6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Do you have a space in your flower beds on the south side, near the house to set up a cold frame? I used this to start flowers for years before I got my lights and greenhouse.

Near the house because it is warmer and on the south side because it is the sunniest. A simple cold frame costs only a pittance. You need 2 poles or something as long as your cold frame that you can staple plastic to. Next you need some heavy guage clear plastic and something to use for hoops. Heavy guage wire or dry cleaners hangers unwound and bent in a hoop shape. Look around and see what you can find--they only have to sit 2 to 2 1/2 feet high. You also need a couple of stones or bricks.

Cut a piece of plastic --doubled is best--wide enough to go over the frame with room to staple your poles on each side. Then gather together the ends and stretch it out past the last hoop. Put a brick or stone on this to hold it.To open it a little bring the end on the least windy side upto the first hoop and use a clothespin or clip to hold it there. On days you want it open more you can roll it up on the front pole. You will find you have to open it a little or a lot every day even couldy days. In a small space like that it doesn't take much for it to get too hot from just the sun. I opened mine around 9AM in the morning and closed it around 4 PM to let some heat build up

Set it up a week or 2 early to warm the ground. I suggest you plant your seed right in the soil. They take less care that way and do better than planted in pots. Make sure your plants don't touch the plastic or they'll freeze. The cold frame will protect your plants from a couple of degrees of frost. If you know it's getting colder than that throw a blanket or something over it

When transplanting these dig them out getting as much root as possible. Have your hole ready and fill it with water and let it soak into the ground, then plant your plant. Place an upside down colored--not clear pot over the newly planted plant. Place a clump of dirt or stone on top to keep it from blowing away. Leave it for 2 or 3 days. This allows the roots to get moisture right away and shades the plant so it can spread it's roots without coping with a too hot sun. When you take off the pot you'll notice a ring of moisture right around the plant and your plant is standing up and not wilting.

You can also use milk jugs or large pop bottles with the bottom cut out Warm the soil where you want them to grow like above. Plant 2 or 3 seeds and press the bottle into the soil over the seeds. Remove the lid to allow excess heat to escape. Check for water every couple of days and wait for them to grow. Again don't let the plant touch the sides. These are like little clouches and work great.

So there you have it. Hope it works for you

You have plenty of time if you still want to try the wintersowing method. Technically it's spring sowing from equinox onwards. I keep sowing right through the first week of May, sowing tender annuals last. Come on over to the forum, we're friendly. Several people offer seeds for SASBE to wintersowing newbies. Please look at the forum FAQs first. There's a ton of information there, thanks to Trudi. There is a section specifically on spring sowing if you scroll down.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wintersowing FAQ

Yazan,
Echinacea respond very well to wintersowing. If you plant the seeds into any container with drainage holes and decent quality growing medium, then cover with a clear plastic cover (seran wrap), you can put the container right outside and let the seeds sprout naturally as they would have if they had fallen on the ground. You also need to poke a few holes in the cover to allow for air exchange and for the rain and snow to provide moisture. Once they sprout, you can remove the cover. Echinacea should be able to tolerate most weather that comes its way. Or you could throw a cover over the seedlings when frost threatens. Check out the wintersowing FAQ. Good luck. Echinacea are great plants, and they will multiply for you so you'll never be without them.

Martha

Hi Martha,

Thanks for the help, I think I have enough seeds to try both Daves method and yours, i'll see which one does better,

Thanks Yazan

My babies have only just started on their real leaves, so no rosettes or anything yet...but the pic might help you with earlier identification. The sprout leaves are fat triangles, and the little real leaves have hairy looking edges.

Thanks so much, SaraElise!

I do have a couple things that *might* turn out to be winners. I'm going to keep watering and see what happens.

Here's another pic:

Digdirt, hit it. Plants vary.
I don't consider it "stunting". Plants will wait until the right temperature/light cycle to take off, as long as they are not damaged.
Or just search "cosmos cold tolerance" (example) for each of your plants. One site says cosmos will tolerate 35 degrees.
The link below doesn't really pertain, but you can find similar that might. A lot of studies have been produced on the matter.
Bob

Here is a link that might be useful: frost tolerance

Most plants are surprisingly hardy at the early stages as long as they are not left too cold for extended amounts of time. If you are worried about the temperature and already planted just cover the little guys with a sheet or some good plastic overnight. The weather should be warming up pretty fast, and if not just blame that darn groundhog!

Agree that unfortunately most store-bought produce are hybrids so seeds from them will not breed true and in some cases are sterile and will not breed at all. If it grows it will not produce the same type of melon but will revert back to one of its parents or some crossed variety that may or may not be edible.

If you know the name of the variety you can determine if it is a hybrid or not but there are very few non-hybrid melons.

It is up to you. If you want to try and see what happens and have the time and garden space, fine. Otherwise, if you really want melons you need to buy seeds.

Dave

The other posters are right that they won't necessarily work out, but no harm in trying. Just start them in a little pot out of the way and see what happens.

Pacojam,
Currently all my seeds except one variety are germinating. The 11 flats are outside. Temperature varies between 38 and 76 degrees.
What depth are you planting the seeds and what type of seeds?
How dry is your air?

I tried plantin from Landreth below Hollyhock (Indian Spring variety), Foxglover (digitalis), Butterfly weed, Bee Balm. Black Eyed susans

From Burpee I tried agastache and Bee Balm (2 sources), and Lavender.

None of these say plant directly in Ground since some do not transplant well at all. So I avoided these. I kept them waered well (moist), and the hollyhock is only one that came up, but then shriveled and died. I plan to try this again soon. Ill use the styrofoam approach with a cover and new potting soil from Miracle grow this time.
Thanks for everyone kind guidance here. I really appreicate everyones input. I teavel nearly 100% in my job making it hard (due to sheer exhaustion) to get on here to see who posted any feedback. i love this forum

If you can't lower the light more (you can always use string or small chain) then raise the seedlings to it. 8" is still way to far away. Sit the trays on boxes or books or something.

Dave

Young plants do not need fertilizer. Fertilizing seedlings will often set the back. I would say the ones in with your wifes plants probably have the right amount of moisture to grow better. Those fiber pots are useless. They dry out and mold. I tend to sprout seeds in a shallow communal pot and transplant into disposable drinking cups when they are ready. My favorite communal pot is mushroom flats with holes in the bottom.

Your lights should be an no more than an inch above your plants for optimal light exposure. The plants should not touch the bulbs though. Either lower your lights or raise your pots by putting something under them