up a Neil Diamond next Sat from a society rose sale, looking forward to it, but not expecting too much after getting my Austin order!!

    Bookmark     April 10, 2015 at 5:16PM
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flexwebber

THANKS!

    Bookmark     April 12, 2015 at 5:24AM
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comtessedelacouche (10b S.Australia: hotdryMedclimate)

Hi Hello! I noticed you didn't get a huge response to your Q, and wondered if you might have better luck if you reposted it on the Antique Roses Forum. There's often a wider choice amongst the older roses when disease-resistance, easy-care and great perfume are all important factors.

Your combination of specifications is actually a little tricky, which may be part of the reason for a shortage of suggestions here. For example, good/reliable repeat bloom PLUS rosehips is not very common - off the top of my head, I can't actually think of ANY climbers or ramblers that do this; and hips often don't set reliably anyway unless there's a chilly winter - being in Australia, I'm not sure if you get that in Alabama. However, there ARE a number of other options for attracting/helping wildlife, so long as you don't use insecticides and other poisons; for example, in Spring some birds may stop by for a tasty snack of aphids, and bees will enjoy single and semi-double flower-types - the kind where you can see the stamens in the middle. Birds will sometimes nest in a big thick rambler, too.

You don't state the size (height and width) of your privacy fence/the area you want this rose to cover - I would suggest adding that, plus the maximum depth out from the fence that's available in this spot. Also, for folks like me (and there are a few of us), if you could give more detailed info on your climate, that would be a great help - your US Zone if you know it, average Summer and Winter temperature range and some indication of when/how much humidity and rain you get (I'm thinking Alabama = fairly steamy!??).

So, my advice is, try posting again on the ARF, including those extra details, and I'm sure the combined brains of all the crazy rose nuts/experts on there will be able to come up with a great solution for you - perhaps with just a teeny bit of compromise on your full list of specs. They'll also be able to help with any queries you may have about when and where to buy, planting and maintenance of your new baby! Good luck!

Comtesse :¬)

    Bookmark     April 1, 2015 at 10:49PM
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hello459

Great, thank you for the suggestions and I'll definitely post in the ARF!

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 8:52PM
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seil zone 6b MI

Every variety has it's own internal bloom cycle timing so if they're the same variety they would probably have about the same bloom time. That may vary some by location but would probably be fairly close in most cases. If they're purchased in approximately the same size and condition and planted at the same time it stands to reason they would bloom around the same time. If they were purchased at different times they may not sync until the next spring when they would be starting out in the same conditions.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 3:40PM
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kublakan

Good point Seil. In my garden I've had Belinda's Dream in various areas all planted on different years and as soon as I say blooms in one, all the others bloomed at the same time. Today I was walking around the yard and I'm taken aback by a red rose. When I look, it's Alec's Red. I keep tending to the garden when I come across another impressive red. Low and behold, the red rose is also Alec's red. I find this fascinating. My wonder, and the reason I posted this, is to learn whether others have had the same experience.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 6:26PM
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seil zone 6b MI

I only get your kind of heat for about 2 weeks in late July/early August and Dick Clark can hold his own. While more fragile roses like Elle dissolved into so much limp tissue Dick's more substantial petals didn't wilt a bit.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 4:06PM
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jasminerose4u, California(9b)

Thanks, Siel.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 4:43PM
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seil zone 6b MI

I've noticed that a lot of the newer roses aren't showing up on there too. Or if they do there are no photos. Yet if I Google it photos show up on other places. I'm not sure what the reason is either.

If you have a new release rose please go and put some photos on there for the rest of us. If it's not there you can go to the "missing plant" tab and add it. I agree with Mariannese, it's important!

1 Like    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 3:56PM
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Kippy(SoCal zone 10. Sunset Zone 24)

Since you said you are in SoCal, Otto and Sons in Fillmore (take I5 to the 126 west or 101 to 126 east) has 157 instock and in 5g pots. They are having rose days in a couple of weeks (the post card is around here somewhere) they are pricey, $45 but they often have some kind of deal and the DA pots are pretty nice to reuse. This weekend is Tomatomania

You might want to bring a bigger car/truck....it can be very hard to leave with just one plant. (they have Butterscotch Staked too)

Otto Rose Days

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 8:39AM Thanked by bungalowlove
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bungalowlove

OH Wow! Must see if I can get there. That'd be great!! Thanks so much Kippy!

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 12:30PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

No, I was asking how to reproduce the concentration using measuring spoons from the kitchen.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 9:44AM
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henry_kuska

From their data it appears that one has to be very careful not to add too much of the 2 chemicals. This link contains a Molar solution concentration calculator:

http://www.physiologyweb.com/calculators/molar_solution_concentration_calculator.html

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 11:20AM
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wirosarian_z4b_WI

I have a big bone to pick with soil tests when they tell you the "soil type" of your soil in a residential setting. A few years back I lived on the eastern side of my state & now I live on the western side of my state. At both locations I tested my soils & received a report that said I had "loam" with very similar compositions. Yet when I dug fence post holes at each location I found 2 extremely different soils. My eastern garden had sticky red clay starting 12' down & that lawn had terrible poor drainage problems in low areas after a rainy spell, sometimes standing water for several days. Post holes in my western garden revealed pure sand at 12" & deeper. No matter how hard it rains here, I & the neighbors never have standing water 30 minutes after the rain stops. The reason for this is that most homes have truck loads of black loam hauled in so your house can have a nice lawn. This is frequently the soil that home owners are testing for their gardens. I strongly encourage you to dig some deeper holes to determine what's underneath the top 4-8" of your lawn. These deeper soils will have an impact on water, organic & nutrient holding capacities and your pH.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 9:01AM
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Gary(USDA ZONE = 9b SUNSET ZONE = 18 (Riverside, CA, USA))

Hi wirosarian_z4b_WI,

I removed the top several inches of soil so the sample I sent to the lab was from 4-8 inches deep.

When I bought my condo new in 1972, the flower bed (in the common-area) was 25 feet long by 2 feet wide (50 square feet). Over the years, I've expanded the flower bed into the common-area lawn so the flower bed is now 25 feet long by 18 feet wide (almost 400 square feet).

The condo board said it's OK that the expanded garden is in the common-area but I'm responsible for maintaining the garden (i.e., prune and fertilize the shrubs, weed the garden, etc). The watering is still done by the common-area sprinklers.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 9:51AM
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bungalowlove

I am in the Inland Empire (CA), very, very hot summers! I have a 9 foot patio pergola I would like to train it up. I found the rose available @ RRR and they state it will grow 8-10 feet. I think this might work! Thanks for the inspiration!

https://www.roguevalleyroses.com/rose/butterscotch-cl

2 Likes    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 8:54AM
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Kippy(SoCal zone 10. Sunset Zone 24)

Check out my reply on your bareroots thread

1 Like    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 9:20AM
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seil zone 6b MI

I agree with Diane. If the plant is growing already bare rooting it will send it into terrible shock it might not be able to recover from. When it's dormant it doesn't need all the roots to keep it fed and watered so you can go ahead and bare root it and it should be fine.

    Bookmark     April 10, 2015 at 12:20PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

It's hard to get a good rootball unless you are transplanting from a pot. Therefore, if roses are leafed out, it's a good idea to remove foliage in proportion to the fine roots that are disturbed or lost--maybe half or two thirds. Since not much water is lost from canes, and canes have stored plant energy, I think it's better to prune moderately and then pick off leaves rather than prune the canes very severely. I pick them off from the top down because new growth will come from the upper rather than lower canes. If the rose wilts, shade it with a lawn chair for a while.

At times, I have lost the rootball entirely and transplanted bare root after removing all the foliage. It worked OK. However, it's preferable to transplant during dormancy.

With really large rose plants, bare-rooting is really the only option.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 7:11AM
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Buford_NE_GA_7A(7B)

I used to grind up the pellets in my blender, but it got to be too much. Just soak them in water and then they will soften and you can mix in with the potting soil. Just don't add too much or get it too close to the canes. Eve with the meal, it can tend to clump together and you may have to break it up.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 5:09AM
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kublakan

I tried this for years with inconclusive results. I used to mix in a cup of alfalfa pellets in every seven gallon pot. To answer Jim's question, as you water your potted roses, the pellets dissolve rather quickly. If you were to dig through the pot after a few weeks you would find pockets of dissolved alfalfa. The problem I found was that it tended to create pockets where things just rotted, and that didn't help the roots. I think that what ever beneficial chemical reaction occurs with the use of alfalfa, it must take place during the fermentation process. Unfortunately, the fermentation process is not good for plants.

For basal breaks I would also try diluting SolPoMag/Epson Salts.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2015 at 5:27AM
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seil zone 6b MI

Have you pruned off the dead canes above the green yet? Do that if you haven't. Sometimes pruning will stimulate them. After that you just have to wait. I know that's hard, lol, but it really hasn't been all that warm yet and some roses just need a really good extended period of time of warm weather to jump start them. Snowfire and Pope John Paul II were both always slow to start in the spring and wouldn't budge until it was well into the 70s for some time.

    Bookmark     April 10, 2015 at 12:41PM
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KarenPA_6b

I have pruned some off but not all the way down to the green parts. Thank you for your advice. I will do that tomrorrow. I hope my Francis Meilland makes it because I really like this rose.

    Bookmark     April 10, 2015 at 7:27PM
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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

I planted TA here at our home in Central Pa last year but it did not do to well...

I'm going update my thread I started last year on how it does this year... I will spray greencure on its leaves this year if it starts showing signs of PM because it got bad last year. BUT it will NOT get sprayed with anything for BS besides when sprayed with greencure for the PM if needed...

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1652600/thomas-affleck?n=36

    Bookmark     April 10, 2015 at 7:10PM
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